Istanbul - City on 7 Hills

Read more Part 2:Cappadocia - Land of Mythology

Text: Le Minh Phuong, Nguyen Thao. Photos: Le The Thang, Tran Duy Nam, and many other sources.

On a mid-September day, Istanbul was bathed in warm sunshine, the sky high and incredibly blue. The city with its steep slopes, domes, modern apartments mixed with old quarters with a mix of architectural styles… appeared around every turn. Istanbul was built on seven hills, so it was interesting to see the city from different angles as the bus went up and down the steep streets.

Although Ankara is the capital, for tourists Istanbul is the heart of Türkiye.

The legendary Bophorus

Departing from Ho Chi Minh City, after 15 hours of flight, I was surprised to find myself still full of energy. Perhaps the reasonable flight time plus a little raki (Turkish vodka) in the wonderful dinner of Turkish national airline helped me have a good sleep. So, right after checking in and dropping off my luggage, I wanted to leave the hotel and rush out to the street to immerse myself in the legendary Istanbul.

It would be a pity for anyone who has come here to miss the opportunity to cruise on the Bosphorus Strait by yacht. The road leading to the Golden Horn port is beautiful, although sometimes there are traffic jams. On one side of the road is a blue, windy bay, in the evening families often take their children to walk along the lawns and coastal parks. I saw many people fishing and a father swimming in the sea with two boys, a small dog standing on the shore joining in their fun by barking loudly. On the opposite side of the sea is an ancient wall that runs along the entire road. Occasionally a cafe appears nestled at the foot of the wall. The city, houses with unique architecture - lines and colors blending Asia and Europe, time has made them perfectly harmonious - grow close together on the hills behind the wall. Above all are the towering stone pillars of the mosques.

It costs more than 25 lira to take a 2-hour cruise along the Bosphorus Bay. Here, you will easily see Istanbul lying between two continents, Asia and Europe, separated by the Bosphorus Bay and connected by 3 bridges and ferries. It only takes a few minutes across the bridge to set foot on both continents.

The Golden Horn port area can be said to be the most bustling and luxurious area of ​​Istanbul, and is also a place where cultural exchange clearly manifests. Due to its unique geographical location, the Golden Horn port is an important international trade port and the only sea route connecting the Black Sea and the Mediterranean. I boarded the boat at 6 pm and started to leave the port from Galata Pier. The sun was weak, the wind was blowing strongly, and I was shivering with only a shirt on. Fortunately, the boatman brought a cup of hot apple tea. I thought I had never tasted any tea with such a sweet taste and seductive aroma before.

It is difficult to describe the feeling of cruising on the Bosphorus at dusk, the scenery appears like in a romantic Hollywood travelogue. The boat glides quickly on the blue sea. The sun begins to set, throwing the last glorious beam of light on the majestic and ancient mansions and castles on the shore of the bay. Seagulls fly in flocks around the Europion fortress, their shrill cries and hurried wings seeming to try to hold on to the red sun that is slowly sinking into the sea. At the end of the excursion, I had dinner at Sur Balik, a restaurant on the hillside. The restaurant's sky terrace with a panoramic view of the Bosphorus is really worth the money you spend on a reservation and experience. If you want to find a place to have dinner at a more affordable price, you can go to the food court at the foot of the Galata Bridge. This is also a familiar address for tourists and the best place to take a selfie with the background of the sunset over the Golden Horn port.

“Can't leave until you arrive”

Istanbul has had many different names and has been given many special titles to describe it, such as: the largest urban area in Europe (over 5,000 km2), the most populous city in the world (14 million people) or the intercontinental city. Attracted by architectural works of art, religion and culture, Istanbul is fascinating to me in every corner. It is difficult to count the number of temples in Istanbul and it is also difficult to distinguish them because each temple is a beautiful structure with a system of bowl-shaped roofs and proud rows of columns. Just walking through a few streets, I have seen countless architectural works bearing the mark of different periods and cultures. It will not be surprising to know that Istanbul is an ancient city of more than 2,000 years and was the capital of four empires: Roman, Byzantine, Latin and Ottoman.

Looking at the tourist map, Istanbul's most splendid architectural heritage is mostly concentrated at the tip of the peninsula, where on one side it meets the Golden Horn port, on the other side the Bosphorus area meets the Sea of ​​Marmara. I spent a whole day visiting the places that the Istanbul tourist map notes as "cannot leave without visiting".

