Jiuzhaigou, the most beautiful season

Jiuzhaigou has long been a famous scenic spot, ranked 5A – the highest rating for tourism in China. This area was also recognized by UNESCO as a World Natural Heritage Site in 1992 and a World Biosphere Reserve in 1997.

However, after the earthquake on August 8, 2017, Jiuzhaigou was closed indefinitely for ecosystem restoration, leaving many regretful and worried that a magnificent natural landscape might never be as it once was. I was no exception. So, in late September, when I heard that Jiuzhaigou had recovered about 80% and reopened to tourists, I was overjoyed and surprised that this opportunity came so early in the late autumn and early winter.

The road to "paradise"

My flight to Chengdu was late at night, so I stayed overnight in Chengdu and then spent the entire next day traveling to Jiuzhaigou. The journey from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou was so captivating that I didn't sleep a wink, just admiring the majestic mountain ranges, taking pictures of herds of mountain goats and yaks grazing on the slopes; and marveling at the apple and plum orchards of the Qiang people in the Aba Autonomous Prefecture (who traditionally practiced nomadic farming).

Along this journey, we also took the opportunity to stop and visit Diep Khe Lake - a lake formed by landslides blocking the flow of water after the 7.5 magnitude earthquake in 1933, and Mau Ni Cau scenic area - one of the most beautiful scenic spots of Hoang Long Mountain.

The scenery along the way captivated me, but upon entering the scenic area, I was truly mesmerized and speechless by the majestic and breathtaking beauty, truly deserving the name "paradise on earth." I wondered, if Jiuzhaigou is only about 80% restored now, how captivating must it have been in the past…?!

Jiuzhaigou, located in the northern mountainous region of Sichuan Province, is formed on a sedimentary limestone mountain range with altitudes ranging from 2,000 to 4,500 meters above sea level. It boasts 17 waterfalls of varying sizes, approximately 108 high-altitude lakes, and 2,000 plant species. The beauty of Jiuzhaigou changes with each season, each with its own unique characteristics. Most people believe Jiuzhaigou is most beautiful in autumn… But having only witnessed its beauty in winter, I was truly captivated, with the deep blue, emerald-green lakes standing out against the backdrop of a vast expanse of snow-covered landscape.

The Tibetan name "Jiuzhaigou" means "valley of nine villages," referring to the area of ​​nine villages where the Tibetan people have long resided. These villages include Shuzheng Valley, Zechawa Valley, Heijiao Valley, Rize Valley, Panya Valley, Alago Valley, Jianpan Valley, Rexi Valley, and Guodu Valley. Of these, Shuzheng Valley, Zechawa Valley, and Rize Valley have been developed for tourism and their landscape resembles the shape of the letter Y.

The Lake's Symphony

Shuzheng Gou (树正沟), located in the north, is the largest and most prosperous of the nine Tibetan villages in Jiuzhaigou, and also the main tourist route, stretching 14.5 km. What impressed me most here is the rich and beautiful system of lakes, which make up 40% of Jiuzhaigou's total lakes. The Twin Dragon Lake was formed after an earthquake, with two rows of submerged rocks that, when viewed from above, resemble two dragons hiding. Nearby is the Reed Lake, with its peaceful scenery of reeds swaying in the breeze and the gentle sound of water trickling through the reeds. The Fire Flower Lake, surrounded by limestone mountains and dense forests whose leaves change color with the seasons, looks like an emerald gem in the middle of the ancient forest when viewed from above. With its decaying tree trunks, diverse aquatic layers within the lake's depths, and crystal-clear, deep, and mirror-like blue water, Hoa Hoa Lake resembles a gigantic aquatic masterpiece that no artist could possibly create.

Besides the lakes, the largest waterfall in Jiuzhaigou - Nuorilang - and the nine white pagodas known as the Bodhi Lotus Pagodas (symbolizing the unity of the nine Tibetan tribes, praying together for lasting happiness and prosperity) are also the most attractive tourist destinations in Shuzhenggou.

