Far north Russia, where dreams are frozen.

27/02/2022

In the far north of Russia, legends and lives stand still—frozen in time. Follow photographer Evgenia Arbugaeva back to her homeland, where the haunting beauty and harshness of the Arctic nature are still preserved.

There is a saying here that,As long as the blood of the far north flows in one's veins, that land will always call out to them.

Evgenia Arbugaeva spent her childhood running around the tundra, watching the aurora borealis on her way to school under the polar night sky.

Years ago, she left her hometown of Tikis, a remote seaport on the Laptev coast of Russia, to live in big cities and different countries. But as the old saying goes, the Arctic called. She longed for its isolation and slow pace of life. In the icy far north, her imagination soared like the wind, unhindered. Every object became a symbol, every color held meaning.

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It's the same with the people I photograph. Sometimes, I think of their stories as chapters in a book, revealing different dreams, but all connected by a love for this land. There's a hermit who imagines living on a ship at sea, and a young woman who longs to live with her loved one on the edge of the world. There's a community still preserving the past and the future, following traditions and recounting the myths of their ancestors. Finally, there's the dream of exploring and conquering the polar regions of the former Soviet Union. Each dream has its own unique color palette and atmosphere. Each person who stays here has a reason to stay.

The first dream belonged to Vyacheslav Korotki. He was the station chief of the old Khodovarikha Meteorological Station, on an isolated peninsula in the Barents Sea – a barren, arid land which Korotki described as feeling like a ship.

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When Evgenia first met him, she immediately recognized the canvas jacket he was wearing, the kind all men wore in her hometown during the Soviet era. Mr. Korotki was apolyarnik- This means he is an expert on the Arctic region, and has dedicated his entire life to working in the Arctic. To this day, he still works as a weather reporter.

Vào một ngày yên tĩnh và lặng gió, Vyacheslav Korotki lênh đênh một mình trên chiếc thuyền tự làm, ở một vùng vịnh hẹp ngoài biển Barents, gần Trạm khí tượng Khodovarikha.

On a calm, windless day, Vyacheslav Korotki was drifting alone in his homemade boat in a narrow bay off the Barents Sea, near the Khodovarikha Meteorological Station.

Outside the station, Evgenia could hear the ice shifting and the wind whistling through the radio wires, sounding like someone playing a flute. Inside, it was silent, only the footsteps of Korotki and the creaking of the door marking the passage of time. Every three hours, he would go outside, then return, muttering to himself as he observed: "Southwest wind, 12 meters per second, gusts up to 18 meters, getting stronger, pressure dropping, a snowstorm is coming." Then he would report all of this to a man he had never met, on the other end of the crackling old radio.

One day, Evgenia felt weary. The polar night filled her thoughts with confusion. She brought Korotki a cup of tea and asked how he managed to live there, alone, day after day repeating the same routine.

He said to me, "You expect too much, everyone does. But not every day is the same. Look, today the aurora borealis is so bright, and there's even a rare phenomenon of thin ice covering the sea. Isn't it wonderful to see the stars tonight? They've been hiding behind the clouds for a whole week." I felt guilty for focusing too much on myself and forgetting to observe the outside world. Since then, I've learned to look at everything with delight.

Chú vẹt Kesha, một món quà năm mới từ NAG Evgenia Arbugaeva, cùng làm bạn với Korotki khi ông đang nghỉ ăn trưa.

Kesha the parrot, a New Year's gift from NAG Evgenia Arbugaeva, kept Korotki company while he took his lunch break.

Chiếc radio cũ giúp Korotki báo cáo dữ liệu về nhiệt độ và lượng mưa tới trạm khí tượng ở thành phố gần nhất, Arkhangelsk, cách đó 500 dặm.

The old radio helped Korotki report temperature and rainfall data to the meteorological station in the nearest city, Arkhangelsk, 500 miles away.

Mô hình ngọn hải đăng mà Korotki xây từ các que diêm, được đặt trên một cuốn sách tham khảo từ thời Liên Xô có tên

The model of the lighthouse that Korotki built from matchsticks is placed on a Soviet-era reference book called "Dynamics of Sea Ice".

Korotki đi về phía một ngọn hải đăng đã ngừng hoạt động hơn 10 năm trước. Khi thiếu củi, ông sẽ cạy các tấm gỗ của ngọn hải đăng để sưởi ấm.

Korotki walked towards a lighthouse that had been out of service for over 10 years. When he ran out of firewood, he would pry off the wooden planks of the lighthouse to keep warm.

For a month, Evgenia lived with a young couple – Evgenia Kostikova and Ivan Sivkov – who were collecting meteorological data in another frigid region on the edge of Russia. Kostikova had invited her beloved Sivkov to join her north, after a year together in a Siberian city. They came here, monitoring the weather, chopping wood, cooking, tending the lighthouse, and caring for each other. Their only source of medical assistance was a distant helicopter, which could take weeks to arrive if the weather turned bad. Kostikova called her mother almost daily, but because there was so little to talk about, she often just told her mother to put the phone on speaker and go about her chores as usual. Kostikova would sit there and listen to the sounds from home, far away.

