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| 2007500 hectares of terraced rice fields in the three communes of La Pán Tẩn, Chế Cu Nha, and Dế Xu Phình (Mù Căng Chải) have been classified as a national scenic site by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism. September 14th to 20th, 2012In Yen Bai, a week of culture, sports, and tourism will take place, featuring a harvest festival, a photo exhibition of terraced rice fields, a highland market with local cuisine, Hmong flute dancing, and traditional courtship songs. Specialty:Suoi Giang tea, sticky rice and free-range chicken from Tu Le, mountain frogs from Mu Cang Chai, sour bamboo shoots, boiled pork, pork grilled in dong leaves, smoked buffalo meat, and apple wine. |
Text and photos:Lam Linh
September isn't too cold yet, but it's enough to wear scarves, warm jackets, and gloves when you want to embark on a journey to admire the natural and human masterpieces of the Northwest highlands at the most enchanting time of year. At this time, the weather is pleasantly cool and breezy, creating ideal conditions for a long trip.
The remote Mu Cang Chai - Yen Bai
The only way to Mu Cang Chai is via National Highway 32. From Hanoi, cross the Khe Pass to Yen Bai province, then follow this road through Nghia Lo straight to Mu Cang Chai. Even from Van Chan, the roadsides are lined with breathtakingly beautiful rice paddies. By the time you reach Tu Le, the rice paddies of the Thai ethnic villages are fragrant with the scent of ripening rice. If you arrive during harvest season, you can enjoy bowls of freshly cooked rice. If you arrive a little earlier, try the fragrant sticky rice flakes made from the famous Tu Le glutinous rice. In the late afternoon, when the young Thai men and women return home after a busy day working in the fields, the hot springs amidst the rice paddies become the most crowded. The Thai people bathe in the springs, enjoying the natural beauty of the landscape.
From Tú Lệ to Mù Căng Chải, you have to cross the 20km Khau Pạ pass. The pass isn't as dangerous today, but you should still be careful. Midway up the pass, the stunning scenery of rice paddies changing color in the valley below is something everyone wants to admire. You'll find a beautiful spot to stop halfway up the pass, letting your mind wander amidst the valley's vibrant green and yellow hues, while enjoying a warm, steaming cup of coffee.
Along the road through La Pán Tẩn and Chế Cu Nha, two communes with some of the most beautiful rice paddies in all of Mù Căng Chải, young boys and girls herd buffalo along the highway, playing by the fences. These five hundred hectares of rice paddies are a recognized heritage of the Hmong people. The highlanders of Yên Bái cultivate rice on the high mountain slopes. The Thái people establish villages in the lowlands, growing upland rice in the Tú Lệ valley. But the Hmong, skilled at climbing mountains, have transformed these treacherous mountain slopes into stunning terraced rice paddies. The skillful and diligent hands of the Dao, Hmong, Hà Nhì, Giáy, Tày, Xa Phó, Nùng, and Pa Dí people, generation after generation, have been creating these masterpieces.
| September and October are the best months of the year to visit the famous terraced rice fields of Northwest Vietnam. This is also the time when European tourists and young travel enthusiasts eagerly rent motorbikes to admire the Northwest. Foreign visitors can find Minsk and dirt bikes for rent with a guide at motorbike rental shops in Hanoi's Old Quarter. |
Floating amidst a sea of clouds in Y Tý – Lào Cai
The road to Y Tý is divided into three. One road starts from the foot of the Ô Quy Hồ pass and slopes upwards. Another road runs through Bát Xát – Bản Vược via Mường Hum, and the third road starts from A Mú Sung, a point close to Lũng Pô – where the Red River flows in.
The road winds through the villages, traversing high mountains and deep forests, clinging closely to sheer cliffs without guardrails. Forest upon forest. Scattered here and there are a few small villages along the rugged paths.
Fluffy white clouds under a clear blue sky enveloped the entire valley. Sunlight reflected off shimmering rainbows. Y Tý is nestled deep in the mountains, surrounded on all sides by high peaks, and shrouded in mist year-round. At an altitude of 2,000 meters, nestled against the Nhiu Co San mountain range, whose peak reaches 2,660 meters, it is rare to see full sunlight throughout the day. Therefore, many people call Y Tý "the land of mist."
The early morning market was bustling with people. People of all ethnic groups—Dao, Ha Nhi, Mong, Giay—were present, dressed in their colorful traditional costumes. Some brought their children, others rode horses, and some walked with their wives to the market amidst the mountains and forests of Northwest Vietnam. It felt as if people were riding on clouds to the market, the sunlight further enhancing the magical beauty of the cloud-covered valley. The goods were simple: a few eggs, some skirts, homemade rice wine… The women, dressed in colorful skirts and vibrant headscarves, made the entire market resemble a mobile flower garden. After the market closed and the crowds thinned out, the ethnic girls lingered, resting on rocks along the mountainside, chatting, sunbathing, admiring the clouds, and doing their embroidery.
Beyond Den Sang, the stunning terraced rice fields have reached their golden ripeness. On the fields, women in red and pink skirts bob up and down as they diligently harvest. From Muong Hum to Y Ty, everywhere is bathed in golden rice, with clouds and sunlight like sweet honey spreading across every path.