Starting from the Hippodrome Racecourse, built by the Roman emperor Septime Sévèse in 203 with a capacity of 40,000 people. Today, only a few relics remain on the square, such as the Egyptian obelisk (Obélisque Égyotien) made from a single block of stone and the Serpentine bronze pillar. From here, it only takes a few minutes to walk to visit two famous temples, which are the most beautiful religious architectural works of mankind.

Blue Mosque

Built between 1609 and 1616 under the reign of Sultan Ahmed I of the Ottoman Empire, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque is commonly known as the Blue Mosque because of its interior decorated with brilliant blue mosaics and tiles. The mosque is still in operation and allows visitors to enter through a separate entrance if they wear modest, polite clothing. Women are required to cover their hair and are provided with headscarves in the control area. Visitors can take photos both outside and inside the mosque. However, taking photos is a bit inconvenient because shoes and sandals are required to be removed and must be carried during the entire visit. Inside the large square-like space of the mosque, the murmurs of admiration from thousands of visitors resound. The most impressive is the system of giant domes that are connected and intertwined, the delicate patterns on the ceiling and columns are completely illuminated by natural light from hundreds of skylights. Even though I am not a believer, when I looked at the brilliant light reflected through the stained glass windows of the temple, I truly felt the divine presence of God.

Photo: Eddie Crutchley

Opposite the Blue Mosque is the Hagia Sophia, a thousand-year-old mosque surrounded by mysterious legends. In her 28 million-copy book, The Historian, Elizabeth Kostova describes Istanbul and especially the Hagia Sophia as a vivid and mythical place. Historically, Christianity and Islam have had a special relationship. You will be surprised to know that before becoming a mosque in 1453, the Hagia Sophia was a sacred place for Christianity for a thousand years.

For a long time, I have always thought of stepping into the Hagia Sophia. And today, the sacred temple appeared before my eyes with its warm pink-orange stained stone walls and giant central dome. Outside the mosque is a large square with a beautiful fountain, many benches for pedestrians to rest. The cool courtyard with rows of large trees, grassy garden displaying ancient sculptures found during excavations.

It is difficult to describe the overwhelming feeling when stepping inside the large cathedral. The architecture and decorative arts of the church exude grandeur and magnificence. All the columns, walls, and floors are crafted from natural stone blocks with rich colors and patterns. The arrangement and joining of the paving stones to coordinate the patterns and colors also shows exquisite aesthetics.

You have to go up to the second floor to look down to be able to cover the main hall because the space is so large. Also from this position, you will see more clearly the two rows of magnificent columns, the giant central dome with elaborate mosaic motifs or the ceiling frescoes depicting holy relics. These paintings and what represents the Christian spirit were destroyed and covered when the church was turned into a mosque. They only reappeared in 1931, when the Republic of Turkey renovated and converted the temple into a museum. Hagia Sophia still preserves and displays many precious works of art.

It is so touching to stand under the marble columns and recall the existence of empires, conflicts, struggles, comings and goings, winners and losers...

The past does not sleep… Its whisper can be heard when the wind blows in from the bay through the ancient mansions, the squares, the domes and the silent stone walls of the temples.

Kebab, coffee, shopping and walking

There are hundreds of other interesting and detailed things in Istanbul that I long to experience. There is too little time for me to wander around the streets, strolling in the gently sloping alleys, looking at the old mansions, guessing, or go on Google to find out what style they were built in. When my feet get tired, I will stop at a beautiful cafe, under the shade of a tree on the side of the road or at the end of the alley. There are many young people chatting happily here and the ice cream or cakes are so wonderful. Or I will step into a shop, look around and add a few unique items to the collection that I have accumulated from my travels. There are countless attractive items for tourists here but I often spend recklessly on antique postcards, old stamps, and copied paintings - depicting the landscape of Istanbul in the past.

You might be wondering, isn’t there anything that disappoints me in Istanbul? Yes, it is the kebab, the famous Turkish grilled meat. I often spend time standing in front of the kebab shop when I have to decide what to eat, because in a traditional shop, there are at least a few dozen different types of kebab. And when I hold the chosen dish in my hand, I think to myself: Oh, why don’t I try that one?

Travellive advises:

Vehicle:

- TURKISH AIRLINES – Turkey's national airline offers daily flights departing at 8:00 p.m. from Ho Chi Minh City to Istanbul, transiting in Bangkok, arriving at Istanbul airport at 6:00 a.m. the next day.

- On June 27, Turkish Airlines officially opened direct flights from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi to Istanbul.

