Journey "Beyond the Horizon" (Part 2): Drifting with the "Lost Horizon" of Shangri-la, lingering in the "Kingdom of Western Liang Women"

20/01/2022

Shangri-la, known as the "Lost Horizon," is said to transport visitors to another world. Meanwhile, the captivating highlight of the "Western Liang Women's Kingdom" lies not only in the enchanting, fairy-tale-like scenery of Lake Lugu, but also in the experiences with the Mosuo matriarchal tribe, where women are the "ruler."

SHANGRI-LA: MYSTERIOUS AND SACRED

The name Shangri-la became famous despite being a fictional location described in the 1933 novel "Lost Horizon" by British writer James Hilton. This mythical place became a reality after Zhongdian County – the capital of Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Yunnan Province – was renamed Shangri-la in 2001, transforming it into a particularly popular tourist destination.

“Vật vờ” chờ giờ lên máy bay tới “Chân trời đã mất” Shangri-la.

"Drowsily" waiting for the flight to Shangri-la, the "Lost Horizon."

Located at an altitude of 3,160 meters, Shangri-la has thinner air, making it easy for visitors to experience altitude sickness. However, in return, a visit to Shangri-la offers a slow-paced lifestyle in a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere, imbued with a unique sense of mystery and sacredness.

Shangri-la “bồng bềnh” trong mây hiện lên ấn tượng dưới cánh máy bay.

Shangri-la, "floating" in the clouds, appears impressively below the airplane's wings.

After a restless night's sleep while waiting for our flight, we were astonished to be greeted by a vast blue sky and a landscape shimmering in the golden light of dawn as we stepped out of Diqing Airport at 7 a.m., amidst the freezing temperatures of -2 degrees Celsius.

We had booked a hostel right at the entrance to Dukezong Old Town, having read reviews on Trip.com praising the owner as "handsome and a good cook." Unfortunately, the owner was away, and only his neighbor came to open the door. Finding our booked room, though spacious, was too cold despite the heater, we called the owner and were immediately moved to a smaller room, but one with a heated mattress and a warm bathroom and toilet.

Cảm nhận đầu tiên của chúng tôi là Shangri-la rất khác biệt dù cũng thuộc tỉnh Vân Nam, trước hết là cảm giác gần với bầu trời hơn và…biết thế nào là say độ cao.

Our first impression was that Shangri-la was very different, even though it's also in Yunnan province. First of all, we felt closer to the sky and… experienced what altitude sickness feels like.

The more than 1,000-year-old Dukezong Old Town has recovered from a major fire in 2014. While it retains the same cobblestone streets and traditional roofs, Shangri-la is much more spacious and open than Lijiang. The population density is only 11 people per square kilometer.2This is also a major difference, making Dukezong Old Town appear more like a gentle "mountain beauty" compared to the vibrant "city girl" of Lijiang.

Hoa và nắng Thu khoe sắc ngay trên lối vào hostel gần phố cổ Dukezong của Shangri-la.

Flowers and autumn sunshine bloom right at the entrance to the hostel near Dukezong Old Town in Shangri-la.

After strolling around Dukezong Old Town and enjoying a delicious hot pot meal to recharge, we returned to the hostel to rest and allow our bodies to gradually adjust to the altitude. In the afternoon, the whole group went out to catch a taxi to Shongzhanlin Monastery to experience a unique sunset view.

That's when we completely relax, letting our minds immerse themselves in a surreal, sacred, and mysterious space, accompanied by the murmuring chanting of "Om Mani Padme Hum" by the Lamas (most of whom are tall, handsome, and charming).

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Đêm lung linh ánh đèn trên phố cổ Dukezong ở nơi “Chân trời đã mất” Shangri-la.

The night is illuminated by twinkling lights on Dukezong Old Street in Shangri-la, the "Lost Horizon."

On the way back, bathed in the characteristic scorching sun of the highlands, under a clear, cloudless blue sky and surrounded by vibrant flowers and plants, we were all captivated by the enchanting autumn scenery.

That evening, despite the biting cold, we strolled through the ancient Dukezong, climbed the hilltop to admire the giant, brightly lit prayer wheel, and wandered around the central square, experiencing the slow but still peaceful pace of life in the highlands.

Tu viện Shongzhanlin là nơi rất đặc biệt để trải nghiệm ngắm hoàng hôn linh thiêng, huyền bí.

Shongzhanlin Monastery is a very special place to experience a sacred and mystical sunset.

