Hanoi is entering Autumn. Simply put, as Hanoians often tell each other, this is the most beautiful season of the year because of the pleasant weather and poetic scenery. I chose a beautiful day to go to Cuoi Ngo after almost a year of not setting foot there.
Nestled in the small alley 68 Cau Giay, Cuoi Ngo often makes first-time visitors get lost. It is not surprising that anyone coming here for the first time is surprised by the small space but creates a sense of closeness and peace. Leaving behind the hustle and bustle of the city, Cuoi Ngo cafe seems to bring us back to a slow-paced life. Coming here, you will be immersed in the familiar yet strange colors of time of the old days.
The gate is about two meters high like a miniature version of the old village gate.
“The rain still falls on the ancient tower
Long arms, long eyes, pale
Listening to the autumn leaves and rain rustle, my small heels wear away
The long road makes the eyes deeper…”
Entering the shop, Trinh's music filled the small room. I ordered my usual drink. And then a conversation took place between me and the shop owner - Mr. Nguyen Dang Khai.
The house creates the right feeling of "a place to return to" for many generations of people living in Hanoi.
Cuoi Ngo was established nearly 20 years ago. The space of the shop is covered by yellow light along with a low-roofed house, a set of old-style dark brown wooden tables and chairs, creating a space that is both warm and peaceful. Nearly 20 years have passed, Cuoi Ngo has welcomed many guests with many stories, has changed many times but the familiar dim yellow light is still intact as in the beginning.
When I asked him what inspired the idea for End of the Alley and what happened next, Khai burst out laughing.
He said: “To me, Cuoi Ngo is work and life. When talking about this, some people will feel disappointed and find it unreasonable in this space, but that's the nature of it. Of course, even though it's work, why I chose this place to open a shop is another story. I personally like quiet. 20 years ago, it was different than now. 20 years ago, there were no social networks or smartphones, people still only communicated with each other by 'brick' phones, so making the decision to open a shop was quite difficult at that time. Gradually, with the influence of the media, it became much easier. When it first opened, it was mainly artists who came and most of them were my friends, people who liked 'corners'. And the customers who came were usually people who liked quietness."
Some of the paintings are old and quite dated.
Every Friday night, Cuoi Ngo will dedicate space to Trinh's timeless music performed through the warm sounds of guitar and violin, or songs about old Hanoi, bringing a strangely elegant atmosphere and character.
A Trinh music performance on Friday night at Cuoi Ngo cafe
Mr. Khai believes that the musicians who perform are people who truly appreciate Trinh’s music. If they don’t like Trinh’s music but still perform, they are no different from “workers playing instruments.”
Choosing Trinh's music as the highlight for Cuoi Ngo probably came to him by chance and instinct.
From the beginning until now, Cuoi Ngo has had a habit that is still maintained, which is to change the flowers very often. Day by day, every time I come here, the first thing that comes to my mind is: what flowers will be today? Obviously, going to a coffee shop to chat and listen to music is a common thing. But coming to Cuoi Ngo to see flowers is also considered an elegant pleasure.
Flowers arranged at the End of the Alley are usually "seasonal"
Diners often think that the flower vases arranged and "displayed" on the table must have been made by a girl. But few people know that Mr. Khai is the one who meticulously chooses each flower to match each vase. Each flower is usually "seasonally appropriate". There are lotus flowers, purple flowers, sometimes roses, daisies...
I asked Mr. Khai that, as society becomes more and more modern, young people often “prefer” stylish coffee shops like Cuoi Ngo. He did not hesitate to share: “Customers are always there. Cuoi Ngo was not born as a trend or following a trend. It was born from the 'beginning'. To talk about Cuoi Ngo, there are mainly two words: quiet and close. Even if you have only been there once, there is still an 'invisible connection' between people.”
Coming to Cuoi Ngo is not only to enjoy the classical space but also to listen to stories, the gentle, lingering melodies of an old time. Some people think that in a space like this, going with a lover or close friend is the only way to fully admire the beauty of Cuoi Ngo.
Decorative objects are as "natural as breathing"
To be honest, I am not someone who understands every word of Trinh's music. But every time the melody plays at Cuoi Ngo, it has a strange attraction. It is not easy for people to keep such a simple, rustic Hanoi in the heart of the city. Cuoi Ngo creates an old feeling in the most natural way, not ostentatious but just a special small shop for guests to visit.
Somewhere I once heard that Cuoi Ngo is for those who love Trinh's music, for those who silently stand by life and watch the changes of human life, for those who love life with the heart of a desperate person... There are people who will find a feeling of nostalgia here, but there are also people who shed tears because the melodies here resonate with their souls.
Some drinks like smoothies, coffee, tea, wine and snacks like roasted peanuts, sunflower seeds... are the main drinks at Cuoi Ngo, as simple as its name.
Diners come to Cuoi Ngo because they love the familiarity and closeness of this place.
If you are wondering to find yourself a classic, quiet coffee shop for a leisurely weekend and enjoy a few Trinh songs, Cuoi Ngo is definitely a space "worth" trying.
"How many years have passed and you are still gone
Where to go around for tired life
Shining through a hundred years of coming and going…”
