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The opportunity finally arrived when I received an invitation from a new friend in Brunei. He enthusiastically took me on a tour of the fascinating places in this country, which is one of the wealthiest Muslim nations in the region, both literally and figuratively.
Text and photos:Phan Ngoc Hanh
Part 1: Hello, land of oil!
Since Brunei's territory is entirely on the island of Borneo (the rest of the island is divided between Malaysia and Indonesia), to get to Brunei I had to transit in Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia). Incidentally, I added a flight route from Kuala Lumpur to Kota Kinabalu, stayed there for a day, and then flew to Miri. Finally, from this Malaysian town, I continued my journey by land to Kuala Belait (Brunei).
The Long Distance bus station in Miri has several ticket counters, but only one sells tickets for the Brunei bus, with two departures each day, morning and afternoon. The ticket seller told me to come back at 3 PM to buy a ticket for the 3:45 PM departure.
The Long Distance bus station was far from the center of Miri, so it was deserted and there was nothing to eat or do. While waiting at the bus station, I gradually finished off all the food supplies I had brought from Vietnam. Moreover, I was traveling to a Muslim country during Ramadan, so there were no restaurants or food stalls open that day.
When the bus departed from Miri to Brunei at 3:45 PM, my friend in the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan (or Bandar for short), was also heading to Kuala Belait. Only by picking me up in Kuala Belait could he take me to visit the Seri oil refinery. There were five passengers on the bus from Miri to Brunei. Now I understand why the ticket seller assured me there were still tickets available at 3 PM, even if you bought a ticket right before departure!
A closer look at the place that brings prosperity to Brunei.
Kuala Belait is Brunei's second-largest city, bordering Miri province (Malaysia). If Bandar, the capital, is likened to Ho Chi Minh City, then Kuala Belait is comparable to Vung Tau. After 45 minutes, the bus reached the Malaysia-Brunei border. Meeting at the Kuala Belait bus station, we began our tour of the oil refinery in Seria.
My first impression of Brunei was that the customs officers were very friendly and polite. They showed me how to say a few polite greetings in the local language. My next impression was that it's a country of lush green forests running along one side of the road, with straight, clean, and peaceful streets. That's why Brunei is also known as the "City in the Garden."
The journey from Kuala Belait to Seria took us about an hour. In Vietnam, when we think of oil refineries, we immediately picture offshore oil rigs and wonder how we can see them up close. In Brunei, at the Seria oil refinery, the oil extraction rigs are scattered along a long stretch of grass bordering the sea. The rigs, with their levers, move up and down rhythmically and quietly. Each rig is surrounded by a fence. It's that simple, but each time a rig moves up and down, it brings in 100 Brunei Dollars, equivalent to about 1.6 million Vietnamese Dong.
Of course, Seria also boasts a large, modern oil refinery that stretches out to sea. Here, the wind blows fiercely, and the sound of waves crashing against the sandy shore is soothing. On the coast, a monument commemorating the significant event of Brunei exporting one billion barrels of oil stands, featuring a striking architecture with six large, curved, interwoven columns in shades of gray and blue. Atop the monument is the symbol of Brunei. It can be said that the oil and gas industry is the main sector contributing to the GDP growth of this small nation.
The capital city of Bandar is magnificent at night.
On our way to the capital Bandar, we stopped at Jerudong Park. Opened in 1994, it's one of the largest amusement parks in Southeast Asia, located about 10km from Bandar. From afar, Jerudong Park stands out with its rows of national flags fluttering in the wind.
Suddenly, it started raining. The rain in Brunei is different from the rain in Vietnam. It's heavy, comes and goes quickly. We quickly ran to the car and continued on to the city center.
As night falls, the capital city of Bandar is illuminated by the golden lights shining on the spires of its mosques. Two mosques stand out, magnificent and opulent: the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque and the Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque.
The Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is one of Brunei's iconic landmarks, symbolizing wealth and prosperity, named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei. Built in 1958, the mosque stands 52 meters tall, featuring a gilded dome, and marble columns and walls. Additionally, it includes tunnels used by the Sultan during his travels through the city.
Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque is the tallest and largest mosque in the capital city of Bandar. It is Brunei's grandest mosque, boasting a gold-plated dome. Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque is the most sacred place, attracting locals and tourists alike for prayer day and night. Built in 1992, the mosque features entirely imported interior elements: Italian paving stones, Australian decorative patterns, and Arabian turf. It is considered a museum housing unique collections that represent Brunei's culture.
