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LONG PILGRIMAGE
HOLY SITE OF NEPAL
Kathmandu- bustling yet tranquil
According to ancient legend, this place was once a shimmering lake, and the god Manruxué was so engrossed in sharpening his sword by the lake that the water dried up, leaving behind what is now Kathmandu. We arrived in Kathmandu on a rather leisurely day off, at a time when this city in central Nepal resembled the streets of Hanoi in early spring. A cool breeze swept down into the valley from all sides, making the otherwise tranquil Kathmandu look like a flower nestled at the foot of the Himalayas.
Tourists visiting this area cannot miss the bustling Tanman district, full of foreigners, with its lively atmosphere of an Asian market, a touch of prairie in public spaces, and the hustle and bustle of the industrial age. Colorful Indian scarves, the golden sunshine of the mountain town in winter… all come together.
and blossomed, creating a unique beauty for Kathmandu.
| The early history of Nepal begins in the Kathmandu Valley, which 200,000 years ago was a vast lake. By 300 AD, the Lytravi dynasty had established what is known as Nepal's first golden age, introducing Hinduism and Buddhism to the kingdom. |
Along the streams are rows of shops packed together, souvenirs and fabrics hanging everywhere, spilling onto the street so that passersby cannot accidentally walk past. The art of bronze carving and the creation of souvenirs and religious artifacts in Nepal have truly reached a sublime level. The ancient bronze craftsmen seem to be reviving right on this street, leaving many tourists mesmerized by the blend of ancient and modern, a fascinating mix of local and international colors. Here, Thangka paintings, a distinctive art form of Tibetan Buddhism, are sold everywhere, reminding us that the two streams of Buddhism and Hinduism coexist, nourishing the lives of the Nepalese people with a source of virtue and faith. Wanderers drift from street to street, only to leave with a promise to return to experience more of this.
Kathmandu, in the slow pace of a day in the valley, the hustle and bustle of travelers from all directions, and the thoughts and aspirations of today.
The dwelling place of Hindu gods
From the Kathmandu Valley, you can gaze upon the snow-capped mountains like a magnificent white wall. This capital, nestled deep in the Himalayas, is a treasure trove of mysterious stories, a secluded world of deities, devout people, and extraordinary temples. One such temple we visited was dedicated to the goddess Kali, one of the most famous deities in Hinduism. Statistically, about 86% of Nepal's population follows Hinduism, considered the oldest religion in human history, and this belief is an integral part of daily life for Nepalese people.
According to Hindu beliefs, Kali is a very sacred and bloodthirsty goddess who is both destructive and benevolent, thus she is revered by all. Kali is the patron goddess of Kathmandu. Legend says she is one of the wives of the great destroyer Shiva. Hinduism has three supreme gods, leading millions of other deities: Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. The image of Kali is often depicted with her mouth gaping open, her tongue sticking out, her earrings made of the corpses of men, her necklace of human skulls, and her jewelry of snakes. Beyond her destructive function, the goddess Kali also oversees fertility, being both cruel and benevolent. Even in destruction, she bestows blessings and helps all things to flourish; this represents the two sides of a single issue: the Hindu worldview and cosmology.
The architectural features of temples and palaces in Nepal are characterized by multi-tiered towers with roofs that gradually taper upwards, creating a mysterious and imposing atmosphere. We visited the Radet temple on the banks of a tributary of the Ganges River in the heart of Kathmandu. Inside these temples, one or more Brahmin priests usually sit chanting and bestowing blessings. You will have to pay a small symbolic fee to have a lucky red dot placed on your forehead by the priest, or to hear teachings from the scriptures. These priests belong to the highest caste of society, possess immense spiritual power, and are often hereditary, forming the foundation of a revered religious society.
In Hinduism, there are not only human gods but also gods of animals, plants, objects, and more... all possessing souls, authority, knowledge, supernatural powers, and immense abilities. No one can know all the gods, not even religious leaders or wise men, because each god has many incarnations, endlessly repeating themselves. At the Radet temple complex, there is a very sacred stone where one can pray for healing.
Leaving the capital Kathmandu, we visited the old royal city area, home to the most magnificent and significant architectural structures of the ancient capital of Bharatpur in the lower Himalayas. Upon arriving at these ancient cities, though unfamiliar to our homeland, we all felt a sense of nostalgia and emotion. What mysterious force created this emotional state? It's difficult to answer, but perhaps it's the passage of time. Time has constantly changed the face of the world, creating a sense of longing, a sudden realization. Time is cruel and fair, cold yet benevolent, reminding us, like the god Shiva himself with his warning bell, of the cycle of birth and death. Life always has yin and yang, birth and death, good and evil. This message from Hinduism, and also from Buddhism, reaches every corner of the world, even from the squares and street corners of this ancient capital.
| Time has constantly changed the face of the world, creating a sense of nostalgia, startling us, and awakening us. Time is cruel and fair, cold yet benevolent, reminding us like Shiva himself with his warning bell about the law of birth and death. |
Throughout our journey exploring this sacred land, shrouded in mystery, we experienced countless moments of blissful wonder amidst the unparalleled beauty of nature, whether at dawn or dusk. Having been breathless at the sight of the majestic and powerful Mount Everest, we were now left in awe by the sunrise in the near-absolute stillness of the Nepalese mountains. The night seemed to split in two by the mountain range's cleaved lines against the sky, revealing the magnificent crack of the 7,400-meter-high Ranet peak. In an instant, the sun appeared, and we witnessed a breathtaking transformation on the horizon. In the thin mist, the high peaks remained dreamy, and the valleys below were immersed in a deep slumber.
