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Every year on the last Tuesday of January, in the town of Lerwick in the Shetland Islands, Scotland, the Viking bonfire festival, also known as Up Helly Aa, attracts thousands of visitors from all over the world to this northernmost corner of Scotland. This is a ceremony commemorating Scandinavian Viking culture and welcoming the return of the sun after a cold winter.
The Up Helly Aa festival is more than just a sub-Arctic celebration. The islanders hold an annual fire festival to commemorate the Vikings who ruled the land for over a thousand years before it became part of Scotland in 1468. This festival is Shetland's way of connecting with their roots and honoring the symbol of the strength of the ancient Vikings who survived the harsh ocean conditions.
The islanders hold the Up Helly Aa festival annually to commemorate the Vikings who once ruled this land over a thousand years ago.
The fire festival lasts all day, but the evening of Up Helly Aa is always the most captivating part, featuring the torch procession and the burning of the Galley, a traditional Viking dragon boat. Tourists will witness young Vikings, dressed in sheepskin cloaks and carrying axes and shields called Guizers, excitedly gathering in the square to receive the torch. As flares are launched into the sky, the torches are lit, and the fiery parade begins. Visitors will witness a truly impressive spectacle as the flickering torches weave through the streets to the stirring drums and lively music of traditional Up Helly Aa songs.
Leading the parade is the Jarl army, comprising over 1,000 people divided into 46-47 teams. This group pulls behind them a smaller, reconstructed Galley boat, approximately 9 meters long. Standing at the stern of the boat is their leader, known as the Guizer Jarl. A Guizer Jarl must be over 16 years old, have participated in Up Helly Aa for at least 5 years, and meet all the criteria to be elected as their leader.
The festival lasts all day, but the evening of Up Helly Aa is always the most captivating part, featuring the torch procession and the burning of the Galley, a traditional Viking dragon boat.
The procession will pull the Galley boat to the burning riverbank. The boat will be placed in the center, and the torchbearers will form a circle around it, singing "Up Helly Aa." When the flares are fired again, the Guizer Jarl will disembark from the boat. A funeral trumpet will sound, and all the torches will be thrown into the Galley boat. In ancient Viking custom, the bravest Viking warriors would be sent to the afterlife on the burning Galley boat, with the hope that the souls of the deceased would reach Valhalla, known as the palace of the dead in Old Norse.
To make the boat burning ceremony even more spectacular, the city's streetlights were turned off very early. Each time the ceremony began, the entire city seemed to glow with fire. When the fire died down, the guizers' lavish nighttime party started. They paraded back to local taverns carrying torches, dancing and singing until sunrise.
Whenever the ceremony is performed, the entire city seems to burst into flames.
Up Helly Aa's heart
The Shetland Islands are located northeast of Scotland and are part of the United Kingdom. These remote islands were once part of Norway until ownership was transferred to Scotland in the 15th century. The area is steeped in Nordic heritage, most notably in the town of Lerwick, where streets are named after Viking kings like Harald and Haakon, and the local dialects are predominantly Scandinavian.
The people of Shetland protect their Nordic heritage and immerse themselves in its culture. Each year, Viking Galley boats and over 1,000 torches are prepared by the locals. Throughout the winter, the Shetland Islands eagerly prepare for this important festival. Cultural preservation is also instilled in schools, where children learn about their roots, explore the festival, and even make their own helmets and shields.
The awareness of preserving culture is also instilled in schools; children learn about their roots, explore festivals, and make their own helmets, armor, and shields.
Although Up Helly Aa has a majestic and wild atmosphere, the spirit of the festival is focused on community bonding. Throughout the fire festival, visitors can fully experience the joy and excitement of the entire town of Lerwick as they join the parade of Jarl troops. A troop of over 1,000 people will visit local schools, hospitals, and healthcare facilities to bring the festival to those who cannot participate in person.
Gender equality has been established.
Despite its long-standing tradition, Up Helly Aa remained exclusively for men until 2022, a controversial custom. After much discussion and negotiation, in June 2022, the festival committee decided to consider the majority public opinion regarding the inclusion of women in Up Helly Aa in 2023. These women would form a team, join the parade, participate in the torch procession, burn the Galley, and could even run to become a Guizer Jarl leading the parade. For a festival traditionally for teenagers, this means that girls can now participate just like boys.
After a long period of consultation and negotiation, in June 2022, the Up Helly Aa committee decided to listen to the majority of the public regarding whether women would be allowed to participate in Up Helly Aa in 2023.
This is considered a historic milestone for Up Helly Aa in particular and the Shetland Islands in general. In addition to the community benefiting from increased inclusion and diversity as women participate in cultural and social events, this decision will also help female visitors to Shetland feel safe and welcome in Up Helly Aa.
