Giroussens – Where time stands still

04/06/2019

Giroussens is a town in the Midi-Pyrénées region of southern France, bordered by the Dadou River, near the city of Albi and 40km northeast of Toulouse. The romantic tranquility of Giroussens sometimes makes one feel as if time has stood still.

The town of Giroussens lies above the Agout valley between Lavaur, Graulhet and Saint-Sulpice-la-Pointe, coloured by golden colza (canola) fields in April and May or sunflower fields in full bloom in June and July.

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It is famous for its exquisite earthenware and ceramics, and the railway line that takes tourists from Saint-Lieux-lès-Lavaur to the famous Jardins des Martels botanical gardens. Giroussens is also a great stopover, with festivals throughout the spring and summer, antique shops and exhibitions, and ceramics making tutorials. The weather is also quite pleasant and cool in the middle of spring and summer, so many tourists come to relax and stroll around the town.

Where art and nature meet

Before coming here, although I was a bit skeptical about this small town, I still marked this place on my itinerary. More than expected, Giroussens in my eyes is a colorful and peaceful landscape painting, dotted with small red brick houses, blooming rapeseed fields on both sides of the road, the gentle Dadou River surrounding the town... Like the traditional Finnish Marimekko handkerchief, simple but indispensable, if you stop here, take the time to explore the simplicity of Giroussens.

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In the 16th century, the town was famous for its earthenware products and there were only 30 artisans in the town. By the 17th century, the traditional pottery making in Giroussens was flourishing. However, by the mid-18th century, earthenware products were gradually replaced by porcelain and silver. Over time, the kilns were destroyed and production officially ceased in the 19th century. Fortunately, ceramics including enameled cups and plates are still preserved in the museum of the neighboring city of Rabastens. Moreover, in 1991, the pottery making profession was revived thanks to the Giroussens Ceramic Art Association. “Maison de la Céramique Contemporaine Giroussens” is the place to recreate and introduce contemporary ceramic art with unique and attractive products.

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“Maison de la Céramique Contemporaine Giroussens”

“Maison de la Céramique Contemporaine Giroussens”

As a renaissance in the art world, annual exhibitions are also held from April to June (5th and 6th) every year in the town center, bringing unique and exclusive works of art for visitors to enjoy. Not only that, you can also buy tea sets, cups, saucers in soft pastel tones for your kitchen or vases, decorations with unique and non-repetitive motifs.

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After choosing some lovely cups as gifts, I cycled to the beautiful Jardins des Martels garden. The garden opened to visitors in 1994 with beautiful flower areas such as tulips, roses, magnolias, peonies, sunflowers... as well as a tropical greenhouse, lotus pond, bonsai display area. There are also farms raising rabbits, bears, goats, giraffes, sheep... looking like a miniature zoo. Standing in front of one of the most beautiful natural gardens in France, I was fascinated by the diverse changes of the plants here, creating a harmonious blend of colors that make the landscape even more vibrant. In addition, you can stop in the middle of the garden, sip a cup of tea and read a book, relax and enjoy the peaceful green space. In particular, the Jazz Night with the main white tone will take place on June 16 and the annual lotus festival held in early July will also be held at the Martelz garden. And it is impossible not to mention the traditional Japanese cultural exchange festival here with activities such as introducing tea ceremony, origami art, bringing Japanese cooking art into French cuisine. With many events held regularly every month during spring and summer, tourists will have the opportunity to visit the large Martels garden, as well as learn more about the history of the small town of Giroussens.

Khu vườn Jardins des Martels (Ảnh: Nguồn Communes)

Jardins des Martels garden (Photo: Source Communes)

Time stands still in the Tarn Valley

In addition to visiting famous destinations here, you can also choose sports activities such as the bicycle tour held on June 11 with two races of 60km and 90km. Besides, with the surrounding terrain of hills and valleys, you can also join trekking and fishing with the locals. Those will be special highlights for your journey.

