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Text and photos:Nguyen Chi Linh
From the end of March, the local winds begin to shift direction, moving from east to west. This is the hottest time of year, but Maldivians like to call it autumn, even though the period is very short (lasting until April or May). Rain is almost nonexistent, and the sky becomes a brilliant blue. This is the season for professional photographers to flock to the Maldives to take photos from the moon for promotional purposes in travel magazines.
Walking on coral rocks, a traditional Maldivian massage technique.
I visited Malé, the capital city – an ancient city and one of the smallest capitals in the world – to see a few sights. Along the coastal road at the end of Boduthakurufaanu Magu boulevard, the atmosphere is always bustling every afternoon with buyers and sellers as fishing boats dock after a day at sea. The gentle smiles of the people, their skin tanned by the sea breeze, are always strangely charming.
Before becoming a world-renowned resort paradise, the Maldives was an island nation consisting of 26 atolls encircling a territory of 1,192 smaller islands. Of these, only about 200 islands had local communities. It took the government 40 years of development to transform the Maldives into its current form, with 80 resorts spread across 200 islands. Winding along the coastal roads of Malé, many coral reefs remain as remnants of this nation's past, nestled in the southwestern Indian Ocean.
As evening falls, the Maldivians enjoy strolling gently across the precarious rocks of the coral reefs. At first, watching their footsteps, a thought crossed my mind: their feet must be enduring immense pain from the coral rocks, which are often veined and sometimes have sharp thorns. Why do they do this with such apparent ease, reflected in their faces?
Arzan, a local, burst out laughing when I asked that question. He explained, “It’s a traditional Maldivian massage technique. Stepping on coral rocks activates certain pressure points in the soles of your feet that connect to pressure points in your arms. Try it once when you visit the Maldives and try it every day; you’ll see your health improve, especially your feet.”
The term "acupressure" is not unfamiliar in medicine, as the Chinese, Indians, even Native Americans of the Americas, and ancient Egyptians have used this traditional medical method since ancient times. Paintings dating back to 2400 BC found in the tombs of Pharaohs in Luxor, Egypt, also provide evidence of this. The painting depicts a physician applying acupressure to treat a king. According to scientific studies, acupressure improves blood circulation and enhances several natural bodily functions. More importantly, acupressure stimulates the brain, helping people "release" the anxieties of life.
“Nature has bestowed upon the Maldives a vast natural treasure: coral reefs. Why not experience that when you come here?” Arzan’s provocative question, also a welcoming invitation, excited me to step down onto the coral reefs to try a free, traditional Maldivian foot massage.
My feet ached quite a bit as I walked on the rough, jagged rocks. Arzan chuckled, "I misunderstood the Maldivian foot massage method!" Walking on coral rocks isn't a massage; the correct method is to find rocks with rough, jagged surfaces and perform the massage motions there. According to Arzan, the first main pressure points are located on the soles of the feet, starting from the tip of the big toe and running diagonally to the left under the other toes (for the left foot, the opposite for the right). The second main pressure point is in the middle of the heel, and the last pressure points are scattered across the lower third of the foot from the toes (from the edge of one foot to the edge of the other). "Activate them using the veins of the coral rocks to find a feeling of comfort," Arzan encouraged me.
As he said, I started to feel an indescribable "strange" sensation when the pressure points on my feet were massaged. Arzan continued to explain: "In the Maldives, locals even use coral to build mosques. The meaning of coral foot massage, which helps people release the worries of life, is deeply ingrained in the subconscious of the locals. Therefore, some locals, before entering the main mosque, often rub their feet against coral pillars to offer their pure souls to Allah."
In the distance, on the horizon, the sun was a fiery red, as big as a deflated balloon. Sunset had fallen, and I was feeling a little "addicted" to trying out a free foot massage in the cool sea breeze.
"In the Maldives, locals even use coral to build mosques. The belief that coral foot massage helps people release the worries of life is deeply ingrained in the subconscious of the indigenous people."(Arzan, a local resident)
Night fishing at sea
The Kurumba Resort, where I'm staying, doesn't organize night fishing tours at sea. But thanks to the helpful receptionist, I was able to get a ticket for a night fishing trip (organized by the Olhuveli Resort for $20 per person).
