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WHERE IS BAN RAK THAI, THAILAND LOCATED?
Ban Rak Thai, also known as Mae Aw, is a small village nestled among lush green tea hills in Mae Hong Son province, northern Thailand. It is located just about a kilometer from the Myanmar border. The villagers are mostly of Chinese descent, having migrated here from Yunnan, China, over many generations.
Ban Rak Thai is also known by another name, Mae Aw.
THE WINDING ROADS LEADING TO BAN RAK THAI
I arrived in Ban Rak Thai one afternoon, one of four days I spent conquering the Mae Hong Son Loop, a journey filled with many experiences. The winding, caterpillar-like curves that led to Ban Rak Thai made me sweat. I had spent countless days riding my motorbike in Ha Giang, Vietnam, yet even I felt weak-hearted on this stretch of road.
The journey was truly adventurous. The constant sharp turns made my hands ache. Luckily, the pristine white Wave motorbike I rented in Chiang Mai behaved well and didn't act up on the challenging roads.
The continuous sharp turns made my hands tired.
The weather in Thailand was over 40 degrees Celsius at the time, and I was struggling to drive while also taking in the scenery. As I approached Ban Rak Thai, purple and pink flowers greeted me warmly. Next came lush green cabbage fields. The people near Ban Rak Thai mainly grow cabbage for their livelihood. This area is extremely large, and every house has a cabbage garden. Perhaps, from here, they distribute cabbage throughout the country.
Then the "Welcome to Ban Rak Thai" sign appeared, and the traditional tiled-roof houses of the Yunnan ethnic people came into view. I had really arrived in Ban Rak Thai.
Traditional tile-roofed houses of the Yunnan ethnic group have appeared.
The architectural style is deeply rooted in Yunnan's cultural traditions.
TAKE A STROLL AROUND BAN RAK THAI LAKE
The first thing I did when I arrived in Ban Rak Thai wasn't to sit in a cool tea shop, but to take a motorbike ride around the lake.
The lake in Ban Rak Thai is very clear and blue, with Chinese-style boats below to take tourists. According to the locals, a 45-minute boat ride costs 350 Baht per person. For two people, it's 450 Baht.
On the shore of the lake, a few locals were sitting and fishing. They were waiting for any movement beneath the surface of the lake so they could reel in their catch of the day.
The houses here are built close together, with yin-yang tiled roofs, in the Mahayana Buddhist style. In some sections, the roofs are thatched, and the walls seem to be mainly constructed of earth.
The tranquil lake scenery captivates many visitors.
LEE WINE RUK THAI RESORT
Perhaps, visiting Ban Rak Thai without "raiding" Lee Wine Ruk Thai Resort would be a huge oversight. Because the beautiful scenery you see while kayaking on that clear blue lake is largely concentrated within this resort.
I bought a 20 Baht ticket to visit. Many red lanterns were hung along both sides of the street. At this point, it was impossible to tell the difference between Thai and Chinese territory.
The row on the right consists of still-warm wine vats, while the row on the left features quaint old houses reserved for tourists. Prices for a night can sometimes reach several million dong, but the area is always fully booked. Visitors can only admire the scenery from the roadside; they are not allowed inside, as it would disturb the sleep of a guest in the resort.
Perhaps, visiting Ban Rak Thai without "raiding" Lee Wine Ruk Thai Resort would be a huge oversight.
I climbed to the top of the stairs, where there was a Chinese-style viewing pavilion. I leaned back against a wooden pillar and gazed at the vast green tea hills. In the afternoon, the last rays of sunlight shone down on the lake, reflecting a magnificent hue.
Although, just a few hours earlier, I had been driving tirelessly, wondering why I had come all the way to this remote, desolate place to endure such hardship, the gentle breeze rustling through the delicate green tea leaves below made me forget all my fatigue.
The sunset that evening was perfect. I put on some of my favorite Chinese music and gracefully performed a traditional dance I'd learned. Luckily, no one was bothering me at that moment. All the tourists had disappeared.
The scenery at Ban Rak Thai is truly peaceful and perfect for a slow-paced travel experience.
ENJOY TEA WITH SEVEN
At 5:30 PM, after having done all the things I enjoyed, I decided to finish one last thing in Ban Rak Thai: going down for some tea.
Among the countless shops selling local specialties here, with all kinds of tea, sweets, traditional Chinese medicine, and Chinese-style clothing, I chose a tea shop owned by a friend named Bay.
This guy is amazing, he knows five languages and just returned from a 20-day trip to Myanmar. He told me he also just attended the water festival in Chiang Mai and got back last night. It was fun and quite a coincidence, because I did the same thing, only we didn't meet in Chiang Mai, but right at his tea shop.
A tea shop in Ban Rak Thai.
Bay brewed tea while telling stories about his village. He said that most of the tea in Ban Rak Thai is grown by the locals. Ban Rak Thai has four large tea processing factories. The villagers mainly work in agriculture, growing tea and cabbage, and since tourism developed, their lives have become more prosperous.
According to Bay, winter is the most beautiful season in Ban Rak Thai. At this time, the lake water is crystal clear, and the rising mist makes the surface of the lake look like a beautiful painting. After winter passes, spring arrives, and flowers bloom abundantly. The green of the tea plantations is further enhanced by the colors of the wildflowers.
The villagers mainly engage in agriculture, specifically growing tea and cabbage.
I held the cup of tea that Bay had brewed and slowly sipped it. Bay had brewed me a cup of Oolong tea; it had a slightly bitter taste but then a sweet aftertaste. Looking at Bay's tea shelves, there wasn't a single type of tea missing, with prices ranging from 100 Baht to 600 Baht. He also sold teapots and various types of hot and cold water dispensers.
The most fulfilling journey isn't one where you're just talking to yourself. It's the one where you open your heart, sharing the wonderful things in life with the locals. The journey might be difficult and challenging along the way. But the moment you meet a stranger, share a cup of tea with them, and talk about your shared interests—for me, that's a complete journey.
Open your heart and tell the locals about the wonderful things in life.
I left when it was already getting dark. Actually, I had many more questions for Bay, but time was limited and the room I booked was about 7km from Ban Rak Thai. Right now, I'm filled with regret; I wish I hadn't hesitated when booking in Vietnam, choosing between staying in the city center with its high prices or a few kilometers away with much more reasonable prices.
One day, I will definitely return and book a room in this area to fully appreciate the beauty of Ban Rak Thai. To truly experience "going to a place with wind," and enjoy the local specialty teas.
SOME ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
- Vehicle:You can choose to travel from Chiang Mai to Ban Rak Thai by motorbike or van. However, the road is very winding and difficult, so you need to be prepared. For those who get motion sickness, it's recommended to buy medication beforehand because the journey will be quite bumpy. If you choose to travel by motorbike, opt for a manual transmission for more flexibility on this route.
- Homestay:There are also many places to stay within Ban Rak Thai, the most notable being Lee Wine Ruk Thai Resort, but the prices are usually quite expensive. I chose Mong Homestay Resort, 7km away, for my accommodation.
