Sinai - Egypt's strange half of Asia.

One of humanity's greatest ancient civilizations boasts more than just pyramids and ancient temples that remain intact. Few know that this geographically peculiar country, situated across two continents, with its Asian half, is equally captivating.

Egypt, located in North Africa, has over 90% of its land covered by desert, with the Nile River covering approximately 5% of its area, and the majority of its population living along its banks. The country is also famous for the Suez Canal, connecting the Mediterranean Sea to the Red Sea. This canal also forms the dividing line between Asia and Africa. The Asian half lies entirely on the Sinai Peninsula.

The Sinai Peninsula has a rather unusual topography, divided into two parts: North and South. North Sinai is almost entirely mountainous and desert, while South Sinai is surrounded by the Red Sea – a famous destination for sea-loving tourists. I arrived in Egypt one early winter day and decided to cross the Suez Canal to the Asian side to go diving in the Red Sea and touch the sacred Mount Sinai.

Landing in the military zone.

There are two ways to get across the peninsula from Cairo: by bus or by plane. Mohamed Gad, my tour guide whom I had recently met while traveling here, knowing I was traveling alone, suggested I fly because it would be faster, more comfortable, and safer. I insisted on taking the overnight bus. My main purpose was partly to save money, but above all, to fully experience and feel the daily life of the locals.

Gad took me to the bus stop. He pointed it out and told me to cross the road; the ticket office was right on the corner. Then, when it was time for the bus, I should come back to this side to board. I hesitated: How would I know which bus I needed to board, since all the license plates here were in Arabic? Gad reassured me: "Just show your ticket and ask the people here; they'll guide you. Don't worry, Egyptians are very kind and friendly. Egypt is also one of the safest countries in the world for tourists to travel in."

“Safe?” I wondered to myself. Looking at the men here, all tall, with bushy beards and vacant stares, how could I not be cautious! It was past 9 PM, and the ticket office was sparsely populated. Only one of the four ticket counters was still operating. The ticket office was quite small and rudimentary, but the ticketing system was quite modern. In front of each counter was an LCD screen displaying a seating chart for customers to choose from, and the ticket seller only needed to confirm the information before printing the ticket.

The night bus station was quite empty. The bus was fairly clean, but even though it was a long-distance bus, there were only seated buses, not sleeper buses. I put my luggage under the seat and boarded the bus, noticing that all the passengers were men. For the first 30 minutes in downtown Cairo, the bus played Arabic prayers, but as soon as it entered the highway, it switched to loud, jarring Arabic films, making it impossible for me to fall asleep.

At midnight, just as I was dozing off, I was awakened by the bus stopping and the noise of passengers inside. Outside, a series of other buses were also stopped, and passengers were getting on and off in a chaotic manner. I was surprised to see people systematically carrying their luggage, standing in a circle and opening their bags to put them on the ground in front of them. In front of them, many police officers in black uniforms, with long rifles in hand, were walking back and forth. Before I could compose myself, the driver gestured for me to get off the bus, retrieve my luggage, and line up like the other passengers.

The police officers walked back and forth, shining flashlights into each bag of luggage. It was then that I understood they were conducting security checks. Our bus was about to pass through the tunnel to cross the Suez Canal, to the Asian side. For the rest of the journey, the bus stopped every 30 minutes or so. Each time, there were many police officers surrounding the bus, conducting lengthy checks. The only difference was that on subsequent occasions, passengers didn't have to retrieve their luggage for individual inspections like before. Around 7 a.m., the bus arrived at the Sharm El Sheikh station, after nearly nine hours covering over 700 kilometers.

The Sinai Peninsula is a military zone of Egypt. It shares a border with Israel and is separated from Saudi Arabia only by the narrow Gulf of Aqada. Given its sensitive geographical location, especially after the Six-Day War in 1967 between the Egyptian and Arab coalition and Israel, the peninsula became a heavily guarded military area by the Egyptian army.

The blue ribbon on the Red Sea

Despite being a rather sensitive military area, Sinai ranks second only to Cairo, home to the famous Giza Pyramids, in terms of tourist numbers thanks to its beautiful scenery and the government's efforts to encourage and promote tourism there.

Sinai boasts two natural treasures that attract tourists: the Ras Mohamed National Seaweed Park and Mount Sinai. Along the long southern coast of the peninsula, there are only dreamlike 4- to 6-star hotels and resorts. There are hardly any residential houses to be seen. The population is concentrated in Na'ama Bay in the south and the new city of Dahab, hundreds of kilometers from Sharm El Sheikh. Dahab is also the second most popular destination for beach activities, after Sharm El Sheikh.

“The entire peninsula has less than 600,000 inhabitants, so most of the workers here come from elsewhere. Because Islam is the state religion, men participate in almost all the work. Women mainly stay at home and spend time with their families,” Gad shared when I brought up the story of the night bus ride that was full of only men.

