VI
EN
Deep within the dense forests of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountain range in Colombia lies the ancient city of Ciudad Perdida, also known as the "Lost City".
Built by the Tairona people over 1,000 years ago, this archaeological site only became a major attraction after its discovery in the 1970s. Originally named Teyuna by the Tairona, it was later renamed Ciudad Perdida. This ancient wonder is often compared to Machu Picchu, as both are archaeological sites situated on hillsides deep within the South American rainforest.
However, Teyuna is now over 600 years old and not as easily accessible as its Peruvian counterpart, as there are no train or bus routes to reach it. The only way to see its beauty firsthand is on foot – a multi-day trek that could leave you exhausted before you can even begin to admire the ruins.
Challenge yourself
Despite the challenges of this arduous journey, I remained determined to reach Ciudad Perdida. The trip began in a small town called Mamey, a two-hour drive from Santa Marta, located in the north of the country and along Colombia's Caribbean coast.
Visitors to the "Lost City" must be accompanied by a licensed guide, but booking a tour to the ruins online is generally quite easy through several local tour companies. After enjoying lunch in Mamey, I got acquainted with the other 12 members of the group and our guide, Pedro. As we traversed the dirt road, winding through large banana trees, towering palm trees, and various dangling ropes, we knew we were officially entering the challenge. It was for this reason that participants were advised to be in good physical condition. This was a 47 km (29 mile) trek up and down four small mountains, facing constantly changing temperatures and stifling high humidity. Fortunately, we had mules as companions to carry food and supplies to the cabin where we would sleep along the way. We were on a winding road along the Rio Buritaca, crossing several stretches of river, so the temperature was quite cool.
from a local's perspective
After our first dinner together at dusk, we gathered around the table and listened as Pedro shared the history of the area he called "home." During Pedro's time living there, the region has witnessed three economic booms. The first two were linked to illegal substances: first, cannabis cultivation, and then coca, the plant used to produce cocaine. (Harvesting coca leaves is legal in both Bolivia and Peru, but not in Colombia. There are currently some movements to legalize coca in that country.)
Although cultivating these crops provides local residents with significant income, the industry also breeds mafia gangs. The government has made considerable efforts to improve the violence situation in Ciudad Perdida, and this has paved the way for the third wave: tourism.
Third wave
Because of the region's rather troubled history, many people are still hesitant to travel to Colombia.
In 2003, a group of tourists were kidnapped while trekking to the "Lost City," with some of them held captive for up to 100 days before being released.
However, today, this place is under the protection of the Colombian army. This is a move aimed at strengthening regional security, helping to reassure thousands of tourists who come here, including myself.
Meet the wiwa people
The Wiwa people are the ancestors of today's Tairona people – who have remained undisturbed for centuries. They have a special spiritual connection to this land that persists to this day.
Dressed entirely in white – a color the Wiwa people consider sacred – they allowed us to learn a little about the tribe's daily life.
They showed us how to strip the wax from palm leaves and use the fibers to make crossbody bags called mochillas. They let us taste coca leaves, which the Wiwa people consider sacred and chew all day long. They also showed us...poporoTheir device, a gourd containing lime powder from seashells, when mixed with coca leaves, produces a mild stimulating effect. In the Wiwa community, when a boy receives...poporo,It also serves as a coming-of-age ritual, marking the transition to adolescence.
The following morning, we began our early morning hike, but under the high temperatures, I started to experience muscle cramps as I reached the final stretch, where I had to climb 1,200 stone steps built by the Tairona people. Despite the aches and pains, the goal of reaching Ciudad Perdida gave me the strength to complete this arduous journey. The rugged mountain slopes began to open up into a series of stone terraces carved into the peaks and slopes of narrow hillsides, nestled against the backdrop of an exceptionally lush forest.
Perhaps due to exhaustion and a sense of reverence for this sacred place, our group remained silent as Pedro pointed out the site where approximately 2,000 Tairona people lived for centuries until they abandoned it between 1580 and 1650, coinciding with the Spanish colonization of Colombia. Besides the large indigenous communities, the site boasts a total of 169 terraces built on 30 hectares of land, all remarkably well-preserved due to its remote and rugged location. However, in 1972, when looters arrived seeking gold, jewelry, and pottery, they damaged the area. After years of plundering, the Colombian government finally implemented security measures to protect the archaeological site and help rebuild the ancient city. Sitting on one of the highest terraces, I looked down and marveled at the beauty below. It felt as though we were among the select few who had discovered this ancient masterpiece.
The ancient city of Ciudad Perdida requires more time and energy to reach than the Eiffel Tower or Mount Victoria. However, it is precisely this challenge that makes my journey today so incredibly worthwhile.
