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Food and community
Coincidentally, while brainstorming ideas for this article, I was introduced to the book "The Story of Hoi An Cuisine" by Nir Avieli. It's a profound study of the role of food in social life in Hoi An, a famous town in central Vietnam. The author uses ethnographic methods to explore how food not only reflects but also shapes social relationships, gender roles, religion, and cultural identity.
Avieli emphasizes that Hoi An cuisine is not just food but also a cultural symbol, deeply marked by history and cultural exchange from China, Japan, and France. The author also addresses the important role of women in preparing and maintaining traditional values through cuisine, analyzing how family meals reflect social structure and family relationships, delving into feasts and festivals, from weddings to religious ceremonies, to illustrate how food connects communities and expresses collective identity, and discussing how tourism and globalization are impacting Hoi An cuisine, from changes in ingredients to preparation and serving methods.
Cuisine not only reflects but also shapes social relationships, gender roles, religion, and cultural identity.
In the opening chapter, he wrote: "Breakfast in the small riverside town of Hoi An has never been a simple matter, as the choices and variety seem overwhelming…" This sentence reminded me of the awkward situation I faced around 2009 while living in Singapore. Every morning, stepping out onto the street, I missed the breakfast stalls in Vietnam. While Vietnamese breakfast options were so diverse and the stalls opened very early, in Singapore, shops usually opened after 8 am, and when I thought of breakfast, the first and only image that came to mind was crispy, rich kaya toast served with soft-boiled eggs and coffee (kopi) or tea (teh). That was the first time in my life living in a foreign country, the first time I realized that food is a mirror reflecting a culture.
Since then, I've developed a fondness for books and articles on food, and whenever I travel, I often make time to visit local markets and enjoy dishes prepared by the locals. For example, following the glimpses in the essay "Other Colors" by Turkish writer Orhan Pamuk, I was captivated by the street food carts in Istanbul and the atmosphere surrounding those fast-food stalls. He wrote that in Istanbul, people eat fast food to escape Islamic tradition, which associates food with the idea of mothers, grandmothers, and sacredness, to seek novelty, and to breathe in modern life.
I felt I could naturally blend into the atmosphere of this city connecting the two shores of Asia and Europe while queuing for a kebab sandwich, a glass of orange and pomegranate juice, or an ice cream. Or when I went to Hue and held the book "Eating in Hue" by author Phi Tan in my hands, I not only enjoyed famous Hue dishes like beef noodle soup, banh beo, banh nam, banh loc, com am phu, com hen… but also discovered simple, traditional dishes found in Hue family meals such as braised termite mushrooms with bamboo shoots and soy sauce, anchovy soup, crab cooked with starfruit, and banana stem stewed with beef bones… While enjoying the food, I also learned to observe the cook's movements, how they arranged the meal, the family's daily routines, and listened to the stories around the table to connect more deeply with the culture of the people of Hue.
While enjoying the meal, I also learned to observe the cook's movements, how they arranged the food, the family's daily routines, and listened to the stories around the table to connect more deeply with the culture of the people of Hue.
Indeed, enjoying local cuisine is not simply about eating and drinking, but also a form of cultural exchange. For example, when it comes to Japanese cuisine, sushi, ramen, or matcha are not just dishes, but also a part of a way of life, a respect for nature, and a balance in every small detail.
In Italian cuisine, pizza and pasta are not simply fast food but also reflect the love of life, creativity, and pride of the Mediterranean people. Sitting at a street food stall in Bangkok, you not only sample Pad Thai but also observe and feel the bustling pace of life. Participating in a Chinese hot pot feast is not just about eating; it's about connecting with friends and family through lively conversations. In France, culinary culture is not just about enjoying delicious food but also about the art of living. From selecting fresh ingredients and presenting dishes elegantly to savoring meals for an extended period, everything reflects an appreciation for life and aesthetic values.
Indeed, enjoying local cuisine is not just about eating and drinking, but also a form of cultural exchange.
A bridge connecting international cuisine and tourism.
Today, culinary tourism has become a popular trend, where travelers can experience culture through food. Food tours, cooking classes, and local food festivals not only help tourists gain a deeper understanding of the culture but also provide opportunities for direct interaction with locals. For example, festivals like Oktoberfest in Germany or La Tomatina in Spain offer visitors the chance to enjoy food and immerse themselves in vibrant cultural activities.
In 2015, I represented Withlocals – a Dutch-based travel service company – to assess the quality of local food tours in Thailand, which led to a two-week business trip to Bangkok and Chiang Mai. At that time, Airbnb hadn't yet exploited this very promising tourism segment, and travel companies worldwide were just beginning to explore the idea of connecting tourists directly with locals to experience tours organized by the locals themselves. Therefore, I was incredibly excited about this new experience. And the trip unfolded exactly as expected! In Bangkok, I had the good fortune to meet two people named Som, the owners of The Yard Bangkok homestay.
