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The origin of the printed cake
Bánh in is believed to have originated in Kim Long village during the Nguyen dynasty. It was specifically offered to the emperor as a tea offering, hence its other name, "royal tribute cake."
Kim Long village, also known as Kim Luong, was established approximately 400 years ago. In 1636, Lord Nguyen Phuc Lan moved the capital to Kim Long, making it the administrative and military center of Dang Trong (Southern Vietnam) for a time. Later, during the Nguyen dynasty, land in Kim Long was granted to princes and high-ranking officials to build mansions. For several hundred years, this village was exclusively for the nobility and officials.
The villagers of Kim Long now recount that, on the eve of the Lunar New Year, a (Nguyen) king suddenly wanted a dish to accompany his tea. The king then ordered several skilled elders in Kim Long to prepare a dish that was both delicious and inexpensive, for him to enjoy with his tea.
After much discussion, the village elders realized that the mung beans were readily available and abundant in the area; simply adding a little sugar was enough to make a delicious cake; and the cost of making the cake was low. And so, the first mung bean cake from Kim Long village was offered to the king, with the character "Thọ" (longevity) printed on its surface, signifying a wish for the king's long life. The king tasted it, was pleased, and ordered the craft to be preserved for future generations.
Photo: Le Huy Hoang Hai
small yet elaborate cakes
In Kim Long village today, there are about 20 establishments producing "royal tribute" cakes. These cakes are used by locals to offer to their ancestors and to entertain guests during festivals and holidays. The cakes have also evolved, from square to various other shapes such as round, rectangular, and hexagonal. The ingredients are also more diverse, but the most popular and preferred choice remains mung bean paste.
Although it's a small cake, making bánh in (a type of Vietnamese rice cake) requires many steps. First, the selection of ingredients must be meticulous. The baker chooses the whitest flour, the best sugar, and whole mung beans with their skins intact and of uniform size. The beans are soaked for 5 hours, rinsed thoroughly with water several times to remove the skins, and then cooked. During cooking, the beans are checked frequently to ensure they are cooked through.
Next, the beans are mixed with white sugar, cooked on the stove until tender, then left to cool until dry. After 24 hours, they are pounded. After pounding, the powder is sifted to obtain fine, even particles. Before being molded into cakes, the powder is passed through a rolling machine to loosen it, resulting in a smooth, beautiful surface.
Mr. Nguyen Xuan Lang (86 years old) has been making rice cakes, ginseng cakes, and pineapple cakes for over 70 years (Photo: Le Huy Hoang Hai)
The cakes are printed using molds in various shapes. The most common is printing letters.longevityDuring the printing process, the worker skillfully smooths the paper evenly to ensure the cakes are square and not tilted. The printing pressure is just right, not too strong to break the cakes, but not too weak either. Next, the cakes are dried in a sealed oven for a full 12 hours to achieve a crispy and fragrant texture.
When the cakes are ready, everyone gathers to wrap them. The cakes are wrapped in cellophane paper in five colors, symbolizing the five elements and representing the wish for a prosperous and abundant new year. Therefore, the cakes are also called five-colored cakes.
After wrapping the cakes, building the tower is the final step. The cakes are built in the style of the Phuoc Duyen Tower, the symbol of Thien Mu Pagoda. Typically, the tower will have 5 or 12 tiers, the number depending on the needs. In this stage, the artisan must arrange the cakes meticulously, carefully, and gently to prevent them from breaking.
Bánh in, along with other traditional Hue New Year cakes, are displayed at Hue Ancient Houses (Photo: Thien Minh)
In the final months of the year, Hue's traditional rice cake processing facilities become bustling with large orders, serving the religious needs of the people. Over time, rice cakes have also become a traditional cultural feature, reminding visitors of a distinctive image unique to Hue during the Lunar New Year and Spring Festival.
Not only are they displayed at religious sites, but now, tourists visiting Hue during the spring season can easily find printed cakes in resorts, garden houses, or modern cultural spaces.
