Bringing the forest to the city right in Ba Dinh

01/05/2025

Tra Nha Co makes an impression at first sight. Not ostentatious with a large sign or modern design, the shop looks like an ancient house. The moss-covered tiled roof, the time-dark wooden doors, and the mottled plaster walls all whisper to passersby about a distant, rustic and intimate time.

Located on Chau Long Street (Ba Dinh District), Tra Nha Co is like a film rewinding to the past, where people can live slowly, sit with a pot of hot tea, and glasses of beer, lost in nostalgia.

The house was abandoned since the 1990s, carrying with it a thick layer of dust from time and memories. In 2022, Mr. Thang, the owner - a young man who loves traditional culture, and the research team from UNESCO YCC decided to revive this place. Not by demolishing and rebuilding, but by preserving and respecting every old trace, so that the house can continue to live, but in a new form of a tea shop with a Vietnamese soul.

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"Bringing the Forest to the City"

Space imbued with the essence of ancient Vietnamese countryside

Stepping through the wooden door is a completely different world. Tra Nha Co opens up a quiet space, full of the Northern countryside. The red brick wall, the wood stove in a corner, the bamboo water ladle neatly hung on the wall, next to it are water jars, earthenware jars and a chipped rice jar, all seem to recreate a typical kitchen of an old village.

The light in the shop does not come from ceiling lights or bright electric lights, but from natural light that seeps through the gaps in the wood, reflecting on the rough brick floor. The ceiling is broken open, leaving an open space, making the house seem more airy, but still maintaining its inherent silence. The alternating light and dark bands on the brick wall create a vivid picture, both ancient and poetic.

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Không gian tại Trà Nhà Cổ

Space at Tra Nha Co

In another corner, the old wooden cabinet stood silently as a witness to time. The scratches and peeling paint were not hidden by the very defects that were the beauty of authenticity. On it, the earthenware teapots, small blue-glazed cups, and vases of dried chrysanthemums were arranged in a suitable way, enough to warm the space without overwhelming it.

The special thing about Tra Nha Co is not only the furniture or architecture, but this place brings a very "home" feeling. Every object here seems to have its own story, the bamboo bed used to be where grandparents sat to fan themselves, the bamboo water ladle is a familiar image next to the village well, or the rice jar - a simple item but closely associated with the warmth and prosperity of every Vietnamese family.

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"When I come here, I feel like I'm back in my paternal hometown. My grandparents' house is like this, it feels simple but very cozy. This will probably be the place where I will stop every time I go through the hustle and bustle of work to sip some tea and relax" - Mr. Bach, a tourist here shared.

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Những nét đơn sơ mộc mạc tại đây

The simple rustic features here

That space suddenly reminds us of our childhood days, when the whole family gathered around the dinner table, when the fire flickered in the wood stove, when the sound of the rice pot boiling was like a warm winter song. At Tra Nha Co, those memories are not only recalled, but also seem to be relived - lived in every detail, in the slow service, in the quiet without noise and even in the faint aroma of dry tea leaves.

In the building opposite Tra Nha Co is the place to order drinks, work space and enjoy tea. People coming here can freely choose 2 different spaces to blend into the "forest" in the "city".

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Không gian đối diện Trà Nhà Cổ

Space opposite Tra Nha Co

“Beer” Tea - an interesting creation from tradition

Tea is the soul of the shop, and here, each type of tea has its own flavor, its own story. But the most prominent and perhaps the most curious is the "beer" tea, a drink with a name that is very opposite to the nostalgic atmosphere of this place.

Alcohol-free as its name suggests, “beer” tea is a unique combination of green tea, salted apricots and a little creativity from the tea maker. The cool taste of tea, the slight saltiness of salted apricots and the pure astringency create a feeling that is both strange and familiar. Taking a sip, we can feel the taste of the summer in the Northern Delta where the ripe apricots are soaked in earthenware jars by our grandmother, to save for hot days.

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Những đồ vật mang tên hoài niệm

Objects named nostalgia

What makes Tra Nha Co special is not the luxury or modernity, but the meticulousness and affection that is put into every little corner. Each guest is welcomed like a returning friend, not with a lot of fuss but with sincerity and warmth.

The space of the shop is not large, but enough for everyone to find a quiet place to sit. Some people read books by the window, some chat softly in the corner of the brick wall, some people watch the tea smoke rising like streams of memories. At Tra Nha Co, people do not need to rush, nor do they need to “check-in” to record because the moment here is beautiful enough to be imprinted in the heart.

Amidst the constant flow of technology and modernization, the existence of a space like Tra Nha Co is not only rare, but also a worthy effort. It is not just a story about a tea shop, but a journey to preserve memories, recreate culture, evoke emotions and connect with the roots.

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Ánh sáng len lỏi xuyên qua mái nhà

Light filters through the roof

Mr. Thang and the UNESCO YCC research team have not only renovated an abandoned house, but also breathed into it a new soul - the soul of the old, of the sediment, of the silent but profound love for the homeland. In each brick, each item, each cup of tea is a journey of reviving Vietnamese culture - something that is gradually fading away in the hustle and bustle of the city.

Tra Nha Co is not for those who seek modern conveniences or flashy spaces. This place is for those who love the beauty of the old, love old stories, and are willing to sit down, sip a cup of tea, to feel their hearts calm down in the midst of the hustle and bustle of the city.

In the middle of stuffy Hanoi, Tra Nha Co is like a cool breeze, not ostentatious, not noisy, just gently passing through people's hearts, leaving a gentle aftertaste like the taste of tea, like memories, like an afternoon of the old season that has not yet ended.

Article and photos: Hoang Anh
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