Tra Que - a 300-year-old vegetable village that brings its fragrant aroma to Hoi An's cuisine.

Fresh greens are an indispensable ingredient in the traditional dishes of Hoi An ancient town, Quang Nam province. Lettuce, basil, and mint blend with the golden Quang noodles and cao lau in a rich broth; the pungent coriander mixes with crispy rice paper in Cam Nam clam salad; and the slightly bitter mustard greens are wrapped in crunchy banh xeo (Vietnamese savory pancake). The flavors of Central Vietnam melt on the tongue, leaving many exclaiming with delight. Discerning palates recognize the unique flavor of the greens in Hoi An's dishes.

"These vegetables come from Tra Que village, their aroma is unlike anywhere else," the restaurant owners, with their unmistakable Quang Nam accent, proudly introduce to customers this gift from nature. What makes Tra Que vegetables so different? This question has prompted many diners to travel to the very place where the vegetables are grown and harvested to find the answer.

SEEING CHILDHOOD MEMORIES IN THE VEGETABLE FIELDS

Located about 3.5 km from the center of Hoi An city, Tra Que vegetable village in Cam Ha commune is surrounded by the De Vong River and Tra Que lagoon. Throughout all four seasons, the village is covered in a vibrant green and filled with fragrant aromas. The pungent scent of spring onions, the earthy aroma of basil, the bitter taste of bitter herbs... sometimes overwhelming and intense, other times subtly lingering in the breeze.

Established 400 years ago, Tra Que village was originally called Nhu Que because it was filled with the scent of herbs and plants like cinnamon. In the early 18th century, a Nguyen dynasty king visited the village and enjoyed the local cuisine. Among the vegetables, the king was particularly impressed by one that had a spicy, cinnamon-like flavor and a fragrant, camellia-like aroma, so he renamed the village Tra Que. Since then, the name Tra Que has remained with the village to this day.

Like many other rural areas, every corner of Tra Que village has a simple charm. There are small huts with old brick walls – where farmers keep their tools and rest to drink water; and hoes, shovels, and watering cans lying tilted among the rows of plants after hours of hard work.

Like many other rural areas, each new day in Tra Que begins with gentle sunlight piercing through the hazy mist, the crowing of roosters breaking the tranquil atmosphere. Adults go to the fields to water and remove pests from the vegetables; children ride their bicycles to school, their clear laughter echoing along the village roads through the lush green. As evening falls, amidst the distant green, the conical hats of farmers bobbing as they harvest their crops appear; little children, only four or five years old, happily follow their mothers to the garden. In the distance, the wheels of bicycles and wheelbarrows turn steadily, carrying the fruits of their labor home or to the market.

Perhaps many people see their childhood memories there, among those green vegetable patches.

WHAT MAKES CINNAMON TEA SO FLAVORED?

Hundreds of years ago, the people of Tra Que were primarily fishermen, relying on shrimp and fish for their livelihood. Gradually, they discovered that the alluvial soil, sandy loam, surrounding rivers and lagoons providing year-round water, and the cool, temperate climate were ideal for growing vegetables. They began planting their first vegetables, then expanded cultivation and maintained it as a traditional occupation to this day. Over 300 years of vegetable farming, the techniques passed down from generation to generation have contributed to the renowned delicious flavor of Tra Que vegetables.

Locals say that the white sandy soil makes Tra Que vegetables pure and clean, but the nutrients are the secret behind the vegetables' unique aroma.

For hundreds of years, people have been harvesting seaweed from Tra Que Lagoon and Thu Bon River to fertilize the soil. The seaweed decomposes quickly and provides a high level of nutrients, giving the vegetables a unique aroma found nowhere else. As the demand for nutrients increases and the seaweed supply becomes insufficient, farmers do not use chemical fertilizers but instead use animal manure and cow dung to increase soil fertility. This manual farming method, completely free of chemicals and following a closed-loop process, ensures that Tra Que not only produces clean, refreshing produce but also absolutely protects the environment.

Viewed from above, the village, with its 40 hectares of cultivated land, is divided into neat rows of vegetables in varying shades of green. Each row is about 1 meter wide, separated by small pathways. The sight of these perfectly aligned rows is enough to imagine the meticulous care of the farmers day after day, rain or shine. Around 40 different types of green vegetables are grown here, including many characteristic varieties such as lettuce, perilla, basil, mint, onions, bitter greens, etc., which, when mixed together, offer the five essential flavors of spicy, salty, sweet, bitter, and astringent, indispensable in any meal.

Tra Que village has nearly 300 households. Of these, about 200 households are involved in vegetable production. Each household is allocated land according to the number of family members. Vegetables are grown in two seasons: the winter season from November to March, and the summer season from May to November each year.

Growing vegetables seems easy, but it's not simple at all. Mr. Le Van Bay (a resident of Tra Que village) said that because the sandy soil absorbs water quickly, the vegetables must be watered continuously, up to 5 times a day from morning to evening. Despite the development of agricultural science and technology, the people of Tra Que still maintain traditional farming methods. In contrast to the bustling streets of the tourist city, on the vegetable fields of Tra Que, anyone who comes here will easily see farmers wearing conical hats, carrying two watering cans on their shoulders, their feet moving nimbly along the small paths. Watering the vegetables also requires skill and high attention. To ensure the water penetrates the soil sufficiently, the watering force needs to be moderate, the frequency rhythmic, not too strong as it can easily cause soil erosion and root damage.

With beads of sweat on his forehead, Uncle Bay still enthusiastically said, "Vegetables here are easy to grow, it's just that they tend to get damaged during the rainy season. Our village receives heavy rainfall, but because the land is located on high ground, we've never been submerged by floods."

Nowadays, in addition to manual watering, people have installed extensive automatic watering systems on their vegetable beds to save time and labor.

ABUNDANT VEGETABLE HARVESTS

Vegetables bring a refreshing and fragrant green atmosphere to Tra Que. From the soil of Tra Que, vegetables are used in dishes like Quang noodles and Cao Lau. Vegetables also contribute to building a prosperous life for the local people. Before the pandemic, Tra Que was not only an agricultural production area but also a bustling eco-tourism and community tourism destination. During peak periods, Tra Que could welcome thousands of tourists daily, mostly foreigners, who came to experience the local life. They were willing to pay to "transform" themselves into farmers.

Since the arrival of Covid-19, the laughter and chatter of tourists have given way to the sounds of everyday life. This period has been a time for Tra Que to rest and regain its slow pace of life. Despite the loss of tourism revenue, the villagers of Tra Que continue to produce fresh vegetables to supply Hoi An and the surrounding areas.

According to the People's Committee of Cam Ha commune, Tra Que produces an average of 860 tons of vegetables annually, generating revenue of approximately 13 billion VND. After deducting expenses, the farmers earn 8 billion VND. Specifically for the 2022 Lunar New Year vegetable season, Tra Que supplied 180 tons of vegetables to the market, generating 2 billion VND in revenue. This Lunar New Year vegetable season brought in a profit of 1.4 billion VND for the farmers.

Visitors to Tra Que often want to learn about traditional vegetable farming, or simply to breathe in the pleasant air. Some come to Tra Que to walk barefoot on the soil and feel the dampness caress their skin; to plant vegetables themselves in the Hoi An soil as a way to experience the local lifestyle and reconnect with their childhood. Visitors come and go, enduring countless rains and sunshine, silently weathering the days of the pandemic, yet Tra Que vegetables remain green and fragrant, just like their name suggests, and quietly find their way into the delicious meals of the people of Quang Nam.

Text and photos: Phuong Le