Feeling a bit hungry, we bought some baked potatoes, wrapped them in our jackets to keep both the potatoes and ourselves warm, and walked a short distance back to the hostel, all breathless from the dry, cold, and thick air so characteristic of Shangri-la.

Nhóm du khách Việt check-in Công viên Quốc gia Potatso cách trung tâm Shangri-la 20km.

A group of Vietnamese tourists checked in at Potatso National Park, located 20 km from the center of Shangri-la.

The next day we hired a taxi to Potatso National Park (also known as Pudacuo), which covers 1,300 square kilometers.2Located 20 km from the center of Shangri-la, although we only managed to visit one of the three currently operating tourist attractions, Shudu Lake (the other two were closed), it was enough to satisfy the whole group with the autumn scenery, with the sky and water both a vibrant blue, the leaves a brilliant golden yellow, and everywhere bathed in sunshine and gentle breezes...

THE GLORIOUS LUGU IN THE "KINGDOM OF WESTERN WOMEN"

Lugu Lake is located in the border area between Yunnan and Sichuan provinces. Situated at an altitude of 2,685 meters – the highest point in Yunnan province – Lugu Lake is known as the "Pearl of the Plateau". Formed from a geological fault, Lugu Lake boasts diverse and unique beauty, from the surrounding mountains to its 5 islands, 4 peninsulas, 14 bays, and 17 beaches nestled within the lake.

Góc 9 khúc cua ấn tượng trên đường đi tới hồ Lugu.

Nine impressive hairpin bends on the road to Lake Lugu.

Another notable highlight is the presence of the Mosou tribe along Lake Lugu. With a current population of approximately 40,000, the Mosou are the only remaining matriarchal tribe in China, giving the area the famous name, as depicted in the historical drama "The Kingdom of Women of the Western Liang".

Sắc màu mùa Thu ven hồ Lugu đẹp như tranh vẽ.

The autumn colors along Lake Lugu are as beautiful as a painting.

Before the trip, I contacted a car rental service via WeChat to go to Lugu Lake for 450 yuan/day (approximately 1.6 million VND, 7-seater). To be sure, I always request a photo of the car beforehand. The driver was quite young and professional; he enthusiastically acted as a tour guide for our group of Vietnamese tourists.

Cảnh quan “cỏ cháy” ven tuyến trekking.

The landscape features "burnt grass" along the trekking route.

The road from Lijiang to Lugu Lake is beautiful, and upon reaching Lugu Lake, we were even more captivated by the magnificent autumn scenery with its unexpected and magical transformations. Ignoring the crowded tourist stops, our driver took us further inland to charming little villages, choosing beautiful and secluded spots for us to take stunning photos.

Một trong những làng nhỏ xinh xắn ven hồ Lugu.

One of the charming little villages on the shores of Lake Lugu.

Around midday, we went to look at hotel rooms and were very pleased because there were quite a few and the prices were also cheap, only about 100 yuan per room (360,000 VND). There were many shops and restaurants around, so it was convenient for both eating and sightseeing. In the afternoon, we rushed back to the lake to take more photos.

Cảnh sắc quanh hồ Lugu một phần thuộc Vân Nam, một phần thuộc Tứ Xuyên nên rất đa dạng, mỗi nơi đều cuốn hút bởi những nét đặc trưng riêng khác hẳn nhau, chụp từ góc độ nào cũng đẹp.

The scenery around Lake Lugu is diverse, partly belonging to Yunnan and partly to Sichuan, with each area captivating with its own unique characteristics; it's beautiful from any angle..

That evening, we joined the stream of tourists entering the village to watch the Mosou tribe's performance. It was a little disappointing not to see handsome young men and beautiful young women performing like in Shangri-la; instead, we only saw middle-aged singers and dancers. Perhaps the younger generation here has either moved to the city or gone away to work, leaving their relatives at home to handle all aspects of the tourism service.

Trải nghiệm tour du ngoạn bằng thuyền quanh hồ Lugu, vừa ngắm cảnh vừa tận hưởng không khí trong lành.

Experience a boat tour around Lake Lugu, enjoying the scenery and fresh air.

Before leaving Lugu, we loaded our luggage onto the bus and immediately completed our itinerary, which included: a boat tour around Lake Lugu, enjoying the scenery and fresh air; a delicious and affordable lunch of local Lugu fish; and on the way back, a stop for passengers to buy small, crisp, and sweet honey apples, known for their characteristic clear honey-like streaks inside, priced at only 7-8 yuan/kg (approximately 30,000 VND).

Linh Giang
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