'Going to the mountains to find the cave' of the yellow wild sunflowers

Text and photos: Hai An - Le Phuc

During a trip to discover new routes for backpackers, I was captivated when I found myself lost on steep, winding roads covered in a vibrant red hue of fertile basalt soil… On this challenging path, when I stumbled into the world of a fragranceless wild flower called the sunflower, amidst the vast morning light, when countless dewdrops sparkled, reflecting the sunlight like glittering diamonds under the brilliant sun, and the patches of beautiful flowers, I was mesmerized by the golden color of the flowers and the sun.

That evening, intoxicated by the rice wine and the xoang dance in Jil village, as I received garlands of wild sunflowers from the mountain girls, I fell silent upon hearing the legend: the flower originated from a tragic love story between K'lang and the beautiful H'linh. In those days, the entire mountain forest bowed before the talent of K'lang – a brave warrior who gave his heart to H'linh – the most beautiful girl in the region, and she reciprocated. However, the happiness of the lovers was short-lived, as they perished due to a cruel act of revenge fueled by jealousy.La Rihn's son - the chieftain La Sieng who governed a nearby village.

Overwhelmed by H'linh's beauty, La Rihn proposed marriage with many gongs and precious gifts as a dowry. But H'linh revealed that she only loved and wove the ceremonial scarf for her husband, and that this dowry was for K'lang. Filled with resentment, La Rihn kidnapped K'lang while he was hunting in the forest… Weary of waiting for her lover, H'linh, with a premonition of impending doom, abandoned her village to search for him, a journey that stretched across mountains and streams… Finally, upon finding K'lang, H'linh was heartbroken to realize he was dying from the poisoned spears inflicted by La Rihn. Determined to protect her lover to the very end, H'linh died with K'lang, holding him tightly in her arms, and she was executed by La Rihn in a fit of jealous rage.

From then on, a type of wild flower sprouted at the burial place of the two lovers. They flourished and bloomed only in late autumn, the time when the lovers met their tragic end due to irrational jealousy… And the wild sunflower has been a symbol of a heartbreaking love story of the Central Highlands people from then until now.

At first glance, wild sunflowers closely resemble regular sunflowers. Compared to flowers like peach blossoms, roses, lilies, and orchids, wild sunflowers lack the delicate beauty of other wildflowers, as they are simply wild flowers that grow naturally without human care. Depending on the dialect, wild sunflowers are also called mountain sunflowers, wild chrysanthemums, or chrysanthemum sunflowers, because the flower originates from a species of chrysanthemum found in Mexico. The most unusual thing about wild sunflowers is that they only live and thrive in high mountain regions, where the verdant peaks are always visible amidst the drifting white clouds each morning. If you've ever experienced winter in the Central Highlands, perhaps amidst the biting cold of the mountains that numbs your hands and feet, encountering a landscape of hills covered in wild sunflowers seems to warm the traveler's heart, as if being embraced by a whole forest of captivating, vibrant yellow flowers.

During this season, when you visit the mountain towns of B'Lao (Bao Loc), Di Linh, or wander along the winding roads to Dambri Waterfall and the highlands of Dran, Tu Tra, Bong Lai, etc., you will be captivated by the breathtaking beauty of a sky full of yellow wild sunflowers vying for the sunlight. In the early morning, the sunflowers still seem shy and drowsy, drifting lazily in the swirling morning mist. When the sun rises brightly, the petals suddenly burst open, showcasing their full beauty and making the mountains and hills shimmer with light. And when the sunset signals the arrival of the setting sun with its fading golden rays, the flowers suddenly become more dreamy, poetic, and sweet in the whispers of the deep green mountains and forests.

If you've never experienced the enchanting sight of wild sunflowers blooming in the Central Highlands, it's never a bad idea to embark on a journey exploring the region, from Lam Dong through Dak Nong, Dak Lak to Kon Tum… continuing through Sa Thay, Mang Den, Ngoc Hoi…, you'll be captivated by the sight of hills covered in golden wild sunflowers along every road and alleyway.

In the crisp, cool morning breeze, the Central Highlands landscape trembles before a vast, magnificent, and breathtaking scene of wild sunflowers intertwining and crowding together. Continuing on, the waves of flowers stretch into a giant green carpet dotted with countless shades of yellow, chasing each other in the gusts of wind along National Highway 19 from Binh Dinh to Gia Lai. This enchanting image forms the border of the tourist area surrounding Bien Ho Lake, creates a magical pathway to the foot of Ham Rong Mountain, and transforms into hills of golden flowers that linger, captivating anyone who has wandered here.

The Thanh