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Arriving in Salzburg at three in the morning on a night bus from Venice, Italy, in biting cold, I took a GrabShare taxi with four other people to Salzburg Hbf station. I had to go to AO Hostel, where I had booked for the next day, and check in to rest a bit before catching the early bus to Hallstatt, a popular tourist destination in the Salzkammergut region.
Start
After a good night's sleep, I woke up still tired from the late winter chill in Austria. Leaving the warm sunshine of Venice behind, I felt a temperature shock upon arriving in Salzburg, and the feeling of snuggling under a blanket was wonderful. But thinking Hallstatt was calling, my body instinctively went to the bus station, just two intersections away. A long line had already formed waiting for bus 150 to Bad Ischl.
Standing on a bus packed with Korean tourists on holiday in Austria, I forgot the fatigue in my legs from standing for so long because my heart was fluttering as I gazed out the window. The Alps, with clouds seemingly falling from their peaks, the lush green meadows jutting out over the blue of Lake Hallstatter See, and the old houses created a breathtaking natural landscape.
In the distance, small villages nestled against the mountains on the other side of the lake. Each village featured a tall, central Catholic architectural structure. The deep blue of the enormous lake in eastern Austria reflected the stunning skies and Alps. If I could choose a place to escape the hustle and bustle of the world, I would probably choose a place like this, to be immersed in nature.
I didn't know how beautiful and spectacular Hallstatt would be, but for me, the bus ride to Hallstatt was beautiful enough, exceeding my expectations of an Austrian village.
At Bad Ischl station, I bought a grilled mozzarella cheese sandwich with bacon and ordered a hot chocolate for breakfast. After waiting 20 minutes, the bus to Hallstatt arrived. I boarded bus 542, which was now less crowded as a large group of tourists had switched to the train to Hallstatt. I sat in the front row to take in the amazing scenery along the way to Hallstatt.
The road was slightly winding but without a single pothole, traversing the slopes of the Alps. The terrain changed from plains to mountain slopes, then into tunnels, and finally into forests at a dizzying speed. The golden sunlight of late winter seemed to kiss the treetops, giving me a carefree feeling and making me smile. Perhaps some kind of natural magic had soothed the soul of this traveler after more than 10 days of wandering through France, Switzerland, Italy, and now Austria.
Suddenly, a voice from the back seat asked where I was going. I turned around and replied that I was going to Hallstatt. They said they were going to Dachstein mountain and the Ice Cave.
Snow-capped mountains, ice cavesButThose keywords piqued the curiosity of someone like me, born and raised in a tropical country. I quickly went to meet the driver and asked him to drop me off at Ice Cave. The driver nodded and reassured me, saying he would call everyone. It seemed to be a famous spot that I had unknowingly overlooked.
After a half-hour bus ride, we transferred to a Post Bus and finally arrived in Hallstatt. Half the tourists had already disembarked to go to Hallstatt, which appeared as beautiful as I had imagined: an ancient village nestled beside a wide lake, against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains. But I remained on the Post Bus, leaving Hallstatt Lahn station for Dachstein. I felt excited that this place wasn't on our original itinerary, and I had no prior knowledge of the Dachstein mountain range.
Upon reaching the foot of the mountain, I bought cable car tickets with my two new friends. Celine and Anna chose the 22 Euro ticket to station 1 because they didn't have time to go to station 2. There was still a lot of snow, so station 3 was temporarily inaccessible. The ticket seller explained that station 3 was only accessible in the summer when the snow had melted. Stations 1 to 3 of the cable car are snowy year-round. I bought a 40 Euro ticket to go to both stations. After saying goodbye to Celine and Anna at station 1, I went to station 2 first, following the guide's advice to go to the highest point and then come back down.
Conquerstation 2 ofsnow-capped mountainsDachstein
Watching the cable car glide over the bare pine trees, with thick snow still clinging to the mountain slopes, everything around me felt unreal. In the countries I'd visited before, flowers had bloomed and the sun was shining brightly, but here it was so different. It felt like I'd experienced two distinct seasons in Europe in a single journey. I looked up at the snow-capped mountain peak ahead and knew that was where I was going.
It was strange that the first time I stepped onto the thick, soft snow of the Dachstein mountain range, I was only wearing sneakers and two simple layers of clothing in -4°C weather. The breathtaking scenery that unfolded before my eyes made me forget about the cold. The sun was shining brightly, so the low temperature didn't matter anymore. Stumbling across the snow, I almost fell several times because my shoes weren't suitable for snowy conditions. I couldn't hide my smile, and my hands busily played with the cool snow. It felt like I'd wandered into a fairy tale. I quickly followed the signs to the attractions at Station 2.