"I often bring snacks like chocolate and fruit," Evgenia said. "These little things are as precious as gold in the Arctic; they bring a radiant smile to Kostikova's face. She wraps each apple in newspaper, as if they were made of crystal."

Kostikova giữ ấm bằng một bộ tản nhiệt nhỏ khi đọc sách. Năm 19 tuổi, cô bắt đầu làm việc tại trạm địa cực đầu tiên, và ngay lập tức biết rằng Bắc Cực là nơi cô thuộc về.

Kostikova keeps warm with a small radiator while reading. At 19, she began working at the first polar station and immediately knew that the Arctic was where she belonged.

“Bên rìa thế giới” - đó là dòng chữ Ivan Sivkov viết bằng sơn trắng lên tấm lán để đồ bằng gỗ.

"On the edge of the world" - that's what Ivan Sivkov wrote in white paint on the wooden shed where he kept his belongings.

Kostikova và Sivkov, cùng với chú chó Dragon, thu thập các mẫu nước để đo độ mặn của nước biển xung quanh bán đảo Kanin.

Kostikova and Sivkov, along with their dog Dragon, collect water samples to measure the salinity of the seawater around the Kanin Peninsula.

Kostikova và Sivkov tiến về phía ngọn hải đăng, ngọn hải đăng dường như đang bay lên giữa cơn bão tuyết. Đây là một trong số ít những ngọn hải đăng còn sót lại ở Bắc Cực.

Kostikova and Sivkov approached the lighthouse, which seemed to be floating amidst the snowstorm. It was one of the few lighthouses remaining in the Arctic.

Perhaps partly due to their near-total isolation, the 300 Chukchi people in the village of Enurmino still maintain ancient traditions, living far offshore like their ancestors, believing in myths and legends passed down through generations. For the Chukchi, being a hunter is an honor. The villagers hunt walruses and whales to survive the long winter, but they still adhere to quotas set by the Russian Federation and internationally.

Những người thợ săn Chukchi trở về nhà sau khi săn được một con cá voi xám để lấy thịt. Trên hành trình trở về, theo truyền thống, họ giữ im lặng, chỉ suy nghĩ trong tâm trí, cầu xin sự tha thứ của con cá, và giải thích lý do tại sao họ cần phải đi săn.

The Chukchi hunters return home after hunting a gray whale for its meat. On the journey back, traditionally, they remain silent, thinking only in their minds, asking for the whale's forgiveness, and explaining why they needed to hunt.

Một hộp sọ hải mã nằm trên bàn trong nhà một thợ săn người Chukchi. Thịt hải mã là thực phẩm chính của cộng đồng Chukchi, họ được phép săn bắn đối với hải mã và cá voi theo hạn ngạch hàng năm.

A walrus skull sits on a table in the home of a Chukchi hunter. Walrus meat is a staple food for the Chukchi community, who are allowed to hunt walruses and whales according to annual quotas.

Nikolai Rovtin chìm trong suy nghĩ sau khi kể về người vợ của mình, bà đã qua đời vào năm 2019. Hiện ông sống một mình tại một trạm thời tiết bỏ hoang.

Nikolai Rovtin fell into deep thought after talking about his wife, who passed away in 2019. He now lives alone in an abandoned weather station.

Cô bé Vika Taenom mặc chiếc váy Chukchi truyền thống gọi là kamleika, tập một điệu nhảy truyền thống tại trung tâm văn hóa của làng Enurmino.

Vika Taenom, wearing a traditional Chukchi dress called a kamleika, practices a traditional dance at the cultural center of Enurmino village.

The dream of Soviet greatness is now shrouded in frost in Dikson, on the Kara Sea coast. In its heyday of the 1980s, it was known as Russia's Arctic capital, but since the collapse of the Soviet Union, Dikson has become almost a ghost town.

For the first few weeks, I felt disappointed with the photos I took in the endless darkness of Dikson. But then, suddenly, the aurora borealis blazed across the sky, painting everything in neon hues for hours. There was a statue of a soldier captured just as the aurora turned green, looking like Frankenstein's monster escaping from Mary Shelley's book to the lonely Arctic. Then the aurora faded, and the town slowly disappeared back into the darkness, until it was no longer visible.

Cực quang tạo nên một vầng sáng xanh thần kì bao phủ bức tượng ở quảng trường thành phố Dikson.

The aurora borealis created a magical blue glow that enveloped the statue in Dikson City Square.

"I imagine music playing and stars twinkling simultaneously after I step into this room."

Một con búp bê thủ công ngồi tựa vào bệ cửa sổ lạnh giá của một ngôi trường bỏ hoang ở Dikson. Những năm 1980, thị trấn này là nơi cư trú của khoảng 5.000 người.

A handcrafted doll sits leaning against the cold windowsill of an abandoned school in Dikson. In the 1980s, this town was home to about 5,000 people.

Những đứa trẻ cuối cùng đến trường ở mảnh đất này đều đã trưởng thành, nhưng sách giáo khoa của chúng vẫn mở tung, như bị đóng băng bởi thời gian.

The last children to attend school in this land have all grown up, but their textbooks remain open, as if frozen in time.

An translation - Text and photos: Evgenia Arbugaeva
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