I quickly dropped off my luggage at the hotel, made a hot cup of coffee, and boarded a local tour bus that Gad had arranged for me to head to the pier for diving. Sharm El Sheikh has quite a few diving spots, the most famous of which is Shark Reef in Ras Mohamed. This spot is famous for its barracuda. ​​If you're lucky, you might even spot a reef shark (a type of shark that doesn't attack people).

The speedboat service for snorkeling here is quite modern. The boats are spacious and clean. Below deck are changing rooms and bathrooms. There's even a lounge-like room with a small food counter. The entire upper deck is used for relaxation and enjoying the sea view.

Mahmoud, my guide and diving partner, recommended diving at Tiran Island if time permits, the second most popular diving spot on the peninsula. Alternatively, you could try snorkeling at the Blue Hole in the Gulf of Aqada. However, because the Blue Hole is a natural sinkhole hundreds of meters deep near the coast (resulting in its deep blue color), divers need advanced diving certifications and extensive diving experience for diving centers to accept them.

It must be acknowledged that each diving spot has its own unique beauty and appeal due to the diverse coral reefs and marine life; no two spots are alike. Therefore, these diving spots are consistently ranked among the world's most beautiful diving destinations by many prestigious magazines.

After a day of snorkeling filled with a range of emotions and scenes that felt like entering a fairytale land, I spent the afternoon returning to watch the sunset at the bow of the ship in Ras Mohamed National Park. The bow is a narrow strip of land jutting out into the sea, occasionally revealing geological fissures through which, looking down from the shore, I could see schools of small fish and coral deep below. I gazed into the distance. Under the fading sunlight on the Red Sea, the water shimmered with varying shades of blue, like soft scarves draped around a young woman's neck.

Touching the land of the Old Testament

“Today the Lord has mercy on his people; today the Lord brings his people up to Mount Zion.” (*) This is a passage from a famous hymn from the 1950s that almost every Catholic has heard at least once. The hymn is taken from the Exodus psalm, about Moses, a great prophet in the Old Testament, leading 70 people up Mount Sinai to receive the Sinai Covenant, which are the Ten Commandments that Christianity still uses today.

(*) The name in the Old Testament refers to the area of ​​Mount Sinai today. Mount Sinai was also known to the Egyptians as Mount Moses.

To witness the sunrise over Mount Sinai, visitors must depart at 11 pm from Sharm El Sheikh or Dahab, a three-hour drive to the meeting point at the foot of the mountain. My group and I were introduced to Mohamed, a local guide who would assist us during the climb. After brief greetings and introductions, Mohamed described the trekking route: it would be a trail with steep sections and jagged rocks, but not too difficult and quite safe.

The sky was pitch black, with only a few faint lights from the flashlights of the pilgrims as we began our trek. Mohamed walked ahead, shining his flashlight, constantly turning back to count the people. Every 15-20 minutes, he would choose a flat spot for everyone to rest for a few minutes before continuing. After more than an hour, we reached the first station. It was a wooden house with chairs arranged around the walls. They served tea, coffee, and pastries. A couple of Italians, who had previously always lagged behind the group, decided to stop because they couldn't climb any further. They didn't want their delay to affect the others; for them, touching the Holy Mountain was more than enough.

At the second stop, after Mohamed and I had talked quite a bit and become more familiar with each other, he pointed to a camel lying in front of the station and asked if I wanted to try it. The camel belonged to the owner of the tea shop there. Mohamed would negotiate a good price for me. Of course, the camel could only take me to the third stop. After that, visitors still had to climb another 600 steep stone steps to reach the summit. I readily agreed, partly because I was exhausted and partly because I wanted to experience what it felt like to ride a camel up the mountain.

Indeed, riding a camel up the mountain was an unforgettable experience. The initial fear stemmed from the darkness of the path, with a sheer cliff on one side and a ravine on the other, along with narrow and slippery sections. I thought to myself, what if the camel stepped on an unstable rock? Mohamed reassured me: “Don’t worry, camels have excellent memories. They remember every single rock they’ve stepped on along this route. Camels have excellent night vision. There’s never been an accident here before.” I felt somewhat reassured and believed him (though there was really no other way). Once I got used to the feeling of being on the camel’s back, I dared to look up. The deep, dark night sky was dotted with countless twinkling stars, stretching endlessly into the distance, in a strangely tranquil and peaceful atmosphere.

Our group was one of the first to reach the summit. Mohamed constantly encouraged and urged everyone to seize the opportunity and make an effort if they wanted to secure the best viewing spot for the sunrise. He chose a spot on a flat rock platform against the side of the mountain with a fairly wide view. Everyone could sit leaning against the cliff while waiting for the sunrise.

Time seemed to pass slowly. At 6 a.m., in the distance, a pale pink line stretched along the horizon, gradually growing larger and darker, until it became a mottled orange-red. Right in the middle, the sun emerged, large and clear like a giant ball of fire, almost within reach. In an instant, the dawn awakened, shedding the old black cloak of the rolling hills and replacing it with a new, brownish-pink hue that overwhelmed anyone who witnessed it.

