Istanbul - The city on seven hills

Read Part 2:Cappadocia - A land of myths

Text: Le Minh Phuong, Nguyen Thao. Photos: Le The Thang, Tran Duy Nam, and various other sources.

In mid-September, Istanbul bathed in warm sunshine, with an incredibly high and blue sky. The city, with its sloping streets, cathedral domes, modern apartment buildings interspersed with ancient neighborhoods blending various architectural styles, gradually emerged around every bend. Istanbul is built on seven hills, so it's fascinating to see the city from different angles as the bus ascends and descends the steep roads.

Although Ankara is the capital, Istanbul is considered the heart of Türkiye for tourists.

Legendary Bophorus

Departing from Ho Chi Minh City, after a 15-hour flight, I was surprised to find myself still full of energy. Perhaps the reasonable flight time, combined with a little raki (Turkish vodka) at the excellent dinner provided by Turkey's national airline, helped me get a good night's sleep. So, as soon as I checked into my hotel and dropped off my luggage, I wanted to leave and head out into the streets to immerse myself in legendary Istanbul.

It would be a great pity for anyone who comes here and misses the opportunity to cruise along the Bosphorus Strait. The road leading to the Golden Horn harbor is beautiful, although sometimes congested. On one side of the road is the azure, breezy bay, where at sunset families often stroll with their children along the grassy areas and coastal parks. I saw many people fishing and a father swimming with his two sons, their small dog joining in the fun on the shore by barking loudly. Opposite the sea is an ancient city wall that stretches along the entire road. Occasionally, a café is nestled at the foot of the wall. The city, with its unique architecture – a blend of Asian and European lines and colors, perfectly harmonized by time – is clustered on the hills behind the wall. Above all are the towering stone columns of the mosques.

For just over 25 lira, you can enjoy a two-hour scenic cruise along the Bosphorus Strait. From there, you'll easily see Istanbul straddling two continents, Asia and Europe, separated by the Bosphorus Strait and connected by three bridges and ferries. It only takes a few minutes to cross the bridges and set foot on both continents.

The Golden Horn area is arguably Istanbul's most bustling and glamorous district, a prime example of cultural fusion. Due to its unique geographical location, the Golden Horn is a vital international commercial port and the only sea route connecting the Black Sea and the Mediterranean. I boarded the boat at 6 pm and departed from the Galata pier. The sun was fading, the wind was strong, and I was shivering from the cold wearing only a shirt. Luckily, the boat crew brought me a warm cup of apple tea. I felt as if I had never tasted a tea with such a captivating sweetness and aroma before.

It's hard to describe the feeling of cruising on the Bosphorus at sunset; the scenery is like something out of a romantic Hollywood travelogue. The boat glides swiftly across the azure sea. The sun begins to set, casting its last glorious rays upon the magnificent and ancient mansions and castles along the bay. Seagulls circle around the Europan Fortress, their shrill cries and hurried wings seeming to cling to the crimson sun sinking over the sea. At the end of the cruise, I had dinner at Sur Balik, a restaurant on a hillside. The restaurant's terrace with its panoramic view of the Bosphorus Bay is truly worth the money spent on a reservation and the experience. If you're looking for a more affordable place to eat, you can visit the food court at the foot of the Galata Bridge. This is also a popular spot for tourists and the best place to take selfies with the sunset over the Golden Horn harbor as a backdrop.

"You can't leave until you've arrived."

Istanbul has had many different names and holds many special titles, such as: the largest metropolitan area in Europe (over 5,000 km²), the most populous city in the world (14 million inhabitants), and a transcontinental city. Attracted by its architectural, artistic, religious, and cultural landmarks, Istanbul is fascinating to me in every corner. It's difficult to count the number of temples in Istanbul, and it's hard to distinguish them, as each one is a magnificent structure with its dome-shaped roof and proud, towering columns. Just strolling through a few streets, I've seen countless architectural works bearing the imprint of different periods and cultures. It's no surprise to learn that Istanbul is an ancient city over 2,000 years old and was once the capital of four empires: Roman, Byzantine, Latin, and Ottoman.

Looking at a tourist map, Istanbul's most magnificent architectural heritage is largely concentrated in the peninsula's headland, where one side borders the Golden Horn harbor, and the other side faces the Bosphorus Strait where it meets the Sea of ​​Marmara. I spent an entire day visiting the places that the Istanbul tourist map noted as "must-see locations."

Starting from the Hippodrome, built by the Roman emperor Septimius Severus in 203 AD with a capacity of 40,000 people, today only a few relics remain on the square, such as the Egyptian obelisk (Obélisque Égyotien) made from a single block of stone and the Serpentine bronze column (Colonne Serpentine). From here, it only takes a few minutes' walk to visit two famous temples, magnificent religious architectural masterpieces of humanity.

