Pilgrimage to Adam's Peak, the sacred footprint mountain in Sri Lanka.

11/01/2016

A long line of torches illuminated the 5,200-step path from the foot of the mountain to its highest peak. In the chilly winter night air, the singing of the pilgrims warmed our hearts. Joining the long procession, we awaited the first rays of dawn to illuminate the land of Sri Lanka.

It was midnight. The sky was thick with no moon or stars. After a heavy rain, the weather suddenly turned cold. Our group put on warm jackets, backpacks, raincoats, and hats, and left our resting place to head to the foot of Adam's Peak – a sacred pilgrimage site for the people of this country.

Although Sri Lanka's winter temperatures are only around 20 degrees Celsius, the heavy rain made it significantly colder. One might expect that with such stormy weather, few people would be climbing the mountain for the pilgrimage, but at 2 AM, dozens were already preparing for their journey. Several torches had been lit, flashlights swept across the path, and the lights on the steps were still shining brightly, illuminating the winding path ahead. The shops were closed, only the sound of rain pattering on the thatched roofs, the steady footsteps, and the soft prayers of the pilgrims could be heard. We joined the crowd, taking our first steps on the steps.

For most visitors, the trek usually begins in Dalhousie, a small village located north of the mountain. From Dalhousie, you have to climb about 7 km, taking an average of 3-4 hours. After a few flat stretches and passing small temples, the path gradually inclines, and the steps become increasingly steep. Exhausted, we stopped to rest, drink water, and eat some sweets to replenish our energy. The steps continued higher and higher. The cold had given way to beads of sweat on our cheeks and aching legs. But I didn't dare take off my jacket for fear that the night dew and cold air could easily cause a climber to catch a cold. The groups ahead had also stopped to rest. In the flickering light of flashlights and candles, the pilgrims with us today included adults and children, elderly people with hunched backs and gray hair, as well as strong young men. A foreign couple had gone ahead of us, leaving us quite far behind. We met them again the next morning, as we watched the glorious sunrise together from the summit of Adam's Peak.

It is believed that the first person to discover the sacred footprints was King Valagambahu (104–76 BC), during his exile in the wild mountains. To this day, whose footprints they are remains debated. Religious organizations still believe they are the special footprints of saints in their faith. Legend says that the footprints of the Buddha are imprinted on Adam Peak. In the eighth year after his enlightenment, the Buddha visited Kelaniya at the request of the Naga king Maniakkika. The Buddha was accompanied by 500 monks. After staying in Kelaniya, the Buddha also visited other places such as Digavaapi. And at this Sri Pada peak, the Buddha left the imprint of his left foot on the granite rock before departing. Meanwhile, some Christians believe that the "footprints" in the rock on the mountain peak are Adam's first footprints on earth after being expelled from the Garden of Eden. Some Christians believe these are the footprints of Saint Thomas, who brought Christianity to South India in the 1st century AD, while Hindus believe them to be the footprints of Shiva – the god of destruction (hence the mountain is also known as Sivan Adipadham or Sivanolipatha Malai), and some Sri Lankan Muslims believe them to be the footprints of Al-Rohun (Soul).

One thing you can see is that Adam's Peak has been a pilgrimage site for over 1000 years, attracting thousands of Sri Lankan pilgrims and tourists from around the world. Every spring, Buddhists and followers of other faiths line up in orderly rows, climbing the 5200 steps at night under flickering torchlight to reach the summit before sunrise. The pilgrims, with their brightly lit torches, form a long, winding trail of light along the mountain's path. This illuminated path has become an iconic image of pilgrimage climbing in Sri Lanka. Visitors from all over the world come here with their own beliefs and hopes, climbing the mountain alongside the local people. Regardless of your faith—whether Buddhist, Christian, Muslim, or Hindu—the pilgrimage path will lead you to a “region of light, faith, and hope.”

The local people were humming softly beside us and happily sitting with us on the steps. Despite the language barrier and the lack of mutual understanding, I could clearly see a burning faith in their eyes. There were elderly women, bent over, clutching bunches of fragrant white jasmine flowers. They carried the flowers all the way to the top and carefully placed them in the sacred spot. Although my pilgrimage was primarily for sightseeing and exploration, I couldn't help but feel a sense of faith as I was surrounded by prayers for peace, health, happiness, and joy.

