Mezzico - Where art finds refuge in a small cafe.

28/05/2022

Walking straight into house number 25 Ham Long Street, past a bustling salad shop that's very "Hanoi-style," and then winding up the old, time-worn staircase, you'll find a spacious and tranquil space, subtly reminiscent of the old capital while also possessing a touch of modernity and familiarity.

Another summer has arrived in Hanoi, a season of vibrant red flame trees against a backdrop of warm, golden sunshine, of buzzing cicadas, and of an overflowing, energetic atmosphere that makes people yearn for trips, fun times with family and friends. Summer can be so dazzling and boisterous, but it can also peacefully drift by in charming, tranquil, and cool little places. I found such a summer at Mezzico Cafe – a haven in a humble old villa on the ancient Ham Long street.

A space filled with romance.

Located in the heart of the capital, but unlike the bustling shops with wide storefronts and long lines of people coming and going, Mezzico chooses to hide away on the second floor of an old villa, easily overlooked if one isn't paying close attention. Walking straight into house number 25, past a crowded, very "Hanoi" salad shop, and then up the old, time-worn staircase, one encounters a spacious and tranquil space, subtly reminiscent of the old capital while also possessing a touch of modernity and familiarity.

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Those visiting Mezzico for the first time will undoubtedly be amazed by the artistic atmosphere emanating from every corner. The most striking feature is the walls adorned with paintings by artist Cong Quoc Ha – one of the most renowned names in Vietnamese lacquer painting. Next to it, a piano sits neatly in the main room, a small corner is filled with antique collectibles, and a sun-drenched balcony is dotted with green plants – all creating a strange charm that captivates anyone who happens to pass by.

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Not crowded or noisy, Mezzico is the ideal stop if you're looking for a peaceful place to relax, chat, or work. With its warm atmosphere and the gentle, attentive service of the owner and staff, everyone will likely feel comfortable enough to leisurely let their thoughts wander.

A cafe of different cultures

Perhaps, if you weren't familiar with Mezzico before, you'd be surprised to hear that this small cafe originally started in a very different direction. With a love for Mexican culture, Ms. Phuong – the owner of Mezzico – wanted to create a space that recreated the vibrant colors and free, open spirit of this North American country. The cafe's muse at the time was the artist Frida Kahlo – a woman with a strong personality and bold, feminist-themed works ahead of her time. From there, Mezzico's initial goal was to inspire young people to live authentically. Therefore, the cafe's space is filled with bright, striking colors, with a touch of rebellious flair.

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According to Ms. Phuong, bringing the artworks of painter Cong Quoc Ha into this somewhat modern-styled cafe can be summed up in one word: "destiny."

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"Initially, I was a little hesitant about this combination because Mexican and Hanoi styles are very different; one is a flowing energy with vibrant colors, while the other is more subdued and gentle. However, after a few discussions with the artist, I began to see common ground. The use of basic colors that are not at all boring, the artist's open-minded and modern mindset, and my own love for Hanoi's ancient culture all fit together perfectly to lead to this change," Ms. Phuong shared.

Without rushing, she poured her heart and soul into gradually transforming each space, gently infusing Mezzico with a Vietnamese touch without losing the cafe's unique character. Each painting was carefully selected, and every composition, placement, and lighting was meticulously calculated to fully convey the intended spirit. This seemingly incongruous combination ultimately breathed a very unique soul into the small cafe, unlike anywhere else.

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Mezzico's multiculturalism is further demonstrated by the owner's exceptionally unique collection of antique decorative items. From carpets, lamps, candlesticks, and tableware, she has collected them from various places, including Bat Trang, Lao Cai, as well as China and India. It doesn't matter where they come from; as long as they suit the space and convey the right emotional tone the cafe aims for, they are all perfect pieces that create this artistic cafe. Therefore, visitors can not only immerse themselves in emotionally evocative artwork but also freely explore a treasure trove of unique antiques.

A familiar spot in the old villa.

Mezzico's appeal also stems from the story of the old villa at 25 Ham Long Street. According to Ms. Phuong, this house was once the residence of the French Ambassador, then renovated to become a residence for Hanoi residents. This is also where the artist Cong Quoc Ha lived before moving to Sweden. With a longing for his homeland, he was deeply committed to preserving and recreating the old atmosphere of a bygone era. Paintings of various sizes, screen-sized pieces, and many display and decorative items were all sent back by the artist from his distant country.

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Beyond the interior details of the cafe, the surroundings of the villa also offer familiar scenes of Hanoi's Old Quarter. Right in front of the house is a sidewalk salad stall with a bustling, chaotic atmosphere that's hard to find in any other city. Conversely, Mezzico's space on the second floor is a completely different world, subtly evoking the peaceful, gentle, and elegant image of old Hanoi. These two contrasting aspects coexist and blend to create a miniature version of the capital's culture.

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Perhaps it's precisely because of the cafe's intimate and familiar atmosphere that its customers feel so comfortable. Mezzico has many regulars who come to relax, contemplate the paintings, chat by the counter, and become close friends as if they've known each other for a long time. Ms. Phuong shared that this is precisely the target customer group the cafe aims for. Gradually, it has become a peaceful, friendly, and warm sanctuary, rather than simply a cafe with buyers and sellers.

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Besides its distinctly Hanoi-inspired elements, the restaurant's menu also has an international feel. In addition to familiar drinks like coffee and tea, it serves cocktails, tequila, and Mexican food such as tacos and tortillas. Most notably, the food and drinks served here are all carefully researched and tested by the owner herself, using only the freshest and cleanest ingredients. The jams are made from fresh, seasonal fruits instead of commercially produced canned jams, and the Mexican dishes are adapted to suit Vietnamese tastes. This meticulous attention to detail is what makes Mezzico stand out among thousands of eateries in the capital. Thanks to this, the cultural essence here isn't just limited to a beautiful space; it's also resonated through many layers of profound meaning.

Mezzico tea & coffee

About the artist Cong Quoc Ha

Artist Cong Quoc Ha, born in 1955 in Hanoi, is best known for his lacquer paintings. His paintings feature both traditional and modern themes, primarily revolving around Hanoi streets, the beauty of women, flowers, and more. Many of his works have been exhibited worldwide. Currently, the artist lives and works in Sweden, while continuing his passion for art and holding exhibitions there.

Ha Thu - Photos: Linh Phan, Phuong Thao
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