The early morning in the valley unfolds slowly. Following the trail of each ray of sunlight through the hazy, gloomy mist, in the deep and pure space, the traveler's heart soars as if unintentionally wandering into a fairyland. As we gaze upon these magnificent natural landscapes, we understand that Nepal is subtly and wisely drawing a part of the modern world closer to itself.
Visiting the Buddanat temple complex.
Returning to Kathmandu, we visited a religious site that holds a significant place in the religious life of Nepalese Buddhists. From afar, it's immediately recognizable as a Tibetan Buddhist stupa. Colorful Ha Dat cloths fluttered in the air. The Buddha's eyes were filled with wisdom and power. The echoes of reverence and devotion resounded everywhere. This is the Buddanat stupa, a stupa enshrining the relics of an ancient Buddha. According to the Nepalese people, the Buddanat stupa was built in the 5th century after a princess of the Nepalese king repeatedly begged her father to allow her to build a stupa to worship the ancient Buddha herself, and it has since become a sacred site for Nepalese Buddhists.
Nepal is a country where Buddhism and Hinduism coexist harmoniously, so scattered throughout the area, we can see Buddhist and Hindu relics intertwined. By 1959, the local people regarded the Buddanat stupa as a symbol and one of the most sacred sites outside of Nepal and Tibet. Therefore, every year, many Tibetans come here on pilgrimage. Unlike Buddhist holy sites in India, the Buddhist structures in Nepal bear the strong imprint of Buddhism, primarily Tibetan Buddhism. Taking a stroll around the Buddanat stupa allows one to fully experience the sacred atmosphere of this Tibetan Buddhist holy site and to feel reverence and a deeper spiritual connection to the place.
Throughout our long journey exploring the land and people of the sacred country of Nepal, we truly found ourselves immersed in a labyrinth of Hinduism, so diverse and rich, unique and fascinating, that the further we went, the more we realized the immense scale of Himalayan civilization.
In the birthplace of Buddha
Currently, only 8% of Nepal's population follows Buddhism, while Hinduism accounts for 86%. Yet, this land where the Buddha was born gives us a complete sense that it is a sacred land of Buddhism, that amidst the deep, dark mountains of the Himalayas, the compassionate and wise teachings of Buddhism silently spread through every mountain pass and valley, penetrating human life in every sacred place.
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Nepal is not a Buddhist country, but it is famous for three points of connection to Buddhism. Firstly, it is the birthplace of the Buddha; secondly, Buddhism was introduced to Tibet from this country; and finally, it is the place where the Bodhisattva Manjushri practiced and manifested himself. We continued our pilgrimage to another sacred Buddhist site, Mount Manjushri, located on a high hill in the Xoayabonat region, about 200 km from the capital Kathmandu.
| On this land where the Buddha was born, we are given a complete sense that this is a sacred land of Buddhism, that amidst the deep, dark mountains of the Himalayas, the compassionate and wise teachings of Buddhism silently spread through every mountain pass and valley, penetrating human life in every sacred place. |
From the foot to the summit of Mount Manjushri is a long path of 360 stone steps, winding beautifully beneath the forest canopy. Along the way, there are many clusters of shrines and temples, featuring elaborately crafted and exquisite Buddha statues, mostly made of stone and bronze, with some newer ones made of cement, looking very imposing. According to one legend, the relics of Kasyapa are kept in a large pagoda on this hill, but most believe that the pagoda was built to commemorate the miraculous manifestation of Manjushri.
You can buy these oil-burning candles to offer as sacrifices along the way or at the mountaintop, where there are magnificent temple complexes and pagodas. This is a very typical custom of Tibetan Buddhism, both enchanting and sacred. The needs of Buddhist pilgrims are diverse. For example, people pour molten gold onto white pagodas to paint lotus flowers, fulfilling their wishes through monetary contributions.
The Manjushri stupa complex, constructed from individual bricks with a bronze upper level, is the main architectural feature of the site. The stupa was built during the reign of King Victani and later completed by the Mala dynasty, spanning from the 8th to the 15th centuries. In fact, at this main hall, we saw statues dating back to the 7th century, such as a statue of Siddhartha Gautama (the Buddha). All practitioners of Tantric Buddhism in Nepal consider this to be one of the most spiritually significant locations in the country. Legend says that Manjushri Bodhisattva, the Bodhisattva symbolizing Buddhist wisdom, manifested in this area.
Leaving Nepal with a heart full of affection, a land overflowing with love, the birthplace of Buddha Shakyamuni, we all secretly promised to return to this sacred place on future occasions.
