Pai - the town of dreamers

Before discovering Pai in particular, or northern Thailand in general, Thailand was a vibrant place to me, where the streets at night were not only filled with lights but also with hospitality. In my eyes, Thailand was never still, never quiet. That was before I knew Pai.

A challenging but beautiful stretch of road.

There are three ways to travel to northern Thailand. You can fly from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, or from Vietnam, where there are now direct flights to Chiang Mai, a popular northern city in Thailand. You can also travel by road using a van or motorbike.

But I learned that if you travel to this mountainous region and don't personally experience the more than 100 km of mountain pass with nearly a thousand curves, it's a huge oversight. Riding a motorbike in Thailand is already a challenge, as I had to get used to driving on the left side of the road, and the challenge is even harder when the entire stretch is full of winding curves. There are many consecutive hairpin bends, seemingly designed to test even the most skilled riders.

Yet along the way, I encountered quite a few groups of backpackers, or even families with young children, riding together in vans, heading north. It turned out this was the peak tourist season for Thailand. Around this time, Thai people travel north to enjoy the cold weather. They go on motorbike trips in groups, or in pickup trucks, and stay there camping. It's not much different from Da Lat for Vietnamese people, I thought to myself.

Despite the dangers and difficulties, as I sped through the forests covering this stretch of road, I understood why tourists still choose the route. Along the way, you'll pass through vast expanses of tall, straight trees. In some sections, the canopy completely covers the sky, so even at midday, the air remains cool and pleasant.

Then, unexpectedly, as you pass through the valley, the mountain pass opens up to a magnificent landscape of towering mountains, shrouded in mist, as if it were a place where the sun cannot reach.

After about three hours on the motorbike, the roads suddenly became busier, signaling that I had arrived at a residential area. The tiny town of Pai, nestled peacefully amidst the mountains of Mae Hong Son province, is a haven for travelers who consider the land and sky their home. This is because inside Pai, it's as bustling as a miniature city, mostly filled with Western tourists and backpackers.

Tea in the morning, wine in the evening.

Pai exhibits two completely different moods within a single day. From morning to afternoon, Pai takes on a calm, icy yet gentle appearance. On some tranquil mornings, you'll see mist not only clinging to the branches and leaves but also drifting lazily over the river, creating a rare and enchanting scene.

The narrow streets were deserted until 10 a.m. because the tourists hadn't yet woken up after the night before. Rarely did I spot a few stalls selling kway teow (noodle soup) or plain rice porridge, serving breakfast to the locals and helping to satisfy my hunger.

If you happen to wake up early in Pai, you should find a café and have some tea. For some reason, I find drinking tea in Pai very poetic. Perhaps, for me, Pai is like tea—gentle, elegant, yet very adept at evoking emotions.

Coffee In Love is a café in Pai that's been around for about 10 years. Those familiar with the seventh art will immediately recognize it as the café featured in the romantic film Pai In Love (2009). This film also inspired many people to visit the town.

I was also captivated by the afternoons in Pai, when the streets had a glimmer of life, just bustling enough to feel the atmosphere, yet still retaining a contemplative, gentle charm. One afternoon, I went to Pai Canyon, a small gorge, to watch the sunset. Amidst this scene, a group of strangers gathered together, gazing out at the desolate expanse, no one speaking a word, simply waiting silently for the sun to set. The fiery orange-red hues illuminating a corner of the sky left me with an incredibly powerful emotion.

In that moment, I felt as if strangers were strangely drawn to each other. We easily struck up conversations, talking about our travels, the sunsets, how we came to Pai, and how we met. That's how Pai connects people.

And as the sun sets behind the mountains, Pai dons the attire of a hippie, becoming a carefree wanderer, living life to the fullest. Pai at night is incredibly lively, with tourists flocking to bars, sipping beer and listening to acoustic music. At the Pai Walking Street night market, you can easily spot some nomads selling impressive hand-painted pictures in some style I couldn't understand. A few street musicians stand and sing. Street food stalls also begin to steam, emitting a strangely alluring aroma.

I sat at Malamong Art café, one of the rare places on the street that doesn't serve alcoholic drinks, ordered a cup of ginger tea, and watched the bustling crowds go by. In this space filled with all sorts of sounds, I sat in a corner, quieted my mind, and tried to…love the movements around me—movements whose positive, lovely energy I probably wouldn't have recognized if I were caught in their whirlwind.

Information about Pai:

• Pai covers an area of ​​approximately 2250 square kilometers and has a population of about 30,000 people. It is a district in the northeastern part of Mae Hong Son province. Pai is 133 km from Chiang Mai city.
• The population of Pai is very diverse, including Thais, the Chinese community in Santichon village, foreigners living in a hippie style, and some foreigners who live here for tourism.
• Pai is famous for attractions such as:

- Yun Lai Viewpoint is a place to watch the sunrise every day in Santichon Chinese Village.

- Pai Canyon is a small canyon similar to the Grand Canyon, a popular spot for watching the sunset.

- Coffee In Love cafe.

- The historic Pai Memorial Bridge.

- Sai Ngam Hot Springs.

- Pai Walking Street Night Market.

• When traveling by motorbike in Thailand, you are required to have an International Driving Permit or a PET driving permit (with English text).

Le Ho Uy Di