Giroussens – Where time stands still

The town of Giroussens, situated above the Agout valley between Lavaur, Graulhet, and Saint-Sulpice-la-Pointe, is adorned with vibrant yellow rapeseed fields in April-May or fields of blooming sunflowers in June-July.

Giroussens is famous for its exquisite earthenware and ceramics, as well as a tourist railway line from Saint-Lieux-lès-Lavaur to the renowned Jardins des Martels botanical garden. Furthermore, Giroussens is an ideal destination with festivals throughout the spring and summer, antique stalls, and exhibitions and pottery workshops. The weather is also quite pleasant, cool in mid-spring and summer, attracting many visitors who come to relax and explore the town.

Where art and nature meet

Before arriving, despite some skepticism about this small town, I still marked it on my itinerary. Beyond my expectations, Giroussens, in my eyes, was a colorful and peaceful landscape, dotted with small red brick houses, fields of blooming rapeseed flowers along the roads, and the gentle Dadou River flowing around the town… Like the traditional Finnish Marimekko handkerchief, simple yet indispensable, if you stop here, take the time to explore the tranquil charm of Giroussens.

In the 16th century, Giroussens was famous for its earthenware products, and the town had only about 30 artisans. By the 17th century, traditional pottery making in Giroussens was flourishing. However, by the mid-18th century, earthenware products were gradually replaced by porcelain and silverware. Over time, the kilns were destroyed and production officially ceased in the 19th century. Fortunately, pottery, including glazed cups and plates, is still preserved in a museum in the neighboring city of Rabastens. Furthermore, in 1991, the pottery craft was revived thanks to the Giroussens Pottery Art Association. The “Maison de la Céramique Contemporaine Giroussens” is a place that recreates and showcases contemporary pottery art with unique and attractive products.

As a revival in the art world, annual exhibitions are held from April to June (the 5th and 6th) each year in the town center, offering unique and one-of-a-kind artworks for visitors to enjoy. Furthermore, you can purchase tea sets, cups, and saucers in soft pastel tones for your kitchen, or vases and decorative items with unique, one-of-a-kind designs.

After choosing some lovely mugs as gifts, I cycled to the beautiful Jardins des Martels. The garden opened to visitors in 1994 and boasts stunning flower gardens featuring tulips, roses, magnolias, peonies, sunflowers, and more, as well as greenhouses for tropical plants, lotus ponds, and bonsai displays. It also houses farms raising rabbits, bears, goats, giraffes, and sheep, resembling a miniature zoo. Standing before one of the most beautiful natural gardens in France, I was captivated by the diverse plant life, creating a harmonious blend of colors that enlivened the landscape. Additionally, you can stop in the garden, sip a cup of tea, and relax with a book, enjoying the peaceful green space. In particular, a jazz concert with a predominantly white theme will take place on June 16th, and the annual lotus festival, held in early July, will also be held at Martelz Gardens. And we can't forget the traditional Japanese cultural exchange festival, featuring activities such as tea ceremony demonstrations, origami art, and the incorporation of Japanese culinary art into French cuisine. With numerous events held regularly each month throughout spring and summer, tourists will have the opportunity to explore the expansive Martelz Gardens and learn more about the history of the small town of Giroussens.

Time stands still in the Tarn Valley.

Besides visiting famous landmarks, you can also choose from sports activities such as a cycling tour organized on June 11th with two races of 60km and 90km. In addition, with the surrounding hills and valleys, you can also participate in trekking and fishing with the locals. These will be special highlights of your trip.

As for me, after visiting the Martels Gardens, I decided to take the train from Martels to Saint-Lieux-lès-Lavaur. Inside the only preserved steam train dedicated to the Tarn Valley, time seemed to slow down and the surrounding scenery gradually became clearer, as if you could touch it. Leaving the train station, I went to the chocolate art museum to admire the chocolate sculptures, learn more about the history of cocoa, and the development of this special material in sculpting art by the two artists and sculptors Madeleine Gautier (Paris) and Marta Solsona (Barcelona).

