What's so special about the Bat Trang ceramic feast, the epitome of Northern Vietnamese cuisine, priced at 2.5 million VND, that's causing so much debate?

08/05/2025

Located on the left bank of the Red River, 10km from the center of Hanoi, the ancient Bat Trang pottery village, with its history spanning approximately 600 years and strong cultural and spiritual imprints, is also one of Hanoi's distinctive "culinary cradles." Bat Trang cuisine is famous for its unique characteristics, which have been preserved and developed by the locals for hundreds of years.

Bat Trang pottery village, with its history spanning approximately six centuries, is not only famous for its exquisite ceramic products imbued with cultural and spiritual significance, but also known as one of Hanoi's distinctive "culinary cradles." Here, Bat Trang cuisine has become a culinary symbol, preserving and promoting unique characteristics over hundreds of years, imbued with the traditional flavors and essence of the imperial capital.

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In recent days, a heated debate has erupted in the community regarding the value of Bat Trang ceramic feasts – an indispensable part of Hanoi's culinary culture. The focus of the controversy lies in the price, which is often no less than two million dong for a complete feast. Some argue that this price is too high and disproportionate to its actual value. However, many others have defended the Bat Trang feast, firmly asserting that this high price is justified by the quality of the fresh ingredients, the meticulous preparation, and above all, the unique and refined flavors that the Bat Trang feast offers, which have been cultivated and preserved through generations.

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"Both memory and culture are necessary for a unique taste to be formed."

Similar to the sophistication and elaborateness of the traditional Tet feast in the ancient capital, wealthy families in Bat Trang pottery village also maintain a distinctive culinary tradition, expressed through the "eight treasures" feast consisting of six bowls and eight plates. This number is not simply the quantity of dishes but also carries a profound symbolic meaning of prosperity and good fortune, representing good wishes for a peaceful and prosperous new year. Meanwhile, middle-class and ordinary families often prepare a feast of "four bowls and four plates," symbolizing the four seasons and the four directions, representing stability and harmony in life.

Cỗ Bát Tràng - tinh hoa ẩm thực đậm đà bản sắc hương vị Việt

Bat Trang Feast - the essence of Vietnamese cuisine with rich and distinctive flavors.

Despite variations in quantity, the traditional Tet feast in Bat Trang village still includes popular dishes that embody the authentic flavors of Vietnamese Tet, such as golden fried spring rolls, a glossy boiled chicken, shimmering stir-fried vermicelli, fragrant stewed pigeon, smooth white pork sausage slices, square green sticky rice cakes, aromatic cinnamon pork sausage, and a delicate, refreshing soup. However, what makes this feast unique is the presence of dishes that bear the distinctive mark of the village's craft and the land along the Red River.

Cỗ Bát Tràng hội tụ nhiều món ngon, được chế biến kỳ công, tỉ mỉ từ đôi tay khéo léo của người dân làng gốm nổi tiếng bao đời

The Bat Trang feast brings together many delicious dishes, meticulously and skillfully prepared by the hands of the people of this famous pottery village for generations.

One of the indispensable "souls" of the Bat Trang feast is pigeon spring rolls. Completely different from ordinary spring rolls, pigeon spring rolls offer a delicate, nutritious, and captivating flavor. To create this special dish, the chef must meticulously select young pigeons with tender and naturally sweet meat. After being finely minced, the pigeon meat is mixed thoroughly with fresh, diced vegetables such as carrots, kohlrabi, wood ear mushrooms, shiitake mushrooms, along with egg yolks and traditional spices seasoned according to a family secret recipe. The wrapping process also requires skill and meticulousness to create small, bite-sized spring rolls with a thin rice paper wrapper that turns golden brown and crispy when fried.

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Sự tỉ mỉ và khéo léo được ghi dấu trong món nem

The meticulousness and skill are evident in this spring roll dish.

Furthermore, the shrimp patties in Bat Trang's traditional feasts are a testament to the creativity and skillful combination of ingredients by the local people. Fresh shrimp, caught from the rivers and waterways surrounding the village, are pounded or ground into a paste, then seasoned to taste and shaped into round or elongated patties, depending on the host's preference. What sets Bat Trang shrimp patties apart is the clever addition of finely chopped betel leaves to the mixture. When these patties are grilled over charcoal, the strong, distinctive aroma of betel leaves spreads, blending with the alluring scent of the golden-brown cooked shrimp.

