To Ben Tre, a place of floating rivers and waterways.

From Ho Chi Minh City, after more than an hour's drive, the landmarks of Long An and Tien Giang provinces passed by, until the Rach Mieu bridge, spanning from Tien Giang to Ben Tre, appeared right in front of me. I was greeted by a continuous stream of shops displaying local specialties such as coconut cakes, coconut candy, pressed bananas, bananas stir-fried with coconut, Son Doc puffed rice cakes, freshwater shrimp, and various other coconut-based gifts.

Why is this land named Bamboo but planted entirely with coconut trees? Quang, a tour guide with over 20 years of experience, recounts an anecdote: Long ago, this land was formed primarily from three large islets: Minh, Bao, and An Hoa. These islets received the fertile alluvial soil from the Mekong River, creating this land. Because this area is close to the sea, the alluvial soil is blown by the wind, forming high, undulating mounds of land that resemble waves. Because it's sandwiched between the river and the sea, the soil on these mounds is also tinged with the salty taste of minerals and the rich, earthy flavor of the murky, silt-laden mud. Therefore, the soil here is incredibly fertile, making any fruit grown here delicious. Legend has it that while fleeing the Qing dynasty from Guangdong to the South, a Ming general named Yang Yan Di, passing through Binh Dinh in Central Vietnam, recognized the coconut tree's high nutritional value and the precious, sweet water it provided. He filled his boats with coconuts to use as both a water and food reserve. With the permission of Lord Hien to settle in the land of the indigenous people of Thuy Chan Lap at Kompong Ruusei (meaning "Soc Tre" in ancient Khmer, later known as Ben Tre by the Vietnamese), he planted coconut trees. Gradually, the coconut tree spread and became a characteristic tree of Soc Tre!

Arriving at Phu Chanh village, we strolled to visit a brick kiln, estimated to be over a century old, nestled quietly by the cool, green riverbank. According to the locals, brickmaking is traditionally a male occupation, but here, women make up over 70% of the workforce. All day long, these women toil in the sun, rain, and dust for meager wages. The sweetness of the coconut in my hand suddenly turned bitter as I listened to the touching story of these women from the coconut-growing region.

We continued on to a small wooden boat. One by one, the boat gently carried us through the cool, green canals, lined with dense rows of water coconut trees like welcoming arms, the strong wind blowing across the river creating a serene atmosphere. Going deeper into the river, a peaceful scene unfolded, beautiful as a painting, with the green of the water coconut trees interspersed with a few drooping mangrove trees, all swaying in the breeze as if showing off their beauty to the sky. The tranquil scenery blended together to create a fresh, cool atmosphere.

"Show me the tools that the people of Ben Tre use to catch fish," Quang said. "The locals look at the shape of the tools and give them different names, such as: bottom trawling, trap making, setting nets, 12 gates of hell, net traps, fishing boats, etc. During high tides (around the 15th or 30th of the lunar month), when the tide goes down, along these canals you will see people weaving through the rows of water coconut trees along the riverbanks."They use the canals to catch coconut gobies for shelter. I don't know if the gobies eat coconuts or not, but I assure you, the coconut goby stewed with pepper from Ben Tre is incredibly delicious; you'll remember it forever after just one bite.

The boat stopped for a visit to a coconut processing facility. After getting acquainted with the host family, we were all amazed to see the workers peeling coconuts, cracking them open to extract the water, and prying out the flesh with incredible speed and efficiency. It was impressive to learn that each worker peeled up to 1,800 coconuts a day. Trying to learn how to peel coconuts, we all gave up because no one could separate the fibers from the fruit. Practice makes perfect!

Continuing our journey, the boat took us to Nhon Thanh market. Bidding farewell to the boatman with a genuine smile, we strolled through the famous mat weaving village in Ben Tre. Tuong, the tour leader, invited everyone onto a rather unusual-looking motorized rickshaw. The entire group sped along the shady village roads, the silhouettes of fruit orchards, rice paddies, gardens, and vegetable patches whizzing past. After more than half an hour of cruising, we stopped to continue our river journey, but this time starting on a majestic wooden boat called Le Jarai.

Gazing at the 4-star wooden boat, Tuong thoughtfully recounted how, 16 years ago, during a survey of the lower Mekong River, tourism investors realized that the vast waterways and the unique garden culture of the region would be a distinctive highlight for tourists from all continents to explore the Southwestern countryside. Therefore, a pair of wooden boats, resembling traditional Vietnamese boats, were born in Ben Tre. These "lovebirds" aspired to be like giant ducks slowly carrying tourists along the majestic river, but ultimately, they had to part ways: one had to return to Can Tho and the other had to venture to Chau Doc. And now, after nearly 16 years of wandering, the Le Jarai boat has returned to its original destination.

Slowly, the boat drifted gently along the river, a cool breeze blowing, and rows of lush green mangrove trees passed by us. At this moment, a delicious meal was served. The meal was truly delightful, featuring rustic dishes from the countryside such as pomelo salad, spring rolls, sour fish soup, and a glass of sweet orange juice.

After more than two hours of cruising, the boat glided smoothly along the long stretch of river before gradually reaching the shore. The moments of leisurely enjoyment on the Mekong River were coming to an end. We said goodbye to the charming Le Jarai waitresses with their lovely smiles. A fleeting moment of wistfulness settled in my mind as I left behind the image of their hair – the deep green coconut trees brushing against the river heavy with silt.

-----------------------------------------------

Additional information:

Currently, the Ben Tre river tour, "Le Jarai tour," is exclusively designed by Buffalo Travel Company. The tour costs approximately 2,600,000 VND per person.

When traveling to Ben Tre, you can buy coconut products such as coconut candy, coconut jam, and coconut cakes, which are very delicious and unique.

+ If you want to travel independently, you can go by motorbike or private car. Accommodation costs around 300,000 VND per room for two people.

The Thanh