VI
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A corner of old Da Lat that still remains.
Located at 167 Xô Viết Nghệ Tĩnh Street, Da Lat, Pho Uyen stands out with its hand-painted sign in the style of the 1990s. Few know that the sign wasn't printed by a printing shop or advertising agency, but was painted by the owner's husband, Ms. Thuc, when the restaurant first opened. And no one expected that this seemingly simple detail would become one of the unique features that attracts many tourists, especially young people. Amidst an increasingly modern Da Lat, this seemingly "old-fashioned" detail evokes the humble and tranquil beauty of the city of a thousand flowers from years past.
Pho Uyen restaurant evokes the feeling of old Da Lat.
Upon entering the restaurant, customers easily feel the warmth of the gentle voice of a native Da Lat resident and the kind smile of the owner. Ms. Thuc, now 74 years old, was formerly a primary school teacher. After retiring from teaching, to supplement her income, she started selling pho in 1994. To date, the restaurant has been a part of this area for 31 years. The restaurant is named after her daughter, Hai Uyen, a simple and endearing name. And since then, the name "Pho Uyen" has become a familiar identifier for many generations of local diners.
The restaurant is housed in a wooden building constructed by Ms. Thuc's parents over 60 years ago. Although only about 30 square meters, the neat and clean layout creates a familiar feeling, like stepping into her grandmother's small kitchen. The walls are devoid of elaborate decorations or glittering lights; the only artwork displayed is a painting given to her by her husband when she first started selling pho.
“He was a foreign language teacher but had a passion for painting. He painted this scene of Da Lat as a gift for me. Back then, Da Lat was still quiet, with lush pine forests, not as bustling with tourists as it is now. He painted the scene to preserve the atmosphere and scenery before Da Lat developed and changed, becoming more modern,” she recounted. More than three decades have passed, and she still hangs the painting in a corner of her wall, regularly cleaning it, as if preserving a unique and irreplaceable piece of her memory.
This landscape painting of Da Lat was a gift from Ms. Thuc's husband, painted when she opened her shop.
A bowl of pho is as warm as the heart.
Right by the entrance, a pot of broth is always simmering, steaming from early morning. The aroma of the broth permeates the entire house, filling the air and even the mood of visitors. The simple counter features a basket of rice noodles, ceramic bowls containing pre-sliced beef, a bowl of scallions, and a basket of fresh vegetables. The space isn't flashy, but it's clean and friendly enough to put one at ease.
Ms. Thuc's stall is neatly arranged and kept clean.
Since then, Ms. Thuc has consistently done every step herself. This woman, over 70 years old, still nimbly slices meat, blanches noodles, and ladles broth into bowls, her hands working non-stop while her mouth remains smiling and chatting with customers in her gentle Da Lat accent. There is no hurriedness in her demeanor from the modern era, only the perseverance and attentiveness that have become an integral part of the restaurant.
Previously, she sold both beef pho and pork knuckle noodle soup. However, due to a shortage of staff, she is now focusing on beef pho. She learned the pho recipe from various sources: relatives, cookbooks, and the internet. She then adjusted it to suit the taste of people in Da Lat, as if she were cooking for her own family.
Day after day, she consistently stands at the counter making pho, greeting customers with a gentle smile and thanking them when they leave.
The broth is the soul of a bowl of pho, and here, it's meticulously prepared, starting with simmering the bones for nearly 21 hours. She begins simmering the beef leg bones at 8 a.m. the day before, cooking them thoroughly on an electric stove, then continues simmering them over a charcoal fire until 4:30 a.m. the next day. This method extracts the natural sweetness from the bones, creating a rich and flavorful broth that suits the taste of most local diners, unlike the clear, light broth found in Northern Vietnam.
The bowl of pho here isn't large, fitting perfectly in a familiar earthenware bowl, with a rich, light brown broth. When served, the broth still ripples with steam, giving off a delicate aroma. The noodles are thin, soft but not mushy, and are served with just the right amount of broth, allowing them to soak up the soup without being submerged. Thinly sliced, tender beef, cooked to a medium-rare doneness, is mixed with slices of slightly chewy brisket and tendon. Thinly sliced scallions and onions are sprinkled evenly on top, served with condiments like lime, chili, and soy sauce. This simple bowl of pho is rich and complete, just like the way people remember old Da Lat—unadorned yet soothing to the soul.
Spices and raw vegetables to serve with it.
A bowl of pho here costs 50,000 VND.
A place that makes people want to return.
Pho Uyen is open every day from 7 am to 4 pm. The busiest time is in the morning, when office workers, civil servants, and teachers stop by to start their day with a warm bowl of pho. Recently, thanks to the spread of social media, the restaurant has started attracting many young tourists. Many young people admit that what draws them in is the old-fashioned sign, the wooden house, and the peaceful atmosphere.
Visitors are drawn to the cafe by its striking sign, and return for the owner's warm and gentle demeanor and the nostalgic atmosphere.
Amidst the ever-changing landscape of Da Lat, Pho Uyen seems to retain its unhurried, intimate atmosphere. Without flashy advertising or gimmicks, the restaurant exists as a slice of old Da Lat, a place where you can sit quietly, listen to the sound of broth being ladled, hear the owner's conversation, and admire the painting of old Da Lat hanging on the wall.
For many, they come here not only for the delicious pho but also for the feeling of returning to something simple, familiar, a little warmth in the heart of this mountain town.