Blue Mosque

Built between 1609 and 1616 during the reign of Sultan Ahmed I of the Ottoman Empire, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque is often known as the Blue Mosque due to its interior's vibrant blue mosaic and stonework. The mosque is still in operation and allows visitors to enter through a separate entrance if they are dressed modestly and respectfully. Women are required to cover their hair and are provided with headscarves at the security checkpoint. Visitors can take photos both inside and outside the mosque. However, taking photos is somewhat inconvenient as shoes must be removed and carried throughout the visit. Inside, the vast space resembles a plaza, echoing with the murmurs of admiration from thousands of visitors. Most impressive is the system of enormous, interconnected domes, and the intricate patterns on the ceilings and columns, all illuminated by natural light from hundreds of skylights. Although I'm not a believer, when I gazed at the brilliant light reflecting through the stained glass windows of the temple, I truly felt the sacred presence of God.

Photo: Eddie Crutchley

Opposite the Blue Mosque lies the Hagia Sophia, a cathedral with a thousand-year history and shrouded in mystical legends. In her literary work, "The Historian," which has sold 28 million copies, author Elizabeth Kostova vividly and mythically portrays Istanbul, and especially the Hagia Sophia. Historically, Christianity and Islam have had a special connection here. You might be surprised to learn that before becoming a mosque in 1453, Hagia Sophia was a sacred Christian site for a thousand years.

For a long time, the Hagia Sophia has been on my list of dream destinations, and I've always dreamed of one day stepping foot inside. And today, this sacred temple appeared before me, with its warm, pinkish-orange stained stone walls and enormous central dome. Outside the cathedral is a spacious square with a beautiful fountain and many benches for pedestrians to rest. The cool inner courtyard is lined with ancient trees, and the lawns display ancient sculptures unearthed during excavations.

It's difficult to describe the overwhelming feeling upon stepping inside the vast cathedral. The architecture and decorative art of the church exude grandeur and magnificence. All the columns, walls, and floors are crafted from natural stone blocks with rich colors and patterns. The arrangement and joining of the stone slabs to coordinate patterns and colors also demonstrate refined aesthetics.

You have to go up to the second floor to get a panoramic view of the main sanctuary because the space is so vast. From this vantage point, you can also clearly see the two rows of magnificent columns, the enormous central dome with its intricate carvings, and the frescoes on the ceiling depicting religious stories. These paintings and other representations of the Christian spirit were destroyed and covered up when the church was converted into a mosque. They only reappeared in 1931, when the Republic of Turkey renovated and transformed the church into a museum. Hagia Sophia still houses and displays many valuable works of art.

It is truly moving to stand beneath the marble columns and reflect on the existence of empires, battles, conflicts, the comings and goings, the victors and the vanquished…

The past does not sleep… Its whisper can be heard as the wind blows in from the bay, past ancient mansions, squares, domes, and the silent stone walls of temples.

Kebab, coffee, shopping, and strolling around.

Istanbul has hundreds of other intricate and fascinating things that I yearn to experience. There's too little time for me to wander the streets, stroll down the gently sloping alleys, admire the old buildings, guess at their style, or Google it to find out what style they were built in. When my feet get tired, I'll stop at a pretty café, under the shade of a tree by the roadside or at the end of an alley. Many young people are chatting happily there, and the ice cream and pastries are fantastic. Or I'll step into a shop, browse, and add a few unique items to my collection from my travels. There are countless items that attract tourists, but I often splurge on antique postcards, old stamps, and reproductions of paintings depicting Istanbul's past.

You might be wondering, "Nothing disappointed me in Istanbul?" Well, there was kebab, Turkey's famous grilled meat dish. I often spent a long time standing in front of kebab shops trying to decide what to eat, because a traditional shop would have at least a few dozen different types of kebab. And when I finally picked one up, I'd ask myself: "Oh, why didn't I try that other one?"

Travellive advises:

Vehicle:

- TURKISH AIRLINES – Türkiye's national airline offers daily flights departing at 8 PM from Ho Chi Minh City to Istanbul, with a layover in Bangkok, arriving at Istanbul airport at 6 AM the following day.

- On June 27th, Turkish Airlines officially launched direct flights from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi to Istanbul.

+ Hanoi – Istanbul: 2 flights/week on Mondays and Wednesdays, departing at 4:50 PM and arriving at 5:20 AM the following day.

+ Ho Chi Minh City: 1 trip/day, departing at 8:25 PM and arriving at 5:20 AM the next day.