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Boiled chicken seems to be an indispensable part of any traditional Vietnamese feast, and the Bat Trang feast is no exception. However, the boiled chicken in this feast is usually small, carefully selected free-range chickens to ensure firm, fragrant meat with a natural golden color. The secret to a beautiful and delicious plate of boiled chicken lies not only in the quality of the chicken but also in the technique of boiling it just right, so that the chicken skin is golden, shiny, and not torn. When chopped, the chicken pieces must be uniform and arranged in a way that retains the original shape of the whole chicken, showing respect for the dish and those who will enjoy it.

Món gà luộc tưởng chừng đơn giản nhưng cũng nhiều công sức được gửi gắm

Boiled chicken may seem like a simple dish, but it actually requires a lot of effort.

The uniqueness of Bat Trang cuisine is further showcased in the stir-fried dried squid with kohlrabi dish. High-quality dried squid is lightly grilled over hot charcoal to bring out its distinctive aroma, then shredded into bite-sized strips. Fresh kohlrabi is peeled, sliced ​​into bite-sized pieces, and quickly stir-fried over high heat to retain its natural crispness and sweetness. Especially on New Year's Day, the stir-fried kohlrabi with squid can be replaced with a plate of roasted almonds, symbolizing good fortune and prosperity.

Món mực khô xào su hào

Stir-fried dried squid with kohlrabi

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Sticky rice with mung beans is a familiar dish in traditional Vietnamese cuisine, but in the Bat Trang feast, it holds a special meaning, symbolizing abundance and prosperity. The sticky rice is usually made from glutinous rice of the "golden flower" variety, a type of rice with large, round, sticky, and fragrant grains characteristic of the Northern Delta region. After being steamed until soft, the mung beans are finely ground and then stir-fried with sugar until fluffy, creating a golden coating that covers the pristine white rice grains. When enjoyed, people mix the sticky rice with the mung beans, creating fluffy, chewy balls of sticky rice with an attractive golden color and the rich aroma of fresh rice blended with the nutty flavor of mung beans. This simple yet flavorful dish, often served with sweet soup or sweet soup with areca flowers, forms a perfect pairing for a spring feast.

Xôi vò không thể thiếu trên mâm cỗ truyền thống của người Việt

Sticky rice with mung beans is an indispensable part of traditional Vietnamese feasts.

Finally, the bamboo shoot and squid soup is perhaps the most distinctly local dish in the Bat Trang feast, evoking memories of the gentle Red River and the region's bounty. Carefully selected dried bamboo shoots, either the "nứa" or "lẩu lợn" varieties, are boiled until tender and then shredded into bite-sized pieces. Dried squid is also lightly grilled over charcoal to enhance its flavor before being shredded. The broth is typically simmered from pork or chicken bones, giving it a naturally sweet and savory taste.

Món canh măng mực trong mâm cỗ truyền thống

Bamboo shoot and squid soup is a traditional dish in Vietnamese feasts.

Traditional culture in every bite of food.

Despite discussions about the somewhat high price, Bat Trang's traditional feast proudly asserts its special appeal, attracting countless diners who come to fully enjoy the uniqueness and traditional values ​​hidden within each dish.

To recreate an authentic Bat Trang feast according to ancient customs, the chef is not simply a cook but also an artist, undergoing a meticulous and elaborate preparation process down to the smallest detail. From selecting the freshest, seasonal ingredients to the preparation and cooking of each dish, it requires skillful hands, extensive experience accumulated over generations, and above all, a passionate heart, pouring love into every flavor. Each dish on the feast table holds its own secrets, from the subtle way of marinating to bring out the characteristic aroma, the masterful cooking techniques to preserve the natural sweetness of the ingredients, to the harmonious and beautiful art of presentation that stimulates all the senses of the diner.

Dẫu có nhiều tranh cãi về giá trị nhưng mâm cỗ Bát Tràng vẫn thu hút nhiều thực khách đến thưởng thức

Despite much debate about its value, Bat Trang ceramic platters still attract many diners to enjoy them.

Amidst the hustle and bustle of modern life, where traditional values ​​sometimes risk fading, the Bat Trang ceramic feast steadfastly maintains its position, becoming a beautiful and cherished symbol of Hanoi's culinary culture. It's not simply a meal to satisfy the palate, but a journey back in time, allowing diners to discover ancient flavors and culinary essences refined over generations.

Enjoying a Bat Trang feast is a profound cultural experience, reflecting respect for the past, pride in the fine traditional values ​​of our ancestors, and a connecting thread between generations in the family and community, allowing everyone to savor the flavors of the countryside and the thousand-year-old cultural identity of Thang Long - Hanoi.

Khanh Linh - Source: Compilation
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