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The emergence of Patina art
With basic colors like black and brown becoming boring, choosing colors that express individuality for classic shoes quickly became a new trend for gentlemen. And that's how Patina was born.
Patina refers to the hand-dyeing process applied to finished shoes made from natural leather. This dyeing process requires not only the selection of high-quality raw leather (undyed leather) but also the skillful technique and experience of the artisan to create the resulting artwork.
At the time, most men's shoes were black or brown; Olga developed a novel and eye-catching color palette. The shoes became more unique and stylish.
Patina originated from the renowned shoe brand Berluti in the 1970s. It is a handcrafted coloring technique using subtle layers of blended colors or varying shades of light and dark on the leather.
Patina shoes are truly unique because no two colors are alike, even with the same technique and the same hands. Since its inception, patina shoes have marked a breakthrough in the men's leather shoe industry and are considered a symbol of high-end men's dress shoes. They are the culmination of the skillful hands, aesthetic sense, and extreme creativity of shoemakers in their color effects. Because of the uniqueness of the colors, patina application results in products with distinct hues; no two shoes are alike. With patina, each pair of shoes is a different work of art, with varying shades and even patterns depending on the individual gentleman's preference.
Patina men's leather shoes are made by applying color to raw cowhide, which has never been dyed, and then applying multiple layers of color to create a permanent finish. Creating these masterpieces of Patina shoes is no simple process. It requires the shoemaker to have skillful hands, patience, care, finesse, and meticulous attention to detail in every step.
It's no coincidence that Patina shoes have become a symbol of the successful gentleman. Their unique colors and artistic qualities make Patina shoes truly special.
Founded in 1895 with a pioneering spirit in design, for over a century, the Berluti leather goods house has consistently produced works of art for renowned gentlemen. From painter Pablo Picasso, singers Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra, to pop-art king Andy Warhol and legendary fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent...
The founder of the brand, Alessandro Berluti, established his shoemaking business in a very unique way. While in those times, making a pair of shoes required many pieces joined together, Berluti pioneered the first Oxford shoemaking technique using only a single piece of leather (whole cut), creating a smooth, seamless overall structure extending from toe to heel, a timeless elegance. The next generation, Torello Berluti, focused on 3D shoemaking, emphasizing the size, weight, and volume of each pair of shoes – something that shoemakers of the time had overlooked. Later, brothers Talbinio Berluti and Olga Berluti incorporated these unique, handcrafted shoemaking techniques into ready-to-wear shoes and bespoke bag designs.
When Olga started working at Berluti, gentlemen typically only wore brown shoes after 6 p.m., otherwise they wore black. In Olga's eyes, nothing was more beautiful than shoes covered in color and showing the patina effect over time. This thought led her to invent a technique called Patina – using creams and natural pigments to give shoes varying degrees of color durability and depth. By mixing colors in different shades, varying the transparency of the color, and applying different levels of pressure, Patina artists create intentionally arranged light and dark areas, much like sculpting in painting, onto "sculptural feet."
Patina shoes become "one of a kind" because no two colors are alike, even if they are done with the same technique and by the same hands.
Instead of uniformly coloring the entire shoe, Berluti's Patina style incorporates color in a very natural way, so that newly applied layers of color also have the feel of having weathered over time, creating an overall natural look. Even after prolonged use, Patina shoes fade naturally, each stage creating a unique and evolving beauty. At that point, the owner can have the shoes repainted with a bespoke Patina color, and the shoes are "reborn" in a completely new appearance. Therefore, Berluti shoes and bags typically have a very long lifespan.
It must be said that this was a color revolution in the world of men's shoes, paving the way for a future full of freedom and spontaneity. Olga Berluti developed a color palette of up to nine colors that were not typically found in a gentleman's wardrobe at the time, and to this day, stylish gentlemen are no longer limited to wearing only brown and black shoes.
Home Nguyen and the first Boutique Berluti in Hanoi.
Unique shoes created through the art of Patina.
Hom Nguyen was born and raised in France. He embarked on a journey from a Patina shoe artist to a portrait painter. To celebrate the opening of their first boutique in Vietnam, the century-old leather goods manufacturer Berluti invited artist Hom Nguyen back to France to honor the art of Patina.
As an independent Patina artist, Hom Nguyen sells and polishes shoes. He started by applying colors to leather and mastering Patina polishing techniques to create vibrant artwork on the feet of collectors.
Hom Nguyen started out as a Patina artist before turning to painting.
Along with his painting skills, Hom Nguyen later started painting on shoes and tattooing on skin, creating a small buzz. He achieved a more stable life and gained recognition in this field. Some clients had to wait because of the backlog of unique orders. Hom Nguyen was surprised by his own development in the art of Patina, which also gave him confidence in his artistic sensibilities and led him to decide to delve deeper into the field.
Thanks to his shoes, Hom Nguyen no longer had to struggle with the daily grind of making ends meet. However, he knew he had no desire to open a large workshop or become a shoe company owner. The more he worked, the more he questioned himself, and the more he understood, leading to his decision to return to painting in 2009.
Although he officially became an artist when he was almost 40 years old, Hom Nguyen had the honor of having his works displayed at the Grand Palais – the “Triumphal Arch” of the art world in Paris.
Berluti launches its first boutique in Hanoi.
Berluti, an iconic fashion house known for its patina artistry and leather craftsmanship for gentlemen, has launched its first boutique in Vietnam. The brand's first boutique in Vietnam opened on September 3rd, located at 57 Ly Thai To Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi. The brand is officially distributed by S&S Group.
Since 1895, the brand has built a reputation for its superior expertise and skill in crafting men's shoes, bags, and leather accessories, passed down through generations, beginning with Alessandro Berluti.
Hom Nguyen (right) creates shoes using the Patina art technique at Berluti Hanoi.
The first store is located in Hanoi's French Quarter, opposite the Metropole Hotel and next to the Capella Hotel. The boutique design focuses on simplicity yet elegance, primarily using wood and leather. These are also the two signature materials of the fashion house from its early days.
Berluti Hanoi stands out with its unique leather patina wall – a symbol of the brand's craftsmanship. Additionally, there is a chandelier inspired by Vietnamese terraced rice fields, representing Berluti's savoir-faire style and relentless spirit of innovation.
Inheriting a legacy of craftsmanship spanning generations, Berluti develops its own unique style by combining boldness and fantasy in each design. "Each design from the brand is a harmonious symphony of classicism and modern thinking," a brand representative stated.
This painting was specially created by Hom Nguyen for Berluti Hanoi on the occasion of its opening.
Sharing their thoughts on the opening of their 67th boutique worldwide, a representative from Berluti stated: “I am thrilled to be participating in this special event celebrating the grand opening of the first Berluti boutique in Vietnam, partnering with S&S Group and artist Hom Nguyen to honor the artistic value of Patina, the essence of Berluti. This is a truly unique and unprecedented collaboration.”
Right on the second floor of the boutique, artist Hom Nguyen demonstrated the final stages of completing a special painting exclusively for Berluti and only available at Berluti Hanoi. The painting expresses the artist's gratitude to Patina art, which has sustained him and fueled his passion for art through the most difficult times.
