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For over 1,000 years, natural hot springs—known as onsen—have been an essential part of Japanese life, cleansing both body and soul. There are over 3,000 onsen in Japan. Rich in minerals and sourced directly from the 25,000 bubbling hot springs beneath the geothermal archipelago's surface, onsens offer a tranquil experience for individuals and communities, as families, friends, and neighbors shed their clothes and step together into the steaming water. From sophisticated spas in the city center to ocean-side caves, each Japanese onsen has its own unique charm—but some are situated in a location unlike any other.
Nestled beside the Kurobe River deep in the Japanese Alps, Japan's most remote onsen (hot spring) takes two days to reach.
Considered the most remote onsen in Japan, Takamagahara (meaning "high plains of heaven") is a two-day hike – a pilgrimage for the most extreme hot spring bathers. To soak in the healing waters of Chubu-Sangaku National Park, hiking and onsen enthusiasts must trek over 40 km through forests and along rivers, climbing steep slopes and sleeping in isolated mountain huts. The route is not for the inexperienced: it's a true expedition, demanding physical endurance as well as a deep understanding of the unpredictable mountain climate.
Those wishing to soak in the health-restoring waters of Takamagahara must walk more than 40 kilometers.
The reward is a cluster of unassuming bathhouses nestled deep in a rocky valley. While the landscapes, minerals, and designs of Japanese onsens are unique, each shares an invisible connection to nature. In an increasingly urbanized world, it's no surprise that outdoor bathing, known as rotenburo, is the most sought-after experience, offering panoramic views of the starry sky and a cool breeze as one sits nestled in mineral-rich water. Far removed from civilization, surrounded by mountain trees and the soothing sound of flowing water, Takamagahara is the pinnacle of the rotenburo outdoor hot spring experience.
While a four-day (round trip) trek might seem extreme, Japanese pilgrimage traditions date back centuries—a perfect example of a journey of equal footing, with a sense of transcendence, and a destination. Once upon a time, Edo-era pilgrims came here, and since then the mountains surrounding Takamagahara have been sanctified and considered manifestations of kami, the deities of Japanese Shintoism.
The phone had no signal along the trail and the weather was constantly changing.
As the summer heat gradually fades, a long hike seems like the perfect introduction to a new season for hot spring bathing. To reach this remote, wild, and uninhabited mountainside, simply catch an overnight express train to Toyama and then embark on a winding two-hour bus ride to the trailhead near the small village of Oritate early the next morning.
On the trail leading to Takamagahara, fog blanketed the hills, completely transforming the landscape, and the phone signal was lost. The rocky, uphill path was soon replaced by a wooden boardwalk to protect the high-altitude vegetation. The weathered boards were unusual but strikingly beautiful, winding into the distance along the slopes, captivating the eye. On the mountain grass, patches of vibrant color dotted the landscape—the last blossoms of the mountain flowering season.
A series of secluded mountain huts, where hikers can eat and sleep, are scattered along the trail.
Mountain huts, called yamagoya, typically close for the winter. These huts—supplied monthly by helicopter and managed by on-site staff—allow hikers to avoid carrying heavy camping gear by providing simple sleeping quarters and meals cooked on-site. As the only connection to the outside world, these huts form a vital network in these remote mountain ranges, providing detailed forecasts and suggested routes based on weather patterns and tracking hikers to ensure no one gets lost.
The first yamagoya hut for resting is Tarodaira, and the second is Yakushizawa, 12 km away. The huts remain sturdy despite years of wear and tear. Lined with straw mats and furnished with neatly folded blankets, the yamagoya huts are very simple. Standing here to rest and regain strength, visitors can look down at the Kurobe River below and the seemingly tireless hikers fishing along the riverbank.
At dinner, crispy tempura and bowls of steamed rice from a central pot are distributed to each guest. Soup from a shared pot and tea are the perfect accompaniment, followed by toasts to the delicious meal. Guests sit together, shoulder to shoulder, the toast of "kanpai" (cheers) rings out, and beer glasses are raised and clinked in a shared ritual.
The Japanese concept of hadaka no tsukiai (group nudity) is believed to break down barriers and strengthen relationships.
One of the joys of the public onsen bathing experience is the opportunity to connect closely with friends, family, or colleagues. Soaking side-by-side, bathers can forget the hierarchical relationships of Japanese culture and speak openly amidst the steam of the hot spring. This concept, known as hadaka no tsukiai (collective nudity), breaks down barriers and fosters relationships that would be impossible without the intimacy of communal bathing. When everyone is naked, everyone is equal. In fact, a peaceful onsen atmosphere is based on a delicate balance of unwritten social rules. From removing shoes to washing thoroughly in individual bathing areas, this ritual soon becomes second nature – an escape from the monotony of daily life.
Mountain flowers and wild blueberries mark the path to the hot springs.
Leaving Yakushizawa, walking on wooden planks, visitors gradually make their way towards the Kumanodaira plateau and the famous scenery of distant mountain peaks. Climbing ladders and crossing narrow bridges, the hikers finally reach the simple Takamagahara hut and see the signs for the onsen. Just a 20-minute walk down a stone path towards the famous hot spring, the smell of hot sulfur – an inescapable yet pleasant odor for onsen enthusiasts – is the first sign of this hidden hot spring.
Wooden planks protect alpine vegetation and create easy pathways for pedestrians.
While the two gender-separated baths of Takamagahara are enclosed by simple bamboo partitions, a third, mixed-gender bath sits outdoors, visible to all. This mixed-gender bath, known as konyoku, was popular in Japan until the 19th century, but now rural onsens are among the last to continue this tradition.
Stepping into the clear water, hours of tiring walking vanish as you can "immerse yourself in nature" and admire the rocky peaks in the distance. There's a Japanese phrase, "kachou fuugetsu," which literally translates to "flowers, birds, wind, moon," but it speaks to the importance of experiencing the beauty of nature and using this opportunity to learn about yourself.
Far from civilization, surrounded by mountain trees and the soothing sound of flowing water, Takamagahara is the pinnacle of the outdoor hot spring bathing experience.
If you've already made the trek to Takamagahara, why not try a hadaka no tsukiai experience, to savor the essence of communal onsen happiness on the high plains of this Japanese paradise?
