VI
Before arriving in Antwerp (Antwerpen in Dutch and Anvers in French), I already knew of the city's unique name through the legend of the giant Druon Antigoon. This giant would often stop merchant ships at the mouth of the Scheldt River to demand "tolls." Those who refused to pay would have one of their hands chopped off by Druon Antigoon and thrown into the river!
The story of Druon Antigoon's tyrannical deeds reached Silvius Brabo, a young Roman soldier. Silvius defeated Druon Antigoon and cut off the giant's hand, throwing it into the Scheldt River as revenge for his victims. Therefore, Antwerp, in Old Dutch and English, means "to throw away the hand"! Today, in the middle of the city's large Grote Markt square, you will find a statue of the young Silvius Brabo spinning and throwing away the hand of the wicked Druon Antigoon.
Antwerp was the final city on my Amsterdam – Brussels – Bruges – Ghent – Antwerp itinerary during my Western Europe trip at the end of 2017. Some friends thought I was being a bit "generous" with visiting a city less frequently mentioned by tourists when they come to Belgium, instead of spending more time in the "Venice of the North." But after two days there, I regretted not being able to stay longer.
If you're also planning to explore Belgium's second-largest city this year, you definitely can't miss these 10 things.
1. Admire the architecture of Centraal Station.
Antwerp Central Station is an architectural masterpiece blending various art styles, from Belle Époque to Neo-Renaissance and Art Nouveau. In 2014, Mashable magazine ranked Antwerp Central Station first among the world's most beautiful train stations!
And from here, my walking adventure to explore Antwerp began!
2. Take a stroll around the large Grote Markt square.
Grote Markt is the general name for large squares in Belgium. Antwerp is no exception. Here, in the center of the square, stands a statue of Silvius throwing away the hand of the giant Druon Antigoon. Behind him is the Antwerp Town Hall, built in the 16th century, and to the side are rows of gildenhuis, characteristic of Dutch and Belgian architecture.
Gildenhuis are buildings facing Grote Markt that once served as headquarters and meeting places for old trading guilds. Today, they are repurposed as city tourist offices or small museums.
3. Admire Antwerpfrom above
From Grote Markt square, it's just a short walk to the Cathedral of Our Lady. Built in the 16th century, the cathedral boasts a bell tower 123 meters high, making it the tallest church bell tower in the "Lowlands" (comprising the Netherlands and Belgium).
With such an impressive height, this bell tower took 169 years to complete. And from the top, Antwerp, with its orange roofs, looks tiny, like a miniature toy.
Address: Handschoenmarkt 13
4. Wandering through the narrow alleys of Vlaeykensgang
Vlaeykensgang dates back to the late 16th century, serving as a link between Hoogstraat and Oude Koornmarkt. I arrived early in the morning, while the whole city was still fast asleep. It was well worth getting up early and walking back and forth several times to find this small alley, Vlaeykensgang.
As soon as I stepped inside, I wanted to shout with delight. Vlaeykensgang looked as beautiful as a postcard from a bygone era, suddenly discovered in an old jewelry box stored in the attic.
The morning chill made the sweet scent of laundry detergent from somewhere linger, unwilling to dissipate, while the warm aroma of freshly brewed coffee filled the air. I wished my house was in this strange yet familiar little alley!
Address: Oude Koornmarkt 16
5.Discover the history of the Plantin-Moretus printing press.
The Plantin-Moretus Museum is built on the very foundations of the 16th-century house and printing workshop of the French merchant Christophe Plantin. He arrived in Antwerp in 1550, and in 1555 founded the Officina Plantiniana printing house – the world's first book printing and publishing house.
In 1876, Edward Moretus, a descendant of the Moretus family, sold the entire house and printing press to the city authorities on the condition that the city transform it into a museum dedicated to his family. In 2005, and to this day, the Plantin-Moretus Museum is the first museum in the world to be recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
Address: Vrijdagmarkt 22
6.Visiting the home of the famous painter Rubens (Rubenhuis)
Living between the 16th and 17th centuries, Peter Paul Rubens was a renowned Dutch Baroque painter, and was influenced by the Italian master Rafael.
During his lifetime, this house was like his own "territory." It was where he lived and worked in his studio, where he welcomed his children into the world and watched them grow up. It was also where he received many distinguished guests, including members of the royal family.
His house, now the Ruibenshuis Museum, accurately reflects Rubens' character and personality: an eloquent and sociable man, fluent in many languages. But at home, he was simply a middle-aged man who sought nothing more than the comfort of his family.