Khung cảnh yên bình ở Giroussens (Ảnh: Nguồn Internet)

Peaceful scenery in Giroussens (Photo: Internet source)

As for me, after visiting the Martels garden, I decided to take the train from Martels to Saint-Lieux-lès-Lavaur. In the space of the only steam train preserved and dedicated to the Tarn valley, time seemed to slow down and the surrounding landscape gradually appeared more clearly as if you could touch them. Leaving the train station, I went to the Chocolate Art Museum to admire the chocolate sculptures, learn more about the history of cacao as well as the development of sculpture art using this special material by two painters and sculptors Madeleine Gautier (Paris), Marta Solsona (Barcelone).

Back in Giroussens, I visited the 13th-century church of Saint-Salvy, built in the Gothic style with pointed arches and decorated with colorful paintings along the walls and ceiling. Gothic is an architectural style that began to develop in the second half of the Middle Ages and can be found in churches, castles and ancient universities all over Western Europe.

Bên ngoài nhà hàng L’Échauguette

Outside L'Échauguette restaurant

A few steps from the church is the famous L'Échauguette restaurant with traditional French dishes. Situated in a beautiful location in the town, L'Échauguette restaurant (meaning the old fortress) was established in the 14th century. From the watchtower and garden of the restaurant, I can easily observe the whole town with the fields, the steam from the train in the distance and the Dadou river flowing around. Not only did the restaurant make me hesitate with the vast and poetic scenery, but it also captivated me with its excellent dishes and delicate presentation in the unique style of French cuisine such as salade gourmande (salad with smoked duck, baked apples...), foie gras, beef ragoût, duck with orange sauce, cherry clafoutis, tarte cakes...

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What could be more enjoyable than sipping some red wine, enjoying the French flavors and the melodious jazz music in a peaceful evening in the Tarn valley. For me, a day in Giroussens can bring a feeling of relaxation, peace, and erase all the worries in life. In a place where "time cannot reach", I can enjoy every poetic moment of the trip.

More information:

- Trip:

+ Vietnam – France:There are direct flights to Toulouse (France - Toulouse-Blagnac airport) with Vietnam Airlines, Air France or other airlines such as Turkish Airlines and Qatar Airways, with a transit time of about 2 or 3 hours depending on the airline.

+ Toulouse – Giroussens:You can go by train, bus or taxi.

Train:Toulouse (Toulouse Matabiau station) to Saint Sulpice/Les Cauquillous for 7-15 euros/way and taxi to Giroussens for 10 euros with a total time of about 40 minutes.

Bus:Toulouse (line 956 - 3 times/day) to Ambres and take a taxi to Giroussens for about 15 euros/way with a total time of 60 minutes.

- Hotel:Information about hotels or motels can be found on the website: www.airbnb.com, www.expedia.com or find a local house to stay in as a homestay.www.couchsurfing.org. You can save more information Le Pépil: Guest house – Gite rural et chamber d'hôtes and Le Pipil: Raynaud Jean-Paul for your trip.

Alternatively, you can stay in Toulouse or in Ambres, Lavaur, Saint Sulpice and visit Giroussens for the day… those are also suitable options for you.

- Sightseeing and dining:

+ Ceramic House:Ticket price 3 euros/person, open 10am-12pm; 2pm-6pm, except Monday.

+ Martels Gardens:Closed from December to March (winter), open 10am-6pm from May to August, other months from 1:30pm-6pm, ticket price from 5.20 - 8.20 euros/person.

Train from Saint-Lieux-lès-Lavaur to Martels Gardens: 7 euros/return ticket/person. You can check the train schedule at the Lavaur/Martels station.

+ Museum of Chocolat Art: ticket price 3.50 euro/person.

+ L'Échauguette:The restaurant is open for lunch Monday – Wednesday, lunch and dinner Friday – Sunday, set menu 12.50 – 30 euros/adult, 11 – 14 euros/child and à la carte 9 – 16 euros/dish.

You can enjoy desserts and cakes at the restaurant along with cocktails, coffee, beer… or at the cafes in the town center such as Bar Le Girou, Café Suquet.

- Travel:You can walk or rent a bicycle (regular, electric or children's bicycle) there.www.ouibike.netto see the fields, churches, castles… surrounding the town.

Le Bui Ngoc Chau
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