The distinctive Jeepneys of the Philippines

Text and photos: Tran Viet Anh

Jeepneys are the most popular mode of transportation in Philippine cities. It's said that if you've come to the Pearl of the Orient, you must experience a ride in one. If you only travel by taxi or spend your days on the fast-moving subway (at least in Manila), the enjoyment is far from reaching its peak.

Jeepneys resemble jeeps in shape, but have a roof to protect passengers from the scorching heat of this tropical land. The roof is very low, so people can only reach their seats while crouching; standing is out of the question. Unlike regular jeeps, the rear of the vehicle is extended to carry more people, seated in two rows of wooden seats arranged lengthwise. With that many seats, about 16 people can sit in the passenger compartment, and the driver's compartment can accommodate up to 3 more. Naturally, with two rows of people crammed into such a cramped space, it's hard not to sweat on hot summer days. Fortunately, the windows are not glass, allowing cool breezes to blow through, making everyone feel refreshed as the vehicle rolls along.

Most notably, the jeepneys in the Philippines are unique; no two are alike in color. They are operated by transportation companies, some large, some family-run. Therefore, people are free to paint and decorate them however they like. There are countless brightly colored vehicles, making tourists feel like they're in some South American carnival world. While the owners usually write the names of the stops on the outside of the vehicle, passengers can actually request to stop anywhere they want. Indeed, this is a delightful playground for artists to let their colorful imaginations run wild.

Being a passenger is a fun experience. You'll have to be prepared to bend down and step onto the vehicle from the back to get to the seat right next to the driver, as those ahead won't make room for you at the back. Alternatively, you could tap on the side of the vehicle to ask for space, or say "sebum," but don't bet on that! Sometimes the cabin is so crowded that people have to stand clinging to the outside or sit on the roof, reminiscent of the market buses in Vietnam. If the jeepney you're on has a conductor, he'll be a fun companion as you cling to the outside. In many places, the roof is piled high with goods, baskets, trays, or whatever the laborers carry.

Most jeepneys don't have a conductor, only a driver. So how do you pay the fare? It all depends on your honesty. Passengers further away ask passengers closer to pass the money to the driver, 8 pesos (approximately 4,000 VND) each time. If there's any change, the driver passes it to the passenger closer to the driver. This tradition has helped build the honesty and integrity of the Filipino people. To get off? Say "para" (if you're in Manila), or simply tap on the ceiling to signal the driver. If you're on the sidewalk and want to get on, just wave your hand, and the jeepney will stop at you like a taxi.

These cheerful vehicles are not without their drawbacks. Pedestrians are sure to cringe at the black smoke billowing from many of these decades-old jeepneys. Furthermore, their "casual" stops to drop off passengers exacerbate the already agonizing traffic jams in Philippine cities. With congested roads and delays, some drivers even skip stops altogether to reach their destination faster!

In Thailand, there are tuk-tuks, and in the Philippines, there are jeepneys. These traditional small passenger vehicles have become an indelible mark on the minds of the people of this beautiful island nation. Reluctant to walk? There's a jeepney. On a tight budget? There's still a jeepney. To truly immerse yourself in the Filipino culture, tourists must sit quietly on the cramped benches of a jeepney.

The Thanh