The first destination is5fingersThis place is shaped like a five-fingered hand. Each finger points straight out into the mountain abyss. The glass and iron structure allows me to look down and see the deep snow-covered gorge below. For someone like me who is afraid of heights, that experience was unforgettable. But forget about it, the fear is nothing when you can gaze out from here.5fingersThe breathtaking Salzkammergut landscape unfolds before you, with its valleys, lakes, snow-capped mountains, and villages below. The villages resemble toy models, instantly tempting you to reach out and pick them up.
Even high up on this towering mountain, I could still see a chapel with a name.DachsteinkapelleIt looks quite unusual situated in the middle of a snowfield. Located at an altitude of 2,206 meters above sea level, it is the highest place of worship in the Northern Alps.
There was only one restaurant at Station 2. I didn't miss the chance to sit down at Dachstein Krippenstein for a delicious meal and didn't forget to FaceTime my mother to share the magical moment of being bathed in sunshine and snow at the same time. Sipping a glass of delicious Hallstatt beer amidst the Austrian snow was an unforgettable experience.
Station 1 and the mysterious ice cave
At Station 1, there's an archaeological museum with information about the excavation of ice-era mammoth fossils. But the best thing about Station 1 is the Ice Cave.
This over 300-year-old ice cave is unique in that the ice melts in winter and grows back in spring and summer. Therefore, the best time to explore is from April to August each year to admire the beautiful ice formations inside. You can't freely enter the Ice Cave as the nearly 1km of stairs inside are quite dangerous. You have to wait hourly for a guided group tour.
The ice formations inside the cave are astonishing to visitors. I could see frozen waterfalls that had been there for centuries, ice towers formed by groundwater flowing in from outside, creating bizarre natural structures that made one wonder where they came from.
Perhaps choosing to go to Dachstein after a casual conversation on the bus was the best decision I ever made.
Back to Hallstatt
Not forgetting the main purpose of the trip, I descended the mountain at 5 pm, when the sun was still blazing hot as spring was approaching. I felt like I was standing in the midday heat of Saigon. The bus wouldn't arrive for another 30 minutes, so I asked the people waiting around if we could all take a 7-seater taxi together; it would only cost 2.50 Euros per person, but we could reach Hallstatt in no time.
Returning to Hallstatt Lahn, the sun was already behind the mountains. The sunlight wasn't as beautiful as when I'd briefly visited Hallstatt at midday. But the ancient village was still lovely. The winding streets and well-preserved old houses, painted with fresh paint, were stunning. I gasped with delight at the sight of the pure white swans swimming in the lake, and my heart fluttered at the sight of couples strolling hand-in-hand through this village, renowned as one of the most beautiful and worthwhile villages to visit in Europe.
I was traveling alone with my camera, so it was inevitable that a few couples would ask me to take their pictures. One Italian couple asked me to photograph them, and we chatted animatedly while taking turns posing for photos of each other in every corner of Hallstatt. When the sun started to set around 6:30, they began to head back. Although we only knew each other by chance, I was invited to share a ride back to Salzburg. So I got into their four-seater Fiat and we sped back to Hallstatt.
I felt that day wasn't just about exploring the nature and villages of Austria, but also about making new friends unexpectedly. That's the magic of travel; sometimes, just a few words are enough to get to know each other better and become friends in the blink of an eye. Perhaps, travel makes our minds less hesitant and fearful, teaches us to accept the friendliness of strangers more, and allows ourselves to open up more.
Additional information
+ Cultural and natural heritage
- The ancient village of Hallstatt and the Dachstein mountain in the Salzkammergut region of Austria are a special UNESCO World Heritage site, having been recognized as both a Cultural and Natural Heritage site. If you've been there, you'll see that this recognition is well-deserved, as the Salzkammergut region possesses a harmonious blend of human and natural elements. Imagine being in a fairytale-like village and then climbing to the summit of Dachstein, overwhelmed by the snow-capped mountains and ice caves.
- The Dachstein mountain range is a branch of the famous Alps, stretching across western Austria. If you're looking for an Alpine climbing experience, Dachstein will give you a sense of the majestic Alps. I didn't even know Dachstein was part of the Alps until I read the guide at the rest stop.
+ Things to note when traveling to Hallstatt/Dachstein Salzkammergut
- Bus tickets can be purchased directly on the bus, and if you want to stop somewhere, just tell the driver.
- The last bus from Ice Cave to Hallstatt and Bad Ischl is at 5:25 PM, so plan your time accordingly. The journey from Bad Ischl back to Salzburg is more relaxed as buses run until 9 PM.
- Be prepared for a long wait for each bus.
- Dachstein Station 3 is only accessible during the summer. During spring, autumn, and winter, you can only access Station 2 at most.
