Kotor, a forgotten land of fairy tales...

A lonely tomb on the mountaintop

To this day, I vividly remember the strange feeling as the car drove away from the ancient capital of Cetinje in Montenegro – the fourth least populated country in Europe. Eagerly admiring the majestic mountain scenery ahead, the sound of the engine and wheels seemed to vanish completely, as if sucked into the sea that was rapidly descending down the mountain slopes. Aside from a sign indicating "turn left to Lovcen and go straight to the ancient city of Kotor," the road ahead was empty.

That feeling of emptiness lingered as we reached the foot of the mountain, where a parking lot appeared suddenly, as if it had fallen from the sky. Looking up, we saw a structure that seemed incredibly distant – the tomb of Lord Petar Petrovic Njegos (1813-1851) perched atop a very high mountain. The lord, a poet with a philosophical mind, chose this mountain peak, 1,749 meters above sea level, as his final resting place, and to this day, it remains the highest tomb in the world. The structure, built in this open space high above, has a layout that is both compact and airy, or in Eastern terms, has beautiful feng shui. Even though I don't like visiting temples and tombs, I didn't find this place mysterious or gloomy.

From the summit, visitors can observe the rolling mountain ranges below, the tranquil plateau in the distance, and the drifting clouds in the middle. It truly is an endless ocean of rocks, as described in a travelogue by Bernard Shaw. If your eyesight is sharp, or if you have the binoculars of a professional mountaineer, you might even see all of Italy on a clear afternoon like this. Remembering the brief introduction to Lovcen National Park in a tourist guide, we hurried down the mountain after stopping at a small souvenir shop.

The heritage town of Perast: Where has its glory gone?

The car sped past numerous churches and monuments along villages like Njegusi and Ivanova Korita. Because we had to reach the heritage town of Perast before sunset, we didn't have time to linger too long at each monument. My only thought was: Are there more churches and monuments than actual people here? The midday silence became increasingly eerie as the afternoon progressed.

Upon arriving in Perast, the bright sunlight seemed to recede into the sky, and clouds enveloped everything as if it were early morning. This town, with fewer than 700 inhabitants, was eerily quiet, despite being considered one of the most beautiful places in the Boka Kotorska region. The narrow streets seemed to shrink beneath the old stone-walled mansions. The monasteries and chapels were closed and silent. It was hard to imagine that this had once been a bustling gathering place for merchants, captains, and sailors hundreds of years ago.

The air here is pleasantly cool year-round; if you take a deep breath, you can sense the lingering elegance of a post-Renaissance upscale town. It's unknown which bell tower was built with the proceeds from the sale of pure gold donated by the people of Perast, but the sound of the bells still resonates with great solemnity. Stopping to listen carefully, you can hear both the footsteps of ancient times and the rustling of the wind, suddenly feeling that this place is truly mysterious.

Walking along the coast from the town, you'll find two small islands, each topped with an ancient castle with a bright red tiled roof – Sveti Dorde (St. George) and Gospa od Skrpjela (Our Lady of the Stone). Gospa od Skrpjela is said to be the only artificial island in the Adriatic Sea, covering approximately 3,000 square meters.²It was built by locals on a submerged rock after two Venetian sailors traveling from Perast found a portrait of the Virgin Mary on that rock.

The city is steeped in memory.

As darkness fell, everything became quieter. Upon arriving at a family-run hotel, the sight of the windows adorned with pretty potted plants, the warm yellow lights illuminating the room, and the delicious aroma of food wafting from the hotel's canteen, gradually dispelled our nervousness. The hotel room resembled a room in a local's house; the bed was clean, but the desk was still messy. In one drawer lay someone's Montenegrin passport, either forgotten or intentionally left behind. Thankfully, drowsiness came quickly after a long day of driving, preventing me from dwelling on my worries.