Address: Wapper 9-11
7.30 minutes at Het Steen Castle
Located on the banks of the Scheldt River is Steen Castle (Het Steen in Dutch). It's the oldest building in Antwerp, dating back to the 11th century. You might be wondering why I spent 30 minutes at Het Steen? Because it houses the world's oldest hourglass, and the sand flows through it every 30 minutes!
Right at the entrance to Het Steen Castle stands a statue of Semini, the god of youth and fertility in Norse mythology. Legend says that women in Antwerp would pray to Semini hoping to conceive, and that's why the people of Antwerp used to consider themselves "descendants of Semini."
Address: Steenplein 1
8.Antwerp-style waffles and apple pie (appelbeignet)
Belgium is famous for its waffle, a type of sponge cake topped with whipped cream, fruit, and sauce.chocolateHowever, different regions in Belgium have their own unique style of waffle. Personally, I'm obsessed with the Antwerp-style waffle, which I ate at a shop frequented by a hotel employee where I stayed.
Désiré de Lille is a small café and pastry shop in Antwerp that dates back to 1903. It specializes in Belgian and Dutch pastries, tea and coffee, and light snacks throughout the day. I visited twice in the afternoon, and it was always crowded. But in a foreign city, if you go to a café where you're the only foreign tourist, that's a place you know you should come back to again!
Antwerp-style waffles have a light and airy batter, not as thick and "heavy" as Brussels-style waffles. The waffles at this eatery are special with fresh cream and a scoop of vanilla ice cream, topped with a brown sauce made from liqueur and a touch of special bee pollen essence, giving them a fragrant and subtly sweet taste.
Address: Schrijnwerkersstraat 16
9.Enjoy "3-Michelin-star" French fries.
Despite having an English nameFrench friesBut Belgium is actually the birthplace of the world-famous French fries. French fries in Belgium are a cheap and very popular street food. For around 6 Euros, you get a huge portion with a variety of delicious sauces to choose from. So why would you spend nearly 13 Euros on a tiny portion of fries at Frites Atelier Amsterdam?
The secret lies in the fact that the owner of this "fancy" fries shop – Sergio Herman – is a 3-Michelin-star chef who cooked for over 20 years at a high-end restaurant in Zeeland. After all those years in the kitchen, one day he decided to leave the kitchen and… sell fries. And so, in Antwerp, I had the chance to enjoy the best fries ever: fries served with Flanders-style beef stew and mayonnaise.
Address: Korte Gasthuisstraat 32
10.Hand-shaped cakes andchocolateBelgium
When talking about Belgium, it's impossible not to mention...chocolateAnd Antwerp is no exception.
Unlike other storeschocolatelarge quantities for tourists, like in Brussels or Bruges, each shopchocolatein Antwerp is onegalleryA captivating miniature, with a glass case illuminated in yellow light, displaying gemstones.chocolateThe glossy brown color looks beautiful and sophisticated, like expensive jewelry.
If you are looking for a gift boxchocolate"Belgian standard," with these pillschocolateFor absolute perfection, look no further than Günther Watté.
Besides chocolate, Belgian cookies are also incredibly delicious. The cookies here are often molded into the shape of a hand.handbagThe top is topped with thinly sliced almonds. Some shops even decorate the hand with a few imitation diamonds, combining the legend of the giant Druon Antigoon with the city's history of diamond crafting and appraisal.
At the end of my trip to the lowlands, my suitcase contained a box full of...handbagThese cookies, with their delightful vanilla and almond aroma, were bought from Philip's Biscuit. On chilly days in Norway, there's nothing better than sitting by a crackling fireplace, savoring these cookies.handbagSharing a cup of hot tea with my lifelong partner, I brave the wind and rain outside.
Günther Watté address: Steenhowversvest 30
Philip's Biscuit address: Korte Gasthuisstraat 39.
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Additional information:
+Trip:From Brussels, you can reach Antwerp by train, which takes about 45 minutes. This is the most convenient way to travel. You can buy train tickets directly at the Gare du Midi (Gare Zuid) station in Brussels.
+Instructions:Antwerp is the second largest city in Belgium with a population of around half a million. Located in the Flanders region, Dutch is the primary language. However, locals speak English very well.
+Sightseeing:
- The entrance fee to the Rubensshuis Museum is 8 Euros. If you still have your train ticket to Antwerp for the day, you will get a 2 Euro discount.
- The entrance fee to the Plantin-Moretus Museum is 8 Euros.
From Antwerp Centraal, you can take the metro to Meir station to visit Rubensshuis, then walk to the rest of the city.
+Note:
- If you're traveling in a large group, please be quiet when you arrive in Vlaeykensgang because the alley is quite narrow, and conversations can be very loud.
The fries at Frites Atalier Amsterdam are quite large. You could eat them for dinner.