In the southeastern branch of Jiuzhaigou, stretching approximately 18 km, lies Zechawa Gou (则查洼沟). Zechawa Gou boasts Changhai Lake, the deepest and largest lake in Jiuzhaigou, a crescent-shaped lake 7.5 km long and reaching a depth of 103 m. It appears to have been formed by melting ice from the surrounding snow-capped mountains and is the only lake in Jiuzhaigou that freezes over in winter. About 1 km down from Changhai Lake, then a 300 m walk along a trail leads to the Five-Colored Lake. Although the Five-Colored Lake is a small lake within the scenic area, it offers many breathtaking photo and video opportunities. Due to the varying colors of the sediment layers at the bottom of the lake, the water changes color from deep blue to yellow to light blue. Therefore, besides its name, Five-Colored Lake is also known as the "Eye of Jiuzhaigou".

Rize Gou (日则沟) is an 18-kilometer-long valley in western Jiuzhaigou. While perhaps having the fewest attractions, Rize Gou is the most visited, particularly for the Pearl Waterfall. This waterfall is not only famous in China but also very familiar to younger generations in Vietnam, as it was featured in the TV series Journey to the West, with the scene of Tang Sanzang and his disciples wading through the waterfall appearing at the end of each episode.

My trip to Jiuzhaigou was unexpected and unplanned, but it exceeded all my expectations. I was even luckier to witness the late autumn scenery on my visit to Jiuzhaigou and enjoy the early snowfall on the way back.

The snowflakes were so beautiful that it made me feel like I was in a scene from a movie. That didn't satisfy me; instead, it only made me more excited and eager to return to Jiuzhaigou in the snow-covered winter as soon as possible.

Additional information

Visa:China issues a standard visa valid for 3 months, allowing single or multiple entries with stays of 15-30 days per visit. If your trip is longer, consider a 6-month or 1-year visa with no entry restrictions.

TripYou can choose to fly from Hanoi/Ho Chi Minh City to Chengdu and then take a bus for about 8-10 hours to reach Jiuzhaigou.

WeatherJiuzhaigou has a cool climate year-round. Winters are quite cold, with temperatures potentially dropping below 0°C.^oTherefore, you should prepare plenty of warm clothes, thermal shirts, waterproof jackets, and shoes with good grip to prevent slipping.

Means of transportationThe entrance fee to Jiuzhaigou (220 yuan/day) includes bus transportation between attractions within the scenic area. However, you will have to endure crowds of Chinese tourists. Therefore, if you are traveling in a large group and only have one day to visit, you should consider hiring a private vehicle from the tourist area (4,000 yuan/day, including a guide) to easily arrange your desired destinations, saving time and energy.

Cuisine:

• You should try the yak hot pot or a type of catfish in Sichuan-style soy sauce that every restaurant here advertises. The fish meat is very fragrant and fatty, quite similar to the catfish of Vietnam.

• Don't try to order pork because Muslims, Tibetans, and Qiang people don't eat pork, so pork is an expensive dish.

• The water in the lakes is limestone sediment rich in minerals, giving it a beautiful color; however, it is unsuitable for drinking or cooking. All food and drink in Jiuzhaigou is sourced from outside, making it quite expensive. A buffet lunch costs 160 yuan, but it wasn't appealing to me. To save money, you can bring your own food and drinks.

Accommodation:Tourists visiting Jiuzhaigou often choose to stay overnight in Chuanzhu Temple – the central town of Songpan County – as it's easily accessible from there to visit Jiuzhaigou or the famous Huanglong scenic area with the Zhaga waterfall. Accommodation and nightlife services are also abundant in this area. However, solo travelers often choose guesthouses near the entrance to the scenic area for convenience in purchasing tickets the following morning, or they may stay overnight in Tibetan villages within Jiuzhaigou (for longer trips).

Some other notes:

• Currently, Jiuzhaigou limits the number of visitors, welcoming only about 5,000 tourists per day, prioritizing group tours. Individual tickets are only sold in special circumstances. Therefore, to visit Jiuzhaigou during this time, you need to join a tour group or wait until Jiuzhaigou relaxes its ticket sales policy for independent travelers.

• The altitude in Jiuzhaigou is incomparable to Tibet or Shangri-La… However, at an altitude of about 3,000 meters above sea level, some people who are not accustomed to high altitudes may experience headaches, shortness of breath, and dizziness. I was one of them, even though I am in very good health. Therefore, you should buy an oxygen tank for 20-50 yuan to ensure your health and maintain the energy to explore this scenic area.

Bui Viet Ha