Leaving the hotel at dawn, amidst the clear morning birdsong and a cool breeze, the anxieties of the previous night only faded away when we tried to return the key to the owner but found no one in the living room. Looking into the next room, we saw an elderly woman in her eighties dozing on a reclining chair, then suddenly waking up and muttering something. Luckily, a neighbor passed by, and I quickly handed her the room key. Suddenly, both the old woman and the neighbor seemed like people from a bygone century.

The car sped towards the ancient city of Kotor – Montenegro's armor. Kotor is a very typical example of Venetian defensive architecture, with its small, gray cobblestone streets, churches and monasteries not unlike those of neighboring ancient cities, most notably Dubrovnik. The same moss-covered railings, stylish cafes, and bustling squares. I'll return to this place when I tell you about defensive heritage sites in Europe. For now, I just want to mention a unique image here: witches' brooms hanging from the pathways leading out of the city gates. What does this image have to do with the legend of hallucinogenic potions made from moldy rye bread? Does anyone ride these brooms flying away at night? I'd love to tell more, but I fear you might imagine a more spooky version of Boka Kotorska than the real thing.

In fact, looking through the mist, Kotor Bay is still very blue and very clear.

Here are some more pictures of life in Kotor.

Additional information

Visa:Although not part of the EU, Montenegro grants visa-free entry to visitors with a multiple-entry Schengen visa or Schengen residence permit. You have 15 days to explore the many stunning sights of this magnificent country.

Trip:From Vietnam, there are no direct flights to Montenegro; a layover in one of several countries is required. Two budget airlines you can choose from are Qatar Airways (with a layover in Doha) and Turkish Airlines (with a layover in Istanbul). In Montenegro, there are two modern airports: Podgorica and Tivat. From the airport, you can get to the city center using various means of transportation such as taxis, buses, and tour company vehicles.

Means of transportation:Tourist attractions in Montenegro are generally close together, so you can easily walk. For more distant locations, the most popular and cheapest mode of transportation is the bus, which runs every 5 minutes. You can also take a taxi, but remember to ask for the price beforehand as they don't have taximeters.

Time:You can travel to Montenegro at any time of year, as each season has its own unique beauty and charm. However, the ideal time to visit is from March to October, with July and August being the peak months. During this time, the weather is cool and pleasant, not too hot, making it suitable for sightseeing, admiring, and exploring Montenegro's stunning natural beauty.

Accommodation:Many hotels in Montenegro offer discounts for early bookings, before the end of January. Look for hotels that allow cancellations up to 48 hours in advance without penalty. Before making a booking, use apps like Hostelworld, Booking.com, or HostelBookers to compare prices.

Cuisine:Montenegro is heavily influenced by the culinary cultures of Greece, Italy, and Türkiye. Despite this, this beautiful country still boasts many delicious and appealing dishes that you should try, such as: potato salad, Jahni bean soup, oven-baked salmon, roasted suckling pig, roasted lamb, and more. Don't forget to sample some of its signature drinks, including mountain tea (Çaj Li), Bozë, beer, wine, and Raki.

Money:Montenegro uses the euro (EUR), with 1 EUR worth approximately 28,000 VND.

Some of the attractions include:

- Centinje:This quiet town, brimming with cultural colors and medieval architecture, was the capital of Montenegro until 1946. Founded in the 15th century, it still preserves many monasteries, Orthodox churches, and several small museums.

ButOstrog MonasteryVisitors are allowed free entry, but dress code is important. Clothing must cover the shoulders and arms and extend past the knees. Women must cover their heads with scarves. Ostrog, with its unique architecture, is carved almost entirely into a vertical cliff. Despite its 400-year history, the monastery still retains the ancient and sacred values ​​of this land.

ButDurmitor National Park:Established in 1952, the main winter activities here are skiing and snowboarding. Summer activities include mountaineering and recreational tourism. One of the most attractive destinations in Mount Durmitor is the 18 frozen lakes, the most famous of which is Crno. If you're lucky, you might spot brown bears, wolves, wildcats, eagles, and owls in this national park.

Bui Anh Tuan