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The Vietnamese ao dai has long been a symbol of culture, history, and national pride. Through the many changes of time, the ao dai has not only preserved its traditional values but has also continuously evolved to suit the rhythm of modern life.
The historical journey of the Ao Dai
The ao dai is not just a garment, but also a symbol of Vietnamese history and culture. According to many studies, as early as the 17th century, Lord Nguyen Phuc Khoat laid the foundation for the modern ao dai when he issued regulations on clothing, helping to shape the style of the five-panel ao dai, one of the precursors of the modern ao dai.
The five-panel ao dai consists of two pieces of fabric sewn together to form a modest front panel, with an additional panel underneath on the right side. The four outer panels symbolize the four parents: one's own parents and the parents of one's lover, while the fifth panel represents the wearer. The ao dai always has five buttons, representing the Vietnamese moral principles of humanity, propriety, righteousness, wisdom, and trustworthiness.
The 20th century marked a major turning point when the ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) was modernized by artists Cat Tuong (Le Mur) and Le Pho. Le Mur's ao dai, with its form-fitting design, puffed sleeves, and plunging neckline, had a Western feel, while Le Pho's ao dai retained traditional features with a high collar and flowing, long skirt. These changes not only made the ao dai more elegant and alluring but also suited contemporary trends.
Modern ao dai, or Lemur ao dai, appeared in the 1930s, designed by artist Nguyen Cat Tuong. He created various styles and shapes: with or without collars, with or without sleeves, with puffed shoulders or flat shoulders, with or without flared cuffs, with or without buttons, with or without long hems, and with or without short hems…
The ao dai is a harmonious blend of traditional beauty and modern creativity. The traditional ao dai, with its two flowing panels, modest high collar, and soft silk fabric, has become a symbol of grace and elegance. The poet Nguyen Sa once wrote:"The Saigon sun felt cool as I walked by / Because you were wearing a silk dress from Ha Dong.", as a tribute to the gentle and refined beauty of the ao dai dress.
However, in today's era, the ao dai is no longer limited to traditional designs. The emergence of modernized ao dai with low necklines, shorter skirts, or in denim and chiffon materials has brought a breath of fresh air, attracting young people. Within this trend, there are those who strive to preserve and promote the beauty of the ao dai, including MC Tung Leo. He shared: "We are not modernizing the ao dai, but rather making it more suitable for the times. That is the most accurate phrase."
MC Tung Leo
Preserving the spirit of the ao dai in the modern era.
Today, the ao dai is no longer just women's attire for special occasions; it's gradually making a comeback for men and gaining popularity among young people. Modernized ao dai designs are increasingly appearing, offering convenience while retaining the original beauty. However, the line between creativity and the loss of traditional values has become a matter for serious consideration.
"Instead of designing a modernized ao dai, we are actually designing a modern outfit based on the inspiration of the ao dai. To call it a true ao dai, we must preserve its original form: the long skirt, the soft lines, and the balance of yin and yang in every detail," MC Tung Leo emphasized.
Modernized versions of the ao dai are becoming increasingly common, offering convenience while still retaining its original beauty.
In the Vietnamese fashion industry, designers like Si Hoang and Minh Hanh have taken significant steps in preserving the identity of the ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress). They not only preserve traditional values but also bring the ao dai closer to young people through unique collections that are deeply rooted in national spirit yet timeless.
Designer Si Hoang has dedicated over 30 years of his career to honoring and celebrating the beauty of the ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress).
Ao Dai and national pride
Every time Vietnamese people see the flowing áo dài (traditional Vietnamese dress) on the street, they feel a deeper connection to their homeland. More than just clothing, the áo dài embodies national pride. MC Tùng Leo recounted: "When I go abroad and wear an áo dài, I feel like I'm not simply an individual, but representing Vietnamese culture. That feeling is truly sacred."
Therefore, promoting the ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) is not just the responsibility of designers or artists, but a shared responsibility of everyone. In recent years, the trend of wearing ao dai during Tet (Vietnamese New Year), at important events, or even in daily life has become increasingly popular. It's not uncommon to see young people wearing ao dai while strolling the streets, taking photos, or participating in festivals. This shows that the ao dai has not been forgotten but is making a strong comeback, fitting in with contemporary tastes.
National pride is also expressed through the way Vietnamese people preserve and promote the value of the ao dai (traditional Vietnamese dress).
National pride is also reflected in how Vietnamese people preserve and promote the value of the ao dai (traditional Vietnamese dress). Despite many variations, the core essence of the ao dai remains: its flowing skirt, modesty, and elegance. Designer Si Hoang, one of the pioneers in modernizing the ao dai, once said: "Designing the ao dai is about honoring the true value of the ao dai, while still being relevant to the times."
The mission of the younger generation in preserving the ao dai.
Besides wearing the ao dai, many young people also participate in research and restoration projects on traditional Vietnamese clothing to better understand its history. Cultural groups such as "Vietnamese Village Temples," "Vietnam Centre," and young designers have been contributing to promoting the ao dai and traditional Vietnamese clothing to the world.
"Young people today not only wear the ao dai but also understand and research it. This is a positive sign, because only when we deeply understand something can we preserve and develop it properly," shared MC Tung Leo.
Not only confined to the domestic market, the Vietnamese ao dai is increasingly appearing on international fashion runways, becoming a source of pride as it is embraced by the international community. Designs inspired by the ao dai have been incorporated into collections by major fashion houses such as Chanel and Dior, proving the allure of the Vietnamese garment on the global fashion map.
Building upon the basic form of the traditional ao dai dress, designer Nguyen Cong Tri meticulously handcrafted each motif, each flower petal, and each sparkling bead in his "Beloved Coco" collection.
The ao dai is not just a garment, but also a story about history, culture, and national spirit. Preserving the ao dai doesn't mean confining it to the past, but bringing it closer to the present and future. As MC Tung Leo said, "Preserving the ao dai isn't difficult, but designing a truly authentic ao dai is very challenging. Don't just stop at wearing the ao dai; understand and appreciate its value."
The Vietnamese ao dai has been, is, and will forever be a symbol of traditional beauty, national pride, and boundless creativity. And as long as the flowing ao dai can still be seen on the streets, the spirit of the homeland remains intact in every step of the Vietnamese people.