That day, I was picked up at 6 pm on a boat (it looked more like a speedboat) with 8 international passengers. The greetings made the atmosphere on board warm and welcoming. However, I started feeling seasick again a short distance after the boat started moving, due to the large waves crashing against the sides. The crew handed each person a wristband to wear, with a motion sickness pill underneath that would be gradually absorbed through the skin into the body. It was a novel experience.
The large waves inadvertently created a surreal, dreamlike feeling about the scenery as I drifted on the sea. Looking back at the stern of the ship while the sun was still shining, the surrounding resorts looked like pristine white seashells lying idly in the blue ocean.
Mr. Naxyh, the tour leader, rattled off stories about the history of the archipelago and its traditional occupations. He wanted everyone to have a genuine experience tonight of the Maldivian people's "way of making a living" in ancient times: fishing from traditional boats (called fishing boats).DhoniHis witty and humorous storytelling helped me ward off seasickness.
As night falls, the twinkling lights of the resorts appear and disappear on the waves, sometimes creating an image like sudden bursts of fireworks shooting up into the air from the sea.
I was lowered onto the Dhoni, which was securely moored to the larger ship. Onboard, the crew had prepared a modern fishing rod and some bait for me. The oil lamp on the Dhoni flickered in the pitch-black night, adding to the mystery of the open sea. I was a little scared stepping down, fearing the big waves might capsize the boat. Naxyh smiled and pointed to the light blue buoy I was wearing: "That's the signal to find me!"
The cool autumn breeze blowing in from the sea was incredibly pleasant. I cast my line and sat waiting for the fish to bite. The twinkling stars in the night sky blended with the white light of the squid fishing lamps, creating an enchanting Milky Way at the horizon. The fish seemed to be playing games with me, refusing to bite but instead wagging their tails around the boat, creating a delightful clicking sound.
Everyone excitedly showed off their catches after returning to the ship. I only caught two: a small mackerel and a spotted herring. For me, the catch wasn't important; what mattered was experiencing the way the Maldivians made their living in the past. Although the group's catch wasn't much, a delicious BBQ seafood feast was prepared to welcome everyone, and the popping of champagne bottles amidst cheers created a lively and bustling atmosphere on board. Everyone sang along, though their high-pitched voices were always lost in the sound of the waves crashing against the vast ocean.
Before the trip, I always asked myself why the Maldives is always called by the beautiful name "paradise" for relaxation? And during my days in the Maldives, I got the answer, although my wallet was quite empty. Leaving the archipelago, I still regret not being treated like a true "VIP" there.
For me, the achievement wasn't important; what mattered was understanding how the Maldivians made a living in the past.
Additional information:
+ In Southeast Asia, only Singapore Airlines (via Singapore) and Malaysia Airlines (via Kuala Lumpur) operate flights from Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi to Malé, the capital of the Maldives. Singapore Airlines has two daily flights to Malé from Singapore, but flights from Ho Chi Minh City to Singapore require an overnight stay at the airport before arriving in Malé the following day. Passengers get to enjoy panoramic views of the Maldives from above. Meanwhile, Malaysia Airlines has three flights from Ho Chi Minh City to Kuala Lumpur, with overnight layovers in Kuala Lumpur, meaning passengers don't get the panoramic views, but the fares are cheaper.
Maldives grants visa-free entry to most citizens worldwide. Upon entry, you only need to present your return flight ticket and hotel booking confirmation.
Maldivians use a languageDhevehi– a mixture of 3 languagesHindi(India),Arabic(Arabic) andSinhala(Sri Lanka).
The indigenous currency of the Maldives isRufiyaa(1 USD = 15.38 MVR). Tourists don't need to exchange much money, as USD and Euro are widely accepted through various cards.
Tourists are not allowed to bring pork and pork products into the country, and are not allowed to bring shellfish or coral out of the country.
+ Resorts offer a variety of optional tours priced from 20 to 100 USD per tour.