As the afternoon descends, visitors can visit another UNESCO World Heritage site located at the foot of the mountain: Catherine Monastery. This is one of the oldest monasteries in the world. Here, visitors can explore the chapel with thousands of priceless artifacts, the ancient well where the prophet Moses met his wife. And most notably, the burning bush, where God appeared in the form of a pillar of fire to call Moses to lead the Israelites across the Red Sea to the promised land, which is present-day Israel.

Until I left, I still couldn't believe I had just touched Sinai, the land of the Bible. And I understood that, somehow, this planet always remains open to those who know how to nurture the dream of setting foot on lands hidden with so many wondrous mysteries.

Additional information:

+ Visa:Visas can be applied for at the Egyptian Embassy in Hanoi. The required documents are detailed and complete, similar to visa applications for developed countries. However, the application and issuance process is easier. The fee is $25 USD for a single-entry visa and $35 USD for multiple-entry visas. If you book through a travel agency in Egypt or are traveling in a group of 10 or more people, you can request a visa on arrival at the airport, at a cost of $65 USD per visa for a single entry and a stay of 30 days.

+ Movement:Buses from Cairo to Sharm El Sheikh are quite cheap, ranging from 5-10 USD depending on the company. Domestic flights on this route are also quite frequent throughout the day, mainly operated by Nile Air and EgyptAir, with round-trip fares ranging from 120-200 USD for a one-hour flight.

+ Transportation:For short trips within the city, taxis are the most suitable option. Taxis operate day and night and are easy to find. Note that some taxis don't have meters, so it's advisable to negotiate the price before getting in.

+ Accommodation:There are many hotels and resorts here, with reasonable prices. 3-4 star hotels in the city center cost from 25-40 USD per night for a double room. Beachfront resorts, depending on star rating, room type, and included services, start from 60 USD per room. A week before departure, you can check reputable booking websites to choose accommodation that suits your budget and trip purpose. Also note: check the hotel locations on a map, as many cheaper options are located quite far from the city center, making transportation inconvenient.

Best time to travel:All months of the year are ideal for visiting here except for June to August, as the weather is very hot. The best time is from October to February of the following year, when the weather is pleasantly cool. Although daytime temperatures can drop to 20 degrees Celsius, the sea water is always warm, ranging from 25-27 degrees Celsius.

+ You should try this:

- Camel Trek to Mount Sinai: Guests ride camels for nearly three hours from the base of the mountain to the third station before climbing over 600 stone steps to the summit to watch the sunrise. Service price: $10 per person.

-One-day glass-bottom boat tour: $50 per person. During the day, guests sit on a glass-bottom boat, use the onboard amenities, and can view coral reefs through the glass at the bottom of the boat.

-Snorkeling service: Guests will be picked up from their hotel at 8:00 AM and taken to the pier, and dropped off at 5:00 PM. The boat will take guests on a day trip, stopping at three different snorkeling spots for one hour each. The cost includes snorkeling equipment, lunch on board, and non-alcoholic drinks: USD 50 per person.

-Scuba diving for PADI certified divers: This service is similar to snorkeling, but at designated diving spots, divers will be provided with scuba diving equipment and will dive under the guidance of a professional instructor. Price: $15 per dive.

-Special service: 1-day all-inclusive boat rental for wedding photography. This service is quite attractive here due to its high-quality service, unique program, and accompanying services, including: a specialized boat that can carry a group of up to 20 people. The boat will take the bride and groom to islands in the area for wedding photos. If you want additional unique underwater wedding photos, you can register for an extra $20 for a set of photos and a DVD. The price is $650 for boat rental, diving equipment, lunch, and non-alcoholic drinks.

+ Costs:Round-trip airfare: 700 USD (flying with Etihad Airways, transiting in Abu Dhabi). The cost for 10 days and 9 nights in Egypt is approximately 890 USD, including the White Desert and Black Desert experiences (2 days and 1 night camping), a 5-star cruise ship to and from Cairo-Aswan (5 days and 4 nights on the Nile River), a 5-star Luxor-Cairo train, and major attractions (Temple of Iris, Abu Simbel Temple, Edfu, Hatshepsut, pyramids, Cairo Museum).

The cost for a 3-day, 2-night trip to the Sinai Peninsula is approximately $240, including a trekking tour up Mount Sinai, a visit to the ancient Catherine Monastery, a one-day scuba diving trip, transportation, and meals.

Thanh Cao: Travel blogger, photographer

Having achieved success in management positions at multinational companies and corporations, his passion for "travel and writing" led him to step out of his comfort zone and truly immerse himself in journeys of discovery. With the motto "Travel to truly touch the places you visit and return with some change," his reports, essays, and especially his photographs always showcase the authentic beauty of the roads, cultural landmarks, local architecture, people, and life in the places he has traveled.

Thanh Cao is currently a regular contributor to the travel sections of many newspapers and magazines, and is also the founder of OffTrack Travel, a company operating in the tourism industry.

Text and photos: Thanh Cao

The Thanh