Returning to Giroussens, I visited the Saint-Salvy Church, built in the 13th century in the Gothic style with pointed arches and decorated with vibrant, colorful paintings along the walls and ceiling. Gothic architecture, which began to develop in the latter half of the Middle Ages, can easily be found in churches, castles, and universities from that era throughout Western Europe.

Just a few steps from the church is the famous L'Échauguette restaurant, renowned for its traditional French cuisine. Located in a beautiful spot in the town, L'Échauguette (meaning "ancient fortress") dates back to the 14th century. From the watchtower and garden, I could easily observe the entire town, along with the fields, the mist from the train in the distance, and the tranquil Dadou River flowing nearby. Not only was I captivated by the vast and picturesque scenery, but the restaurant also held me captive with its exquisite dishes and refined presentation in the unique style of French cuisine, such as salade gourmande (salad with smoked duck, baked apples, etc.), foie gras, beef ragoût, duck with orange sauce, cherry clafoutis, and various tarts.

What could be more delightful than sipping red wine, savoring the flavors of France, and listening to soothing jazz music on a peaceful evening in the Tarn Valley? For me, a day in Giroussens can bring a sense of relaxation and tranquility, dispelling all the worries of life. In a place where "time cannot touch," I can enjoy every poetic moment of the trip.

Additional information:

- Trip:

+ Vietnam – France:There are direct flights to Toulouse (France - Toulouse-Blagnac Airport) with Vietnam Airlines, Air France, or other airlines such as Turkish Airlines and Qatar Airways, with a layover of approximately 2 or 3 hours depending on the airline.

+ Toulouse – Giroussens:You can travel by train, bus, or taxi.

Train:From Toulouse (Toulouse Matabiau station) to Saint Sulpice/Les Cauquillous costs 7-15 euros per trip, and a taxi to Giroussens costs 10 euros, with a total travel time of approximately 40 minutes.

Bus:From Toulouse (route 956 - 3 trips/day) to Ambres, then take a taxi to Giroussens for about 15 euros per trip, with a total travel time of 60 minutes.

- Hotel:Information about hotels or guesthouses can be found on websites such as www.airbnb.com, www.expedia.com, or you can look for homestays with local families.www.couchsurfing.orgYou can save additional information about Le Pépil: Guest house – Gite rural et chamber d'hôtes and Le Pipil: Raynaud Jean-Paul for your trip.

Alternatively, you could stay in Toulouse or in Ambres, Lavaur, Saint Sulpice and visit Giroussens for a day trip… those are also suitable options for you.

- Sightseeing and dining:

+ Maison de la céramique:The entrance fee is 3 euros per person. Open from 10 am to 12 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm, except Mondays.

+ Jardins des Martels:Closed from December to March (winter), open from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM from May to August, and from 1:30 PM to 6:00 PM during the rest of the year. Ticket prices range from 5.20 to 8.20 euros per person.

Train from Saint-Lieux-lès-Lavaur to Martels Gardens: 7 euros/round trip/person. You can check the train schedule at Lavaur/Martels station.

+ Musée d'Art du ChocolatTicket price: 3.50 euros per person.

+ L'Échauguette:The restaurant is open for lunch Monday to Wednesday, and lunch and dinner Friday to Sunday. Set menus are priced at 12.50–30 euros per adult, 11–14 euros per child, and à la carte dishes are 9–16 euros per course.

You can enjoy desserts and pastries at restaurants along with cocktails, coffee, beer… or at cafes in the town center such as Bar Le Girou, Café Suquet.

- Transportation:You can walk or rent a bicycle (regular bicycle, electric bicycle, or children's bicycle) atwww.ouibike.netto admire the fields, churches, castles… surrounding the town.

Le Bui Ngoc Chau