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Driving on icy roads
Estonia has seven official ice routes – roads that only appear in winter when the weather is cold enough for the Baltic Sea to freeze over to a depth of at least 22 cm. The most notable is the 26 km Rohuküla-Hiiumaa route, considered the longest ice route in Europe. Another route, 15 km long, connects Triigi on the island of Saaremaa with Tärkma in southern Hiiumaa. These are temporary routes, existing for a few weeks to a few months each year, usually between January and mid-March.
The ice road in Estonia
On these roads, instead of the usual maximum speed limit, driving at average speeds is prohibited. Specifically, you are only allowed to drive below 25 km/h or above 40 km/h, but absolutely not between 25-40 km/h. It sounds illogical, but the reality is quite convincing: the movement of vehicles within this speed range can create resonant waves on the ice surface, similar to the waves at the bow of a ship moving on water. If this continues long enough, these waves can cause surface cracks, leading to unforeseen consequences.
You are only allowed to drive below 25 km/h or above 40 km/h, but you are absolutely not allowed to maintain a speed between 25-40 km/h.
The "reverse" rules
Besides speed limits, there are other equally unusual rules. Drivers are required to unbuckle their seatbelts and leave their car doors unlocked when driving on icy roads. While this seems contrary to all traffic safety recommendations, it allows drivers to easily escape in case the ice breaks. This is a rare occurrence, but not entirely impossible.
A minimum distance of 250 meters must be maintained between vehicles to avoid concentrating weight on a specific icy area. Vehicles are not permitted to stop in the middle of the road, and when a road closure signal is given, usually due to fog, ice cracking, or rising temperatures, all vehicles must immediately turn around and notify those behind them.
The ice path is only open during the day and is thoroughly inspected every morning by local monitoring teams. Ice quality is determined by its thickness, color, texture, and even the sound it makes when tapped. Small wooden planks are placed across small cracks to allow vehicles to pass through easily. The path is often marked with birch branches planted along both sides, serving as makeshift signs amidst the pristine white landscape of snow and ice.
The distance between vehicles must also be maintained at a minimum of 250 meters to avoid concentrating loads on a specific ice area.
One of the safest runways in the world.
Interestingly, the Baltic Sea freezes much more easily than many other seas because it is shallow, less salty, and frequently has freshwater outflows. Thanks to these unique conditions, Estonia is one of the few countries in the world that can maintain an official ice sheet system year after year.
Estonia isn't the only place with airstrips, but few places have a system as well-organized and safe as it does. In Canada, some remote communities in the Northwest Territories or Nunavut also rely on airstrips to supply food and necessities during the winter. In Russia, particularly in Siberia, "zimniks"—winter roads—stretching hundreds of kilometers across rivers and taiga forests, are vital for the survival of the local population. However, many of these lack signage, aren't regularly inspected, and pose a higher risk than the system in Estonia.
Nevertheless, risks are always present. In some years, accidents have occurred on unofficial routes, where people drive haphazardly without permission from the authorities. Therefore, only roads certified by the Estonian Transport Authority are considered safe.
Estonia isn't the only place with runways, but few places have a system as well-organized and safe as here.
The ice is thin, but the joy is abundant.
Despite appearing to be a challenge for thrill-seekers, Estonia's ice roads are a part of daily life – a practical alternative to ferries, especially for residents on islands like Hiiumaa and Saaremaa. Traveling by ice road is faster, more cost-effective, and more flexible than the fixed schedules of ships.
Before the age of automobiles, Estonians traveled across these icy surfaces by horse-drawn carriage. Today, with rally racing deeply ingrained in the local culture, the winter ice routes are also a playground for speed enthusiasts. Companies like icedriving.ee even offer ice driving training courses, including technical exercises in BMWs and 300km-a-day journeys between Viljandi and Tartu, led by professional racers like Sten Pentus.
It's hard to imagine what it feels like to drive on the sea – not across a bridge, but actually on the ice, with the deep ocean below. Under ideal conditions, the sunlight reflecting off the white snow creates a fairytale-like, shimmering scene. In the distance, a few ships can be seen slowly gliding across the horizon, evoking a feeling of both excitement and peace amidst the icy landscape.
In the distance, a few ships could be seen slowly gliding across the horizon, evoking a feeling of both excitement and peace amidst the icy landscape.
Driving on ice in Estonia is a strange blend of adventure and order. You need a good car, keen eyesight, nerves of steel, and absolute adherence to seemingly counterintuitive safety rules. But in return, it's an experience unlike anywhere else in the world – a journey across the ocean without a ship, just a steady hand on the wheel and a passion for exploration.
