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Baekbanjip is struggling to survive amidst changing customer preferences.
Kim Young-hee, 70, the owner of Cheongju Restaurant in Hapjeong-dong, western Seoul, is facing a severe decline in customers.
A decade ago, she served over 100 customers a day, but now that number is only about half. There used to be around 10 baekbanjip restaurants operating in the area, but now Ms. Kim's is the only one left, even though the neighborhood remains a favorite spot for young people.
Traditional restaurants specializing in home-style meals, also known as "baekbanjip," are gradually losing their popularity in South Korea.
According to Ms. Kim, the main reason for the decline of baekbanjip is a change in diners' tastes. “The traditional cuisine we once loved can't keep up with the changes. Nowadays, people prefer Western flavors or fusion dishes. I've noticed many young customers in this area prefer going to the ramen shop next door rather than mine,” Ms. Kim said.
The disappearance of family-run eateries isn't limited to Seoul; it's spreading to other regions. Jeil Miga, once famous for its affordable meals catering to Sungkyunkwan University students for over 30 years, closed in 2021. Another baekbanjip (rice bowl) restaurant near Hallym University in Chuncheon, Gangwon Province, also ceased operations in March 2024 after nearly two decades of serving customers.
The main reason for the decline of baekbanjip is the change in diners' tastes.
Besides changes in eating habits, rising ingredient costs are also a major issue. Ms. Kim said that vegetable prices have almost doubled in the past 10 years. "A 4.5kg box of spinach used to cost only 10,000 won, but now it's 20,000 won," she shared.
Nevertheless, Ms. Kim persevered in running her restaurant, offering hearty meals with a home-like flavor. "I know I'm trying too hard, but I still want to provide my customers with warm meals, making them feel like they're eating at home," she said.
Efforts to change and adapt
Unwilling to succumb to changing times, many baekbanjip restaurant owners have sought ways to adapt to attract customers. Ms. Han, in her 60s, owner of Hansikdang restaurant in Hwayang-dong, near Konkuk University Station, decided to improve the space with a more modern interior design and more luxurious dining sets.
"Changing the style has helped me attract younger customers, even foreign tourists, but after deducting expenses, I hardly make any profit. So instead of raising prices, I'm considering reducing the number of side dishes in the near future," Ms. Han said.
At her restaurant, a set meal with stir-fried pork and nine side dishes costs 12,000 won, a price she considers reasonable. However, despite changes in style, Ms. Han cannot avoid the competitive pressure from other food establishments.
"Nowadays, people prefer Western flavors or fusion cuisines."
Young people prefer fast food and a wider variety of options.
The changing eating habits of young people are one of the main reasons why baekbanjip restaurants are losing customers. Ha Yoo-jeong, 24, a university student in Seoul, said she and her friends often choose to eat Sichuan spicy hot pot (malatang) or fast food at the school cafeteria. “Between classes, we can easily stop by a malatang restaurant because it’s served very quickly. Baekbanjip meals are the kind we can eat at home, and the interiors of these restaurants are too old-fashioned for gathering with friends,” Ha shared.
"Baekbanjip-style meals are the kind we can eat at home, but the interiors of these restaurants are too old-fashioned for gathering with friends."
Yoon Hye-jeong, an office worker in Seoul in her 50s, also said she often eats at her company cafeteria, where a meal costs around 7,000 won. “Company cafeterias now offer a wide variety of food options at cheaper prices than restaurants outside, so I don’t have many reasons to eat out,” she said.
According to Professor Lee Eun-hee from Inha University, baekbanjip restaurants are unlikely to escape this declining trend. “Fewer and fewer people enjoy eating family meals out because they are not much different from meals at home. The current culinary trend is shifting towards more diverse and specialized options, such as Western-style pasta dishes,” Professor Lee observed.
In addition, cost pressures make it difficult for restaurant owners to raise prices. “Baekbanjip are considered affordable eateries, primarily serving working-class people. If prices increase, they will lose customers because diners still expect inexpensive meals,” Professor Lee added.
Despite efforts to adapt, the future of baekbanjip remains uncertain given the rapid rise of new culinary trends.
