VI
EN
On our "back to our roots" journey, visiting my uncle's house in Quang Binh, and exploring famous historical sites of the former battlefields in the "steel land" of Quang Tri... on the last day of our trip, we rented motorbikes and rode around. After searching for a while, we finally found a famous banh canh (rice noodle soup) restaurant in Dong Hoi and planned to go for coffee. The blue sky, white clouds, and golden sunshine of a Sunday morning made our motorbike ride aimlessly, and by chance, we wandered onto a dirt road covered with red gravel, leading us to a scenic spot, an archaeological site with a rather strange and interesting name: Bau Tro.
The name "Bàu Tró" originates from the local dialect. In the Central Vietnamese dialect, a lake is called "Bàu," while "Tró" is an ancient term used by the indigenous people.
Surprise, curiosity, and delight filled me. In the midst of a rapidly growing and bustling second-tier city like Dong Hoi, there was suddenly a patch of forest with its regular, lush, and peaceful green foliage. The further I went, the more tranquil it felt, with butterflies fluttering in the early morning, the rustling of leaves punctuated by the occasional high-pitched chirping of birds. The verdant, even, and thriving grass beneath the trees was evidence that this place was rarely visited. As I moved closer to the water's edge, the grass became thicker and coarser, growing from the fine, white sand. Some clumps of old grass still retained the dry, scorched marks of the recent dry season in Central Vietnam, with its winds, sand, and blazing sun.
And a serene, crystal-clear freshwater lake appeared in the tranquil, beautiful morning, leaving us both amazed and delighted. Why is such a lovely place so little known, so rarely seen or read about in tourism promotional media? Passing by an ancient casuarina tree with its characteristic twisted roots typical of plants in windy, sandy regions, we reached a long, gently sloping shoreline. The lake felt almost untouched, untouched by concrete embankments or the noisy hustle and bustle of tourism. The water's surface was calm and peaceful, occasionally rippling with the reflections of fish. Near the trail, we caught glimpses of small boats, about the size of the small boats found in the Southwest of Vietnam, and a few long, dry tree trunks that served as bridges at shallow points where locals could draw water.
Lush green forest surrounds Bau Tro.
After looking around and taking our phones out to locate the spot, we exclaimed in delight because Bau Tro Lake was only about 100 meters from Nhat Le Beach. The name "Bau Tro" comes from the local dialect. In the Central Vietnamese dialect, the lake is called "Bau," and "Tro" is an ancient term used by the indigenous people. Legend has it that Bau Tro Lake has the cleanest freshwater source, which the locals used only on important occasions like weddings and ancestral worship ceremonies. This explains the simple, rustic bridges we saw above.
The place name Bau Tro is associated with mysterious folk tales. One story says the lake was formed from the footprints of a giant passing through the area, as the lake's shape resembles a very large foot. Another story suggests the lake was formed from the water of an underground river flowing beneath the land of Quang Binh.
Leaving my shoes aside, I took a stroll, feeling the soft, damp sand underfoot, mixed with the gentle evening dew. Near the road, I sat on a leaning tree trunk, happily posed for some unique photos, and then headed home. On the way out, I came across a weathered plaque inscribed with brief information about this coastal landmark, like a beautiful seaside maiden. It turns out that Bau Tro is an important freshwater lake for Dong Hoi, and the local authorities have kept it intact and clean to ensure the health of the city's residents. This lake is famous for its archaeological significance, as French and Vietnamese archaeologists have unearthed artifacts dating back approximately 5,000 years at this site. The Bau Tro artifacts are important relics for studying the traces of the Vietnamese people in the Central region.
Located north of the Nhật Lệ estuary in Quảng Bình, amidst towering sand dunes, Bàu Tró amazes anyone who visits for the first time with its poetic beauty.
In the summer of 1923, two French correspondents from the French School of Far Eastern Studies, Max and Depiruy, discovered the archaeological site at Bau Tro. Later that summer, geologist and archaeologist Étienne Patte organized the excavation. The artifacts found and published included numerous stone axes, chipped fragments, quartz grinding stones, grain mills, broken pottery fragments, etc., providing evidence of the presence of ancient Vietnamese people in this area since the Neolithic period.
In early 1980, Hue University organized a re-excavation of the Bau Tro site, located more than 100 meters west of E. Patte's excavation pit. The artifacts recovered included numerous axes, grinding stones, pestles, arrowheads, and countless fragments of broken pottery from various types of pots, pans, jars, and vases. From then on, archaeologists named the Bau Tro culture, which was distributed in the coastal areas of Nghe An, Ha Tinh, Quang Binh, Quang Tri, and Thua Thien provinces, after this site.
As ordinary tourists, we discovered something new and exciting. If we have the chance to return, we will definitely spend more time at Bau Tro, perhaps gathering for a camping picnic to enjoy the beautiful, peaceful, and almost pristine scenery. We will feel thrilled to be in a place where giants once walked or where our ancestors lived about 5,000 years ago.
