Trekking through Tram Tau, experiencing the beauty of the "strip of clouds stretching across the sky" in Cu Vai village.

10/11/2021

After being stuck in one place for quite a while due to the complicated Covid-19 situation, our group of Hanoi adventurers chose Cu Vai village, covered in clouds year-round, as the highlight for our off-road trip to celebrate the most beautiful season of the year, late autumn - early winter.

In Tram Tau, you can enjoy a hot spring bath while admiring the terraced rice fields.

Tram Tau is a mountainous district in Yen Bai province, located 110 km southwest of Yen Bai city and 31 km from Nghia Lo town. Tram Tau is considered a "hidden gem," captivating with its pristine beauty and numerous tourism potentials waiting to be discovered. Tram Tau has a strong potential for developing ecotourism due to its location in the steep terrain of the Hoang Lien Son mountain range, with an average altitude of approximately 800 m and the highest peak reaching 2,985 m above sea level.

Tram Tau also attracts visitors because of its cool mountainous climate in the summer. The winter is cold, with peak tourist spots where temperatures drop to 0 degrees Celsius, and snow blankets the high mountains and tree canopies, glistening in the sunlight…

Đường lên bản Công, Trạm Tấu xuyên qua một rừng thông

The road to Cong village, Tram Tau, winds through a pine forest.

Trạm Tấu được đánh giá là đẹp quanh năm với cảnh quan ruộng bậc thang ngoạn mục, nguồn nước khoáng tự nhiên với hàm lượng Silic và lưu huỳnh cao có tác dụng chữa bệnh, nhiều loại hình văn hóa nghệ thuật và ẩm thực dân tộc đặc sắc.

Tram Tau is considered beautiful year-round with its spectacular terraced rice fields, natural mineral water with high silicon and sulfur content that has medicinal properties, and many unique forms of ethnic culture, art, and cuisine.

Our first stop was the Cuong Hai Natural Hot Spring Area, spanning over 600 square meters.2Located in Luu village, Hat Luu commune, Tram Tau town, the resort offers rooms at listed prices ranging from 900,000 to 4.5 million VND per room per night. If you only want to bathe in the hot springs without staying overnight, the price is 80,000 to 120,000 VND per person. However, our group and other tourists who visited during this time were all satisfied. First, because of the romantic scenery with the mineral water baths right next to the gracefully winding terraced rice fields in their "golden season" of ripe rice. The rooms also made a good impression, meticulously designed down to the smallest detail, meeting the quality standards of a 3-4 star hotel. This is something not all private resorts in the north can guarantee.

Bể nước khoáng nóng chính với nhiệt độ vừa phải, du khách có thể ngâm/bơi cả giờ. Phía trong là bể nhỏ nước nóng hơn, chỉ thích hợp thư giãn thời gian ngắn nếu không người sẽ “đỏ như tôm luộc”.

The main hot spring pool has a moderate temperature, allowing visitors to soak/swim for hours. Inside is a smaller pool with hotter water, only suitable for short periods of relaxation; otherwise, you'll get "as red as a boiled shrimp."

View từ tầng 2 của quán cà phê nhỏ tại Khu du lịch sinh thái Suối khoáng Trạm Tấu.

View from the second floor of a small cafe at the Tram Tau Hot Spring Ecotourism Area.

“I never expected to find such an amazing resort in this remote village,” shared tourist Pham Hai from Hanoi. “It’s unexpectedly beautiful; if it were a little closer to Hanoi, I would come here more often with my family,” commented teacher Anh Dao, also from Hanoi. “Next time, we’ll bring our grandparents here so they can experience the amazing hot springs of Tram Tau,” said Sushi, the youngest member of the group, 12 years old, to her parents…

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Off-roading in the rain, "hunting" for clouds swirling around the mountain peaks.

Having planned to experience the adventurous mountain climbing destination of Ban Cong commune in western Tram Tau - home to Ta Xua peak at an altitude of about 1,300m - our group did not stay overnight but continued on to Ban Cong to enjoy camping and sleeping in tents on the high mountain, waiting to "hunt" for clouds and watch the sunrise.

Đón bình minh trong vẻ đẹp tinh khôi của bầu trời mênh mang, những đỉnh núi xanh viền mây trắng.

Greet the sunrise amidst the pristine beauty of the vast sky, with green mountain peaks edged by white clouds.

Our final destination was Cu Vai village, situated on a high mountain peak of approximately 1,300 meters in Xa Ho commune. The picturesque Cu Vai village, perpetually shrouded in clouds, lives up to its name in Thai, meaning "a strip of clouds stretching across the sky," with over 80% of its 46 households belonging to the Hmong ethnic group.

Although it's less than 20 km from the center of Tram Tau, the journey to conquer Cu Vai was even more of a "nightmare" than the road to Cong village because we traveled in the rain, and the worst part was having to drive off-road in a very bumpy, muddy manner!

While waiting for my convoy to be pulled out of the mud, a H'Mong father and son riding a Win motorcycle offered to take me to visit their village of Cu Vai first. It was quite an exhilarating experience as the Win motorcycle weaved through the deep mud trenches, sending mud flying up to my head, with a bottomless abyss on one side!

Do trước đó mưa kéo dài mấy ngày nên đoàn xe của chúng tôi phải off-road trong bùn đất nhão nhoẹt quấn chặt bánh xe.

Because of the prolonged rain over the previous days, our convoy had to off-road through thick, muddy terrain that clung tightly to the wheels.

Cha con bé trai H’Mông siêu cute, cưỡi “chiến mã” Win bánh xe quấn dây xích, chở tôi lên thăm bản Cu Vai trước đoàn xe sa lầy.

A super cute H'Mông father and son, riding a Win motorcycle with wheels wrapped in chains, took me to visit Cu Vai village before our convoy got stuck in the mud.

Finally, the whole group achieved their dream of conquering Cu Vai despite the rain and cold. We walked together for about 10 minutes along the only road between the villages, taking a few photos to check in on the early spring in the highlands… We said goodbye to the hospitable people here, promising to return to Cu Vai on a sunny day when the road up there is completed.

Additional information

Transportation: There are many ways to reach Tram Tau, but the ideal options are motorbikes and cars. From Hanoi, you can reach Tram Tau via Thang Long Boulevard, then National Highway 21 to Son Tay. After that, continue over Khe Pass to Van Chan District, then turn onto Nghia Lo Road to reach the mountainous area of ​​Tram Tau.

Accommodation: In recent years, tourism in Tram Tau has developed strongly, so accommodation options are quite diverse. Depending on your travel itinerary, you can flexibly choose from a number of guesthouses and homestays.

Cuisine: Five-colored sticky rice, Nam Thia fish, red rice with fermented meat, fern shoots, stream moss, shrimp paste... are all specialties you should try.

Some destinations in Tram Tau:

- Ta Xua: One of the 10 highest mountain peaks in Vietnam, located in Ban Cong commune with an altitude of 2,865 m.

- Ta Chi Nhu: at 2,979 m, it boasts complex terrain, lush green primeval forests, dwarf bamboo forests, and low-lying leaf forests with countless species of flowers.

- Cu Vai Village: a Hmong village located in Xa Ho commune, boasting a peaceful natural setting characteristic of the northern mountains and hills, often shrouded in clouds. The village currently has about 50 households, with rustic wooden houses and winding paths leading to every corner.

Vào lúc nắng đẹp khi mây sà xuống lưng chừng núi, bản Cu Vai hiện lên đầy mê hoặc (Ảnh: Nếm)

On a sunny day when the clouds drift down halfway up the mountain, the village of Cu Vai appears enchanting (Photo: Nếm).

Linh Giang
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