+ Hanoi – Istanbul 2 flights/week on Monday, Wednesday, departing at 4:50 pm, arriving at 5:20 am the next day

+ Ho Chi Minh City 1 trip/day, departing at 8:25 pm, arriving at 5:20 am the next day

- Book tickets online via website: www.turkishairlines.com or book directly at Turkish Airlines ticket office

Visa:

- Türkiye issues online visas (eVisas) for passports with valid visas from OECD countries. Fee 50 USD

- Regular visa fee is 60 USD, send application 1 month in advance and send registration via website www.evisa.gov.tr

Currency: Lira

01 Lira = 0.35USD = 8,000 Vietnamese Dong

-Transportation in Istanbul:Trams and trains are the most popular and convenient means of transport. However, they can get quite crowded during rush hours. You can also travel within the city centre by taxi.

-Hotel:

Levni Boutique Hotel (Ankara Caddesi No: 12 Sirkeci – İstanbul, +90 212 519 10 19)

Ottoman İmperial Boutique Hotel (Caferiye Sokak No 6/1 34122 Sultanahmet Istanbul, +90 212 513 61 50)

Sura Hagia Sophia Boutique Hotel (Divanyolu Cad. Alemdar Mah. Ticarethane Sk. No:10 34122 Istanbul, +90 212 522 7400)

Wyndham Istanbul Old City 5 star (Balabanaga Mahallesi, Fethibe, 34134 Laleli-Fatih, Istanbul, 34134 , +90 21 25149000)

- Restaurant:

Surplus Restaurant (Fatih, Ragıp Gümüşpala Caddesi, 54, Istanbul, Turkey 34200), Matbah Restorant (Caferiye Sokak No 6/1 34122 Sultanahmet, İstanbul, Türkiye), Deraliye Restaurant (Adress: Divanyolu Cad, Alemdar Mah, Ticarethane Sk, No:10 Sultanahmet / Istanbul), and Sur Arnavutköy (Bebek Arnavutköy Cad. No: 52 Bebek / İstanbul)

- Tour

Dorak Tour Turkey offers 8 days 7 nights tour for tourists from Vietnam. You will be picked up in Istanbul, visit famous landmarks such as Hagia Sofia, Topkapi Palace before exploring other cities including Canakkale, Kusadasi, Pamukkale, Konya, Cappadocia and Ankara.

Shopping in Istanbul

Istanbul is a point on the Silk Road, so trade has developed into an art since ancient times. The sellers in Türkiye in general and Istanbul in particular are all men and very professional. After a few social conversations, the sellers often invite customers to have tea, they rarely talk about prices but will first introduce the quality of the goods.

If you are not brave enough, you may spend all your money at the first store.

Grand Bazaar – in Turkish, is the oldest and largest market in the world, with more than 4,000 stalls, attracting 250,000 - 400,000 visitors and shoppers every day. The market has 21 gates leading to 60 streets. Grand Bazaar is a giant maze that has a tremendous attraction for shopping enthusiasts. Especially those who love and collect decorative items and handicrafts. The market sells all kinds of goods from "gold and silver" to rare items, from spices, dried fruits, candies, decorative tiles, belly dancing costumes to handmade carpets, sophisticated jewelry... Every item is colorful and attractive, every seller is friendly and professional. You just wish your time and money were limitless and hope you don't get lost at the end of the shopping trip.

Taksim Fashion Avenue

Unlike the Grand Bazaar, the Taksim Square area is a boulevard that mainly focuses on fashion and accessory shops. In the evening or on weekends, this wide boulevard is always crowded with people walking and shopping. All the world's famous fashion brands are present here, besides high-end and luxury fashion brands, there are also many good quality and affordable Turkish garments. This is also the most crowded Turkish street to walk and shop on holidays and festivals.

Shopping spots in Istanbul:

In addition to the Grand Bazaar and Taksim Square, visitors should visit the Spice Bazaar, also known as the Egyptian market.

What to buy in Istanbul:

- Souvenirs, traditional handicrafts, spices, dried fruits and especially pottery, carpets, wool coats, leather jackets.

- Turkish Delight are traditional Turkish sweets that are often bought as gifts.

Shopping tips:

- Don't rush to bargain when shopping, carefully check the quality and consult the price. When deciding to buy, start bargaining from 30% of the price the seller suggested.

- Buy carpets and pottery: Turkish carpets and pottery are handicrafts famous all over the world for their quality and intricate, sophisticated patterns. These two items are sold a lot in Istanbul and other tourist cities. However, prices in each store can be very different depending on 3 factors: material, product size, sophistication and production time, and finally your bargaining ability.

A hand-woven silk rug can take two women a year to make. Good quality rugs can cost anywhere from a few hundred dollars to tens of thousands of dollars, with warranties and shipping. Ceramics are similarly priced and sold.

The Thanh