Ninh Thuan Discovery Diary

13/04/2019

At the invitation of a Ninh Thuan brother, a few of us decided to go on a trip to explore the land known as the driest in the country. And if you still think that dry places are often boring, follow the article below!

Dazzled on night trains

This time, everyone chose the train as their main means of transportation both ways. At 7:30 p.m., I arrived at Saigon Station. In front of the station, there is an overnight parking lot, which is very convenient for tourists who are on a long trip. I must admit that Saigon Station is quite beautiful and clean. Inside, there are many rows of seats for tourists to sit and wait for the train. There are shops selling food and supplies, including fast food.

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Going up, we met two of our group members who had arrived earlier. A few minutes later, almost everyone was there. At around 8 o'clock, the station announced that tourists could board the train. Everyone quickly passed through the control gate to enter the platform. Saigon Station has 4-5 tracks, there are signs right at the entrance so everyone should pay attention to go in the right direction. Our train tonight is SNT2, a tourist train running the fixed route Saigon - Nha Trang.

At 8:30 pm the train started rolling, a group of 6 people fit into a room, each side had 3 beds from low to high, the prices were the same, low was the most expensive and the higher the price, the lower it got. There were also 6 bottles of mineral water on the table, so it was okay. My impression of SNT2 was quite good, clean, on time, the train was new, the only minus point and quite disappointing was when the staff announced that this train did not have a canteen and also did not have staff pushing a food cart at night.

Well, let's just drink some water and chat. After a while, the whole group gradually fell asleep. Everyone took the opportunity to catch some sleep because the train would arrive at Thap Cham station very early (around 4:30) and the whole next day would be filled with activities and experiences.

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While we're talking about trains, let's share with you the train on the return day. If you're at the top at SNT2, you'll feel disappointed when going back by SE5. This is a train that runs the North-South route, not a fixed route like a tourist train. You can't buy a sleeper berth, so you choose a soft seat with air conditioning. The seats aren't a problem, but because I sat in the last row next to the restroom, every time a passenger came in or out, the distinctive smell hit my nose. After getting on the train for a while, the guys invited each other to go down to the cafeteria for lunch. Luckily, the train had a cafeteria compartment.

There is a canteen but when we got there, it was already full of customers, so we bought a lunch box to eat on the chair. Each meal is 35k with ribs, stir-fried food and minced meat. On a scale of 10, I rate this lunch box 6/10, okay.

If possible, you should book all the train tickets, the trains are new, clean, and smoother. I appreciate the punctuality of both SNT2 and SE5, only a few minutes difference. More information for your reference:

Trang thông tin du lịch và phong cách sống Travellive+
  • SNT2 Saigon – Nha Trang: Departure at 8:30 p.m., arrival at Thap Cham station at 4:30 a.m.; Second floor sleeper ticket: 450,000 VND.
  • SE5 Hanoi – Saigon: arrive at Thap Cham station at 12:45, return to Saigon at 18:45, a slight difference from the expected time; Soft seat ticket with air conditioning: 256,000 VND.

Visit An Hoa sheep field and Thanh Son lake

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At 4:30 on Saturday morning, the train arrived at Thap Cham station and the driver was there to take us to the first destination, Nai Du Khanh market. We walked along the main road and watched the beautiful sunrise gradually appearing behind the mountains towards the sea. Along the way, there were many boats transporting fish to the market or to traders after a night trip at sea.

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At 6:30, everyone was hungry so they went to the market to find breakfast. There were only two or three shops open, I chose fish noodle soup to enjoy. The fish cake was fresh, chewy with a moderately sweet broth, with a little peanuts, quite unique. The bowl of noodles was finished in a flash, and with a big spring roll for dessert, I was full. The total cost was 30,000 VND, very cheap.

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This morning we were lucky to meet Thanh, a very lovely new friend. Thanh became our tour guide on our journey to explore Phuoc Nhon Cham village and understand more about the culture and customs of the Cham people here.

The next stop is An Hoa sheep field and Thanh Son lake, famous places of Ninh Thuan where many young people come to check-in. I don't care much about that, I just know that I'm setting foot in one of the most important irrigation lakes of Ninh Thuan. You know, water is precious everywhere, but in the driest place in our country, how valuable is it?

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Sheep are the main livestock of Ninh Thuan agriculture because of their drought resistance, below the dam is a sheep farm. However, traveling is always associated with luck because you can't always see what you want. Unfortunately, the group didn't see any sheep in this area.

VISIT PHUOC NHON CHAM VILLAGE AND INTERESTING STORIES ABOUT CHAM CULTURE

Leaving Thanh Son Lake, Thanh guided our group to visit Phuoc Nhon Cham village. The first destination in the village was very strange and curious to all of us, it was the Cham cemetery. To add a little more, on the way to the cemetery we were lucky to meet a herd of sheep that could be up to a hundred. Without saying much, the whole group swooped down to accompany the sheep.

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When standing in front of the Cham cemetery, the first feeling is that it is not much like a cemetery because if you compare it to a Vietnamese cemetery, there will be many tombstones, but the Cham cemetery does not. Coming here, you do not feel heavy or gloomy, perhaps partly because the Cham do not use incense like the Vietnamese, inside the cemetery there are also lush trees even though Ninh Thuan is the driest place.

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Thanh explained to us that after the Cham Ba Ni people die, they will be buried according to their own rituals. Each clan will have its own grave and each grave will be marked with a stone. The shape, color, and size depend on the needs and financial capacity of each family. There is no obligation in this. Furthermore, in the funeral of the Cham Ba Ni people, there is no crying but it will take place in a happy atmosphere because they believe that there is life after death. The dead will live in another realm and not disappear, so everyone needs to be happy and bless the deceased.

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However, to be buried in the clan cemetery, the deceased must die in their village. If they die outside the village or elsewhere, they will be buried outside the cemetery. 1-2 years later, a ceremony will be held to move the grave inside. For the Cham Bani, there are many festivals a year, but the most important is the Ramưwan festival, held on September 1 of the Islamic calendar, which this year will be June 18.

Along with the meaning of submitting to God and glorifying Allah, the Cham Bani people who practice the Ramưwan festival also have the meaning of inheriting and preserving the cultural identity of the ancient indigenous Brahman beliefs and religions. The Ramưwan festival is a ladder of "communion" with God and ancestors in the spiritual life of each believer. At the same time, it is a cultural and spiritual product forged from the traditional folk beliefs of this nation, contributing to enhancing the humanistic values ​​and cultural identity of the nation.

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After leaving the cemetery, we visited the Ba Ni Cham mosque and the Phuoc Nhon mosque to listen to Thanh explain more clearly about the customs of the Cham people here. We have to thank Thanh very much because without him, we would only be able to ride horses to see the flowers and not know more about the life and culture of the Cham people, who in my opinion are a people with a very progressive way of life and thinking in some aspects.

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On the way back to our Ninh Thuan friend Kafin's house, the group stopped by Dam Vua salt field. When we arrived, we saw some brothers and sisters harvesting salt. Behind them were the typical mountain ranges of Nui Chua National Park, which has the most typical dry forest in Vietnam.

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My travel diary stops here. If you want to learn more, please come to Ninh Thuan!

Nguyen Hai Vinh
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