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Located on Chau Long Street (Ba Dinh District), Tra Nha Co is like a film reel rewinding to the past, where people can live slowly, sit by a warm pot of tea, and enjoy glasses of beer while lost in nostalgia.
The house, abandoned since the 1990s, carried a thick layer of dust from time and memories. In 2022, Thang, the owner – a young man who loves traditional culture – along with a research group from UNESCO YCC, decided to revive it. Not by demolishing and rebuilding, but by preserving and respecting every old trace, allowing the house to live on, but in a new form: a tea house imbued with Vietnamese spirit.
"Bringing the Forest to the City"
A space that evokes the atmosphere of a traditional Vietnamese village.
Stepping through the wooden door reveals a completely different world. The Old House Tea House opens up to a tranquil space, steeped in the rustic charm of the Northern Vietnamese countryside. The rustic red brick walls, the wood-burning stove nestled in a corner, the bamboo water ladle neatly hung on the wall, alongside earthenware jars, ceramic pots, and a chipped rice container – all recreate a typical kitchen from the old countryside.
The light in the cafe doesn't come from ceiling lights or dazzling electric lamps, but from natural light filtering through the gaps in the wood, reflecting off the rustic brick floor. The ceiling has been removed, creating an open space that makes the house feel more airy, yet still retains its inherent tranquility. Alternating streaks of light and shadow on the brick walls create a vibrant picture, both ancient and poetic.
The space at Tra Nha Co (Ancient House Tea House)
In another corner, an old wooden cabinet stands silently, a witness to time. Its scratches and peeling paint are not concealed; rather, these imperfections are the beauty of its authenticity. On it, earthenware teapots, small blue-glazed cups, and a vase of dried chrysanthemums are arranged in a balanced way, warming the space without overwhelming it.
What makes Tra Nha Co special isn't just its furnishings or architecture, but the very "homely" feeling it evokes. Every object here seems to have its own story: the bamboo bench where grandparents used to sit and fan themselves, the bamboo water ladle a familiar sight by the village well, and the rice jar – a simple item but closely associated with the warmth and prosperity of every Vietnamese family.
"Coming here felt like returning to my grandparents' hometown. My grandparents' house was just like this, simple yet very cozy. This will probably be the place I'll stop by whenever I'm overwhelmed by work, to sip tea and relax," shared Mr. Bach, a visitor.
The simple and rustic features here
That space suddenly brings back memories of childhood, when the whole family gathered around the dinner table, when the fire flickered in the wood-burning stove, and the sound of the rice pot bubbling like a warm winter melody. At Tra Nha Co, those memories are not only evoked, but seem to come alive again – alive in every detail, in the unhurried service, in the quiet solitude, and even in the subtle aroma of dried tea leaves.
In the building opposite the Old Tea House is the place to order drinks, work, and enjoy tea. People can comfortably choose between two different spaces to immerse themselves in a "forest" within a "street".
The space opposite the Old Tea House
"Beer" tea - an interesting innovation from tradition.
Tea is the soul of the cafe, and here, each type of tea has its own unique flavor and story. But the most outstanding, and perhaps the most intriguing, is the "beer tea," a drink with a name that is quite the opposite of the nostalgic atmosphere of this place.
Despite its name, "beer tea" contains no alcohol and is a unique blend of green tea, salted plums, and a touch of creativity from the tea maker. The refreshing taste of the tea, the subtle saltiness of the salted plums, and the clean, lingering astringency create a sensation that is both novel and familiar. With each sip, one feels the taste of a summer in the Northern Delta, where ripe, golden plums are preserved in earthenware jars by grandmothers, perfect for the sweltering days.
Objects that evoke nostalgia
What makes Tra Nha Co special isn't its extravagance or modernity, but rather the meticulous attention to detail and the heartfelt sentiment embedded in every corner. Each guest is welcomed like a returning friend, not with loud fuss, but with sincerity and warmth.
The cafe isn't spacious, but it's enough for everyone to find a quiet spot. Some read by the window, others chat softly in the corner by the brick wall, and some gaze alone at the rising tea steam, like streams of memories. At Tra Nha Co, there's no need to rush or take photos to mark the occasion, because the moments here are beautiful enough to leave a lasting impression.
Amidst the relentless flow of technology and modernization, the existence of a space like Tra Nha Co (Ancient Tea House) is not only rare but also a commendable effort. It's not just the story of a tea house, but a journey of preserving memories, recreating culture, evoking emotions, and connecting with our roots.
Light filtered through the roof.
Mr. Thang and the UNESCO YCC research team not only renovated an abandoned house, but also breathed new life into it – the soul of the old, of tranquility, of a quiet yet profound love for the homeland. In every brick, every object, every cup of tea is a journey of revival of Vietnamese culture – something that is gradually fading away amidst the hustle and bustle of the city.
The Old House Tea House isn't for those seeking modern conveniences or glamorous spaces. It's for those who appreciate the beauty of the old, who love stories from the past, and who are willing to sit down, sip a cup of tea, and find peace amidst the hustle and bustle of the city.
In the suffocating atmosphere of Hanoi, Tra Nha Co (Ancient House Tea) is like a cool, refreshing breeze—unpretentious, quiet, gently passing through people's hearts, leaving a tender aftertaste like the tea, like memories, like a bygone afternoon that hasn't yet faded.