Hoang Su Phi – A vast expanse of golden fields
| The road to Y Tý is quite bad with many slippery sections, so you should prepare gloves and knee pads to avoid getting cold and to ensure your hands and knees are not scratched in case of danger. Temperatures in mountainous areas vary significantly between day and night, so bring plenty of scarves, wool hats, gloves, warm jackets, sleeping bags, and light blankets. In Y Tý, there's only one guesthouse, run by Ms. Hầu Thu Mỷ, with very few rooms. You should avoid going out at night when visiting this area. Report to the village chief when arriving at new places and bring all necessary personal documents. From Y Tý, you can travel down to the communes of Lao Chải 1 and Lao Chải 2, home to some of the most beautiful rammed-earth houses in Lao Cai, and even into Hồng Ngài, the most remote commune in this region. |
Hoang Su Phi, nestled at the foot of the majestic Tay Con Linh peak, attracts a large number of young people every autumn. Compared to the road to Mu Cang Chai, reaching Hoang Su Phi is more arduous and challenging due to the longer distance.
From Y Tý – Lào Cai, to reach Hoàng Su Phì, we had to overcome a challenging stretch of road, going down to Lào Cai, then to Bắc Hà, and from there, a 40km journey to Xín Mần, one of the most difficult and arduous stretches of road to Hoàng Su Phì. The beautiful, rain-free weather was a great stroke of luck for the drivers. Hoàng Su Phì welcomed the tireless travelers with stunning golden rice paddies stretching from the foot to the summit of the mountains.
Visiting Hoang Su Phi, you will be able to fully enjoy the majestic natural scenery, relax comfortably in the fresh air amidst the towering mountains and the joyful sound of babbling streams. Hoang Su Phi has four cultural and tourist villages: Nam Hong, Giang Thuong, Phin Ho, and Lang Giang.
Hoang Su Phi is an attractive destination for community tourism tours, especially the Pan Hour eco-tourism area along the Thong Nguyen stream. Amidst the peaceful and romantic scenery, the youthful innocence of the Dao girls will leave visitors with a wonderful first impression. Furthermore, visitors have the opportunity to learn about the cultural life of the Dao people – who make up 80% of the population here.
| Rice cultivation in Hoang Su Phi takes place once a year. May is the water-filling season, and September is the harvest season; both times are stunning, attracting many photographers to capture beautiful images. From Hanoi, follow National Highway 2 north for about 320 km. Upon reaching Viet Quang, there is a turnoff to Hoang Su Phi; turn onto the single-lane road leading to this mountainous border district. The road winds along the mountains and has very little traffic. From here, you can conquer Tay Con Linh 1 and Tay Con Linh 2 peaks, famous destinations that are popular with young people. The rice plants in Hoang Su Phi have longer stems compared to Mu Cang Chai; the rice paddies are also located at higher elevations. Terraced rice fields are found in most communes and towns in the district, but are mostly concentrated in Ban Luoc, Ban Phung, Thong Nguyen, Ho Thau, Nam Ty, and San Sa Ho, with a total area of nearly 765 hectares. |
Additional information:
Preparing for a backpacking trip
The weather in this mountainous region is changing seasons, so remember to bring a thick jacket and a warm scarf.
When riding a motorbike, pay attention to your speed and other traffic. Don't speed too much and avoid riding too close to other vehicles. Don't ride late at night or in fog. Remember to carry all your valid documents. It's a good idea to have a repair kit with spare inner tubes and tires.
Your first-aid kit should include: headache medicine, cold and fever medicine, diarrhea medicine, allergy medicine, antibiotics, gas relief medicine, effervescent vitamin C tablets, B vitamins, bandages, antiseptic, medicated balm, liniment, Salonpas patches, etc. For larger groups, you should buy more and divide it among 2-3 people to carry.
Members of the group must have a firm grasp of the itinerary and geographical map, know the places they will visit, and have the names and phone numbers of all their group members.
Pack essential personal items such as clothing, warm jackets, gloves, helmets, pillowcases, raincoats, rain boots, personal belongings bags, personal medical supplies (in addition to what the group has prepared), sleeping bags, etc.
When packing your backpack, use plastic bags to neatly arrange items before packing your belongings to prevent them from getting wet, especially in the rain.
Other items include: ropes, straps for securing items, and some small items like knives and scissors…
How to secure items on a vehicle: neat, convenient, and won't get in the way while traveling.
A group of motorbike riders should ideally be limited to a minimum of 5 bikes and 10 people. This makes it easier to socialize and chat, easier to control while on the road, and also easier to contact people about food and accommodation when traveling to distant locations.
Here are some places to rent motorbikes in Hanoi:
- Hoang Motor: 27 Alley 62 Tran Quy Cap, Van Mieu, Dong Da - Tel: (04) 66 50 50 19 - HP: 092 829 0000 / 0922 586 122 / 0904 23 23 41
- Nguyen Thanh Tung: 1017 Hong Ha Street, Hoan Kiem District – Phone: 0913 532 229
- Mr. Trung: 51 Doi Can Street – HP: 091.241.0562
- Vietnam Heart Travel: 119 Au Co Street, Tay Ho District – HP: 091 33 44 069 (Mr. Thiep)
- Along with car rental addresses in the Old Quarter such as Dinh Liet, Ta Hien, Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hang Buom…
