A date in Sa Pa and Hue in the early days of winter.

Cloud hunting, following the shadow of the sun.

First appointment with Silk Path

Famous for its majestic mountains and sprawling terraced rice fields, Sa Pa was my first destination on my 5-day, 4-night trip. My main goal was to chase the clouds and watch the sunrise and sunset in Sa Pa, but I never imagined that this misty town could offer so many moments that exceeded my expectations.

We stopped at Silk Path Grand Sapa Resort & Spa, a resort described as a "French castle" amidst the clouds, before beginning our exploration, thanks to a recommendation from an acquaintance. Silk Path Grand Sapa sits on a private hill just about 1 km from the town center, enveloped in the elegant white of classic European architecture, interspersed with the lush green of the layers of trees in the expansive Courtyard. Under the morning mist, the place is truly impressive and magnificent.

Inside, the resort is even more enchanting with its exquisite Indochinese architecture, antique wooden interiors, and distinctive local decorative details. Following the stone paths leading to the buildings, you'll find a diverse range of comfortable rooms, categorized by the characteristic colors of the Northwest's natural landscape.

My travel companion and I stayed in a Junior Suite, an eye-catching indigo-toned room with a fantastic private balcony overlooking the town and distant mountains. Every morning, I tried to wake up early to enjoy coffee in my room and savor the feeling of touching the clouds, feeling the cool breeze and the gentle sunlight softly caressing my senses. Sunrise in Sa Pa is magical. As the sun begins to rise from behind the distant mountains, the surrounding landscape begins to reveal its breathtaking beauty.

Unforgettable moments

From Silk Path, we traveled to O Quy Ho Pass. The sky transformed from a hazy white to a captivating blue. Around midday, we quickly moved on to the route to climb Fansipan Peak to conquer a new altitude and chase the crimson sunset. After a long journey, taking the cable car and hiking across rocky ledges, the legendary Fansipan peak appeared before me – the “Roof of Indochina” at 3,147 meters above sea level, with the Fansipan flagpole standing tall, symbolizing successful conquest, and the panoramic view of the lush green Hoang Lien Son mountain range, deep valleys, and streams winding across the landscape.

Reaching the deepest levels of body, mind, and spirit.

In the afternoon, the whole group returned to the hotel with an invitation to enjoy tea from the friendly General Manager and experience a unique energy-rejuvenating meditation class at the Then Yard outdoor area. At an altitude of 1,500 meters above sea level, the highest point of central Sa Pa, where the sun shines brightly and the life force of the earth and sky converges, I closed my eyes, listened to my own breath, and allowed my body, mind, and spirit to balance. When I opened my eyes, the sky painted in the purple hues of the sunset moved me deeply and made me love life even more. After the meditation, we bathed in Dao herbal water, soaking in wooden tubs filled with fragrant medicinal herbs, feeling our bodies and spirits relax and be nourished.

Concluding our trip to Sa Pa, our group raised our glasses together, enjoying a steaming hot chicken hotpot with fragrant rice flakes, reminiscing about our cloud-chasing and sunset-following experiences, and getting ready for the eagerly awaited trip to Hue next.

Living in golden memories

The second "date" in the ancient capital.

Arriving in Hue on an early morning train, we quickly traveled to our accommodation by the hotel's private car. The driver was very friendly and outgoing, recommending many delicious restaurants frequented by locals.

Silk Path Grand Hue Hotel & Spa was our stop in the ancient capital, and it's also the place that left the deepest impression on me! Located in the city center, the hotel is very convenient for getting around. As the lobby doors opened, I felt like I had stepped into a contemporary art gallery, with its spacious interior, windows that let in harmonious natural light, elaborate wall designs, and an impressive collection of court-themed paintings by master lacquer artist Bui Huu Hung, skillfully displayed alongside antiques such as ceramic vases, porcelain, and folk sculptures.

I stayed in a Junior Suite, predominantly blue, symbolizing the sky, with luxurious wooden furnishings and windows overlooking the tranquil An Cuu River. The overall architecture and the rooms here are harmonious, bearing the mark of elegant Indochinese style, luxurious palace-like beauty, and sophisticated eclectic decor.

