VI
EN
Queueing in line in Chiang Mai in the middle of the night to wait for a plate of roti
Around 6 p.m., as the last rays of sunlight faded from the ancient walls of the Old Town, a street corner near the Tha Phae gate began to fill. In front of a small stall with the sign "Roti Pa Day," a long line of people stretched to the edge of the street. There were no tables or chairs, no fancy signage, just a stainless steel cart, a white light, and a menu board covered in Thai and English.
But it is one of the street bakeries that has been included in Michelin Guide Thailand's Bib Gourmand list for six consecutive years, from 2021 to 2026.
Every evening, long lines of tourists stand around the bakery.
Tourists come here not only for roti – a popular Thai dish – but also out of curiosity to know what made a roadside stall receive a Michelin rating. In the queue, you can hear a variety of languages: English, Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Vietnamese… Asian customers make up the majority, especially during peak tourist season. Many people intently observe and film every step of the toasting process at the stall.
The wait time isn't short. On busy evenings, it can take 20-30 minutes, or even longer. But people remain patient, as if the experience begins right from the moment they queue.
The bakery attracts many tourists who come to enjoy its offerings.
This bakery has been featured on Michelin's Bib Gourmand list for six consecutive years.
Order, pay, and wait.
The experience at Roti Pa Day has its own unique style. Customers don't order directly. Small stacks of numbered slips of paper are placed on the counter. Each person writes down their desired dish: egg roti, banana roti, chocolate banana roti, cheese roti, banana roti with egg and Nutella… then sticks it back on the counter and waits.
A small row of white sheets of paper is arranged vertically in front of the counter, like a waiting list. The owner calls out numbers in order, and customers wait until their number on the order slip is called, then go to the counter, pay, and receive their order. This system ensures that the large number of customers each evening is served in turn, even without staff directly taking orders.
Customers write their own orders and wait to receive their food.
However, due to the large number of visitors, especially international tourists, waiting times are often long. The wait becomes an integral part of the experience, a mix of excitement and curiosity.
The woman behind the pancake pan and the Michelin star.
Behind the wok is Sapparayan Rakprapaphan, the owner and the person who has been making roti for over 30 years. She stands out with her red glasses, traditional headscarf, colorful outfit, and apron. Her movements are so skillful that she often doesn't need to look.
Ms. Sapparayan Rakprapa - owner of a roti shop with over 30 years of experience.
A small ball of dough is gently pressed, stretched by hand, rotated, and then dropped onto a stainless steel surface. Fillings are added as desired, then the dough is neatly wrapped and placed on a pan of sizzling oil. A distinct sizzling sound is heard, and the fragrant aroma of butter fills the confined space.
The pancakes are flipped with two metal spatulas, their outer surfaces gradually turning a golden brown. Once cooked, they are placed on paper plates, cut into small squares, and drizzled with condensed milk or chocolate as desired.
The square roti breads are fried until golden brown and crispy on the pan.
The moment of receiving a hot plate of roti after a long wait is usually accompanied by a distinct feeling of satisfaction. Tourists stand right on the sidewalk, under the warm yellow lights, savoring each piece of roti, crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, with its rich and sweet flavor spreading quickly on the tongue.
It's rare for such a small food stall to be included in the Michelin Guide's Bib Gourmand list. This list celebrates establishments offering high-quality food at reasonable prices. In a context where many still associate Michelin with high-end restaurants, Roti Pa Day proves that street food can also make its way onto the international culinary map.
Chocolate roti and banana-cheese roti
When a roadside bakery becomes a destination.
Roti is a widely available dish in Thailand, especially popular in the evenings. However, not every stall attracts such long queues from tourists. In Chiang Mai, Roti Pa Day has become a familiar stop on any nighttime culinary exploration.
On the menu board posted in front of the cart, prices range from 15 to 50 baht, depending on the topping. The difference isn't huge, but the choices are very diverse, from traditional versions to modern combinations like Nutella or cheese.
A publicly available price list with affordable prices.
Despite the wait, most visitors left with smiles and empty paper plates. Perhaps it was the feeling of participating in a street "ritual"—writing on a piece of paper, waiting for a number, receiving a pastry—that made the experience complete.
In Chiang Mai, amidst the countless stalls and bustling night markets, Roti Pa Day doesn't stand out in terms of size. But thanks to its Michelin recognition and the long queues that draw people in every evening, this small stall has become a must-visit destination for many tourists coming to this northern Thai city.