- Book your tickets online via the website: www.turkishairlines.com or purchase directly at Turkish Airlines ticket offices.

Visa:

- Türkiye issues online visas (eVisa) for passports with valid visas from OECD countries. The fee is 50 USD.

- Regular visa fee is $60 USD. Applications must be submitted one month in advance and via the website www.evisa.gov.tr

Currency: Lira

1 Lira = 0.35 USD = 8,000 Vietnamese Dong

ButTransportation options in Istanbul:Trams and trains are the most popular and convenient modes of transportation. However, trains can get quite crowded during peak hours and rush hour. You can also get around the city center by taxi.

ButHotel:

Levni Boutique Hotel (Ankara Caddesi No: 12 Sirkeci – İstanbul, +90 212 519 10 19)

Ottoman İmperial Boutique Hotel (Caferiye Sokak No 6/1 34122 Sultanahmet Istanbul, +90 212 513 61 50)

Sura Hagia Sophia Boutique Hotel (Divanyolu Cad. Alemdar Mah. Ticarethane Sk. No:10 34122 Istanbul, +90 212 522 7400)

Wyndham Istanbul Old City 5 star (Balabanaga Mahallesi, Fethibe, 34134 Laleli-Fatih, Istanbul, 34134 , +90 21 25149000)

- Restaurant:

Surplus Restaurant (Fatih, Ragıp Gümüşpala Caddesi, 54, Istanbul, Turkey 34200), Matbah Restorant (Caferiye Sokak No 6/1 34122 Sultanahmet, İstanbul, Türkiye), Deraliye Restaurant (Adress: Divanyolu Cad, Alemdar Mah, Ticarethane Sk, No:10 Sultanahmet / Istanbul), and Sur Arnavutköy (Bebek Arnavutköy Cad. No: 52 Bebek / İstanbul)

- Tour

Dorak Tour Turkey offers an 8-day, 7-night tour for travelers from Vietnam. You will be picked up in Istanbul and visit famous landmarks such as the Hagia Sofia Mosque and Topkapi Palace before exploring other cities including Canakkale, Kusadasi, Pamukkale, Konya, Cappadocia, and Ankara.

Shopping in Istanbul

Istanbul is located on the Silk Road, so trade has historically developed into an art form. Merchants in Türkiye, and Istanbul in particular, are mostly men and very professional. After a few pleasantries, they usually offer tea to customers; they rarely mention prices immediately, but instead introduce the quality of their goods.

If you lack self-control, you might end up spending all your money at the first store.

The Grand Bazaar – in Turkish, the oldest and largest market in the world – boasts over 4,000 stalls, attracting 250,000 to 400,000 visitors and shoppers daily. It has 21 entrances leading to 60 streets. The Grand Bazaar is a giant labyrinth with an irresistible allure for shoppers, especially those who love collecting decorative items and handicrafts. The market sells everything from the most common to the rarest, from spices, dried fruits, candies, decorative tiles, belly dance costumes to handcrafted carpets and exquisite jewelry. Every item is colorful and appealing, and the vendors are friendly and professional. You'll only wish you had unlimited time and money, and hope you don't get lost at the end of your shopping trip.

Taksim Fashion Avenue

Unlike the Grand Bazaar, Taksim Square is a boulevard primarily lined with fashion and accessory shops. In the evenings and on weekends, this wide boulevard is always bustling with shoppers and shoppers. All the world's famous fashion brands are present here, alongside high-end and luxury brands, as well as many good quality and affordable Turkish clothing items. It's also the busiest shopping area for Turkish people on holidays and special occasions.

Shopping destinations in Istanbul:

Besides the Grand Bazaar and Taksim Square, visitors should also visit the Spice Bazaar, also known as the Egyptian Market.

What to buy in Istanbul:

- Souvenirs, traditional handicrafts, spices, dried fruits, and especially pottery, carpets, woolen coats, and leather jackets.

- Turkish Delight refers to traditional Turkish sweets and candies that are often purchased as gifts.

Shopping tips:

- Don't rush to haggle when shopping; carefully check the quality and compare prices. When deciding to buy, start by offering 30% less than the seller's asking price.

- Buy carpets and pottery: Turkish carpets and pottery are world-renowned handicrafts known for their quality and intricate, sophisticated patterns. These two items are widely sold in Istanbul and other tourist cities. However, prices can vary greatly from shop to shop depending on three factors: material, size, craftsmanship, and production time, and finally, your bargaining skills.

A handcrafted silk rug can take up to a year's work from two women. High-quality rugs cost from a few hundred dollars to tens of thousands of dollars, including a warranty and shipping fees. Pottery has similar pricing and sales methods.

The Thanh