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The climb grew colder and colder. I felt like I was ascending Yen Tu Mountain, but with a different feeling. The stronger ones went first, the weaker ones followed behind, helping each other. There was no pushing or shoving. Just a stream of people moving in the ethereal light and the never-ending singing. The air was damp and rainy, and occasionally a few raindrops still fell from the trees. For us, hooded jackets were very convenient. The locals, however, wore scarves to cover their heads. I was curious about the threads strung along both sides of the railings. A passerby explained in broken English that these threads connected the past, present, and future in each person's life.

There were only a few hundred steps left to reach the summit. We had stopped to rest quite a few times, used up a lot of water, and had been climbing for almost three hours. The steps were divided in two by iron railings, one for ascending and one for descending. Dawn was breaking. From this height, we could see the entire surrounding Adam Peak below, with its vast forests and a few pointed-roof temple peaks rising amidst the green foliage.

A large crowd of Buddhist devotees is gathered on the sacred summit of the mountain. The sky is beginning to brighten in the distance, a shimmering pink hue. When the first rays of dawn illuminate the sacred mountain (2243m above sea level), on clear days, Sri Lankans believe the light reflects the shape of a sacred footprint against the sky. This is a peculiar optical phenomenon that adds a mystical and divine beauty to the sacred mountain.

After the dazzling dawn, we followed a group of Buddhists around the sacred footprints. An old monk blessed us by placing the sacred mark on our foreheads and giving us garlands to take home. The little girl who accompanied us asked for a bell to bless her grandparents.

We left the sacred peak when the sun was high in the sky. A series of steps led the pilgrims down to the foot of the mountain. Unlike the tiring ascent, we descended at a leisurely pace, stopping less frequently for rest. Two dogs, from the very top of the mountain, followed us silently all the way to the first gate at the foot of the mountain. 5200 steps of pilgrimage, filled with faith and hope for a better life.

BOX: Regardless of your faith—whether Buddhist, Christian, Muslim, or Hindu—the pilgrimage path will lead you to the “land of light, faith, and hope.”

Additional information:

Sri Lanka is not a highly developed tourist destination. Services are still limited; only hotels with 3 stars or more offer hot and cold water and air conditioning.

Those interested in cultural tourism can explore the ruins – the heritage of an ancient culture. Sri Lanka has an area known as the “Cultural Triangle,” comprising three ancient cities: Polonnaruwa, Anuradhapura, and Kandy. Polonnaruwa is the center of the “Cultural Triangle,” located 216km northwest of the capital, Colombo.

Currency: Rupee (exchange rate 100 Rupees = 1 USD)

The best time of year for pilgrimage is in the spring, from December of the previous year to April of the following year.

Adam's Peak is also known as Sri Pada, Sivan Adipadham, or Sivanolipatha Malai.

The best option for a group of travelers is to hire a private car to get to popular tourist spots. When asking for directions, it's best to show a map with clearly marked place names to avoid confusion.
The daily diet consists of rice and curry, pittu (roasted rice mixed with fresh coconut milk, then cooked in bamboo tubes). For those with picky eating habits, it's advisable to bring instant noodles and dried foods like dried shredded pork, sesame seeds, and peanuts to eat with white rice. Remember to bring an extra spoon because Sri Lankans eat with their hands.

The people of Sri Lanka are quite gentle and friendly. Don't hesitate to ask them for directions if you need them.
Foreign women should not travel alone, especially on buses. Buses are often air-conditioned very cold, so remember to bring a warm jacket or scarf.

There are buses from Kitugala to Adam's Peak, but to get to Adam's Peak from Horton Plain, you have to go back to Nuwara Eliya and then take another bus.

Souvenirs to take home: Don't forget some premium tea, as Sri Lanka is one of the world's largest tea producers. Additionally, colorful folk masks are also essential souvenirs to pack in your bag.

Text and photos: Lam Linh

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