At lunchtime, we dined at Nam Phuong Restaurant, inspired by the last empress of the Nguyen dynasty. The restaurant's atmosphere was both warm and aesthetically pleasing, with gilded partitions featuring traditional motifs, and a collection of paintings and photographs depicting Hue, its people, and historical milestones. Our hurried meal consisted of clam rice, vegetables, braised pork belly, and fish soup in a simple yet delicious and hearty lagoon-style dish, full of the authentic Hue flavor and the warmth of the Hue people.

Discover the culture and heritage of Hue.

In the afternoon, we rode in a cyclo, traversing ancient streets in the cool weather of the late year, and stopped at the Imperial Citadel - one of the great cultural heritage sites of Hue and Vietnam.

Strolling through the vast courtyard, we passed through the magnificent Ngo Mon Gate, the Imperial Citadel – where the king held court, and the Forbidden City – the residence of the king and royal family. We admired the majestic, tranquil, and regal atmosphere, and the ancient artifacts that were carefully preserved and displayed. Walking along the vermilion-red corridors reflecting the fading afternoon sun and through the breezy outdoor gardens, I learned so much more about Vietnamese history and culture, especially during the prosperous Nguyen dynasty.

We returned to the hotel just in time for the final afternoon tea service. Sitting in the stylish Lobby Lounge, listening to soothing music, enjoying Asian and European-style tea and pastries along with fragrant butterfly pea flower tea, all our fatigue seemed to be soothed away.

We took advantage of the opportunity to capture beautiful photos at the stunning check-in spots with their ethereal golden and crimson tones. To end the first day, I chose a 3-in-1 relaxation treatment at Chi Spa. This is the largest wellness center in Hue, with modern and advanced facilities and a team of highly skilled therapists, which awakened all my senses.

Going back in time

The next day's stop was An Hien Garden House – one of the most beautiful ancient garden houses in Hue. Located at 58 Nguyen Phuc Nguyen, just a 10-minute drive from the hotel, An Hien Garden House captivated me with its serene, nostalgic beauty and perfectly executed architectural and feng shui details. The three-bay, two-wing house, constructed from wood and red tiles, with its lush green garden and fish pond right in front, creates a peaceful and poetic atmosphere.

After lingering for a while, we sat down to enjoy Imperial tea, savoring the rich, nutty flavor of sesame candy that evoked childhood memories, attentively listening to the gentle, soothing voice of our Hue guide as she recounted the history of the house from the 19th century to the present day. The scene of the garden, with its rustling flowers and fruit trees in the cool breeze, harmonized with the story in a strangely captivating way, making me feel as if I were living in those years, a part of that time and that memory.

Bidding farewell to our guide, we visited Hue's most ancient temple – Thien Mu Pagoda, nestled peacefully beside the Perfume River, to express our reverence and pray for peace and harmony on our upcoming trips. In the afternoon, we made time to visit Thuy Xuan incense village – where clusters of colorful incense flowers bloom brilliantly in every photograph. Then we went to the Minh Mang, Khai Dinh, and Tu Duc tombs, not far away.

We returned to the hotel as dusk was falling. Coincidentally, it was the full moon, so the garden near the swimming pool was strung with shimmering, magical lanterns. We quickly got ready, donned our traditional five-panel dresses, and joined other small groups for tea, followed by a royal-style dinner. The artists sang soothing, heartfelt songs, as if telling stories of Hue and showering us with genuine affection. Finally, I understood why so many people, when they come to Hue and stay there, are so reluctant to leave.

Our journey ended the following day. As I got off the train at the station, I was still filled with mixed emotions, reluctant to leave the ancient capital. Our days in Sa Pa and Hue were short but memorable, fulfilling, and the experiences were difficult to put into words! Goodbye Sa Pa, farewell Hue, and see you again!

Phuong Mai is a reporter for Travellive Magazine in Hanoi.

Phuong Mai