My friends took us home, where we enjoyed a home-cooked meal prepared by the nanny. She's over 60, but she's a very skilled and delicious cook. That's how I learned the secret to making authentic Thai papaya salad (som tam) and spicy shrimp soup (tom yum), and I learned that Thai food tastes best with palm sugar. In Chiang Mai, Aree took me to the local market to buy ingredients, and at his house, we cooked red curry, spicy chicken soup with coconut milk, pad thai, and spicy fried chicken patties. In Vietnam, I usually cooked Thai food using pre-packaged spice mixes, but thanks to Aree's enthusiastic guidance, I can now confidently make broth for soups and curry mixtures using fresh ingredients.
During this trip, I also met several other Thais, and stepping into each house and kitchen gave me a deeper understanding of the rich and diverse lifestyle of modern Thais. I learned about new aspects of their thoughts and feelings that I had never known before, through the way they prepare, present, and enjoy their food. A specific example is that in Thai families, they use spoons and forks instead of chopsticks, influenced by Western culture during the modernization process of the 19th century under the reigns of Kings Rama IV and Rama V. This way of eating suits Thai dishes, which are typically prepared in small portions, easily scooped with a spoon, with the fork only serving to push the food. However, chopsticks are still used when eating noodles, a part of Chinese cuisine, demonstrating the flexible blending in Thai dining culture. That experience was far better than simply visiting a new land and sightseeing.
Another incredibly spontaneous culinary experience that left a deep impression on me was my visit to Penang Island in Malaysia. One morning, still undecided about where to go, I wandered into a local market near George Town's Old Town and was amazed by the richness of the food there. While I lived in Singapore, there was a large Malaysian community and Malaysian food was readily available, but it didn't quite suit my taste. The food at this market, however, was different – both unfamiliar and delicious: fried dough with its loose pieces, not bound together into large chunks and served on a plate but wrapped in paper, easily held in your hand and enjoyed while walking; peanut butter egg tarts with a thick, crispy crust but a soft center, filled with fragrant peanuts – one bite and you're instantly hooked; duck noodle soup with noodles, shredded duck meat, fish balls, onions, and cilantro, but without accompanying vegetables, mainly focused on enjoying the sweet and savory flavor of the broth. Stir-fried rice noodles with bean sprouts, chili peppers, dried fish, and Sambal chili sauce; sticky rice served with dried fish, cashews, mushrooms, pork, eggs, and Sambal chili sauce; and especially, tofu pudding and soy milk made with brown sugar instead of white sugar… Locals gather in small groups with family members in the eateries. From restaurants to street vendors' carts, the air is filled with lively chatter and laughter. From the ingredients, flavors, preparation methods, and presentation of the food stalls in the market, one can discern the cultural exchange between the Chinese, Indian, and Malaysian communities.
In Penang, the cuisine of the Peranakan, also known as Baba-Nyonya, is still prevalent. These are Chinese immigrants who settled in Penang, Malacca, Singapore, and Indonesia, and married local Malaysians, creating a unique culture that blends Chinese and Malaysian influences. Peranakan cuisine is more complex than traditional Malaysian food, harmoniously combining spicy, sour, sweet, and salty flavors. The dishes are not only delicious but also elaborately presented, showcasing care and sophistication. Peranakan culture emphasizes family unity, so meals are often shared and enjoyed together. I found Kebaya restaurant specializing in Peranakan cuisine and tried dishes such as fish curry, soft-shell crab salad with raw fish and seaweed, lamb stew with a rich sauce made from cinnamon, star anise, and soy sauce, and glutinous rice balls in a sweet syrup made from palm sugar mixed with butter, milk, or cream. The use of French cooking techniques brings creativity and sophistication to dishes, showcasing the vitality of Peranakan cuisine, which is constantly evolving and integrating with global culinary trends.
There are countless other unique local culinary experiences that I could talk about day after day. From the simplest meals, like a cold morning sitting among ethnic minority people at Dong Van market, frowning and savoring thang co (a traditional stew) with men men (cornmeal porridge) amidst laughter and encouragement from fellow countrymen who speak different languages, to luxurious meals like at the 7-star Dubai Burj Al Arab hotel, enjoying tender stews infused with cinnamon, cloves, turmeric, and cardamom while admiring gold-plated dishes. Or a refined meal in the warm ambiance of a renowned Michelin-starred restaurant in Seoul, savoring the famous hanwoo beef and observing how Koreans toast each other.
The more places you travel, the more you realize that new experiences enrich old ones, and conversely, old experiences form the foundation for even richer new experiences. Among the countless travel experiences, enjoying local cuisine is a way to open the door to the cultural world of each region. Surely, food is a bridge connecting our souls to the world.