As the clock struck midnight, a new day began, and my Bruneian friend continued his tour of the floating village on the Kampong Ayer River. This is the oldest village in Brunei, with a cultural history spanning over 600 years, featuring simple houses along the river. Right at the pier, there are wooden boats available to take visitors into the village for sightseeing.
I was starting to feel tired, but when I saw the magnificent Istana Nurul Iman palace with its unique architecture, resplendent in golden lights, my eyes suddenly lit up. I got out of the car and took a few pictures. He joked that this was an effective way to fight off drowsiness.
Finding accommodation: the first challenge
Brunei, despite its small size, is a relatively expensive country, comparable to Singapore. Most hotels here are three stars or higher. Only Pusat Belia (Youth Centre), with its bunk beds, offers the cheapest option at 10 Brunei Dollars.
Pusat Belia is a state-run sports center. The problem is, securing affordable accommodation there is no easy feat. My friend in Brunei went there three times, trying to make a reservation for me, but each time he returned without success. The first time he couldn't reach the receptionist. The second time, the receptionist replied, "First come, first serve." He tried again a third time, but the receptionist still wouldn't let him make a reservation.
It was 1 a.m. I was anxious because I hadn't booked a place to stay. Seeing my worried expression, he seemed to understand and reassured me. He drove me to Harmoni Ria. This is where he stayed when he started his business in Brunei. I suddenly realized that if it weren't for this helpful friend, I probably would have slept outside in the freezing cold.
A new day in the Islamic Kingdom.
As the sun rose, he continued his tour of Brunei. Our first stop was The Empire Hotel & Country Club. This is a luxurious 6-star hotel complex, the most famous and prestigious in Brunei, with a full range of entertainment facilities. Considered one of the most upscale hotels in Asia and one of the ten most beautiful hotels in the world, it's situated next to the beach and features a golf course, swimming pool, bank, and cinema. Previously, the hotel served as a residence for the Brunei royal family.
I had the opportunity to visit Masijd Omar Ali Saifuddien again in the morning. The entire mosque complex sits on an artificial lake on the banks of the Brunei River, right next to the floating village of Kampong Ayer.
I felt so small standing before this magnificent cathedral. As a child, I loved reading fairy tales, and I used to dream of having magical powers to transform myself and stand before the splendid and mysterious castles of Persia. Here, I felt like a princess standing before a majestic and splendid castle.
Next, he drove me through the special administrative region. Brunei has many beautiful sights waiting for me to capture. However, my camera battery ran out. He took the battery to find a charging station for me. The battery was charged at a jewelry shop on the banks of the Kampong Ayer River. This shows how enthusiastic and friendly the people of Brunei are. They are always ready to help others. Even in the capital, Bandar, they have a culture of stopping their cars to let tourists cross the road.
Our wandering exploration of Brunei ended perfectly when he took me to the rooftop of a building right in the city center so I could admire the panoramic view of the Kampong Ayer river, the stadium, and the mosques from above.
Every reunion eventually comes to an end. I saw a hint of sadness on his face. But the story of Brunei didn't end there. We weren't just ordinary acquaintances; we became close friends, companions who shared all the ups and downs of life.
What remains in my memory of Brunei is a place of enthusiastic friends, gentle people, and a green, clean, modern, and peaceful country.
Additional information:
+ Currency:
The currency of Brunei is the Brunei Dollar (BND), equivalent in value to the Singapore Dollar (SGD). Brunei Dollar banknotes come in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $50, $100, $500, and $1,000; coins come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, and 50 cents.
1 BND is equivalent to approximately 17,000 VND (depending on the time).
+ Method of transportation:
By air:
- From Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, buy cheap AirAsia tickets for two round-trip flights (Hanoi - Kuala Lumpur or Ho Chi Minh City - Kuala Lumpur). Then, buy two more round-trip flights from Kuala Lumpur to Brunei.
- If you can afford it, you can choose Royal Brunei Airlines, with its royal quality service, for your flight from Kuala Lumpur to Brunei.
Attention:
- At LCCT Malaysia's low-cost airport, when checking the electronic flight schedule board, although AirAsia's ticket shows the route KUL – BWN, the electronic board will show the destination as Bandar Seri Begawan. This is the capital of Brunei.
- There is no airport tax fee upon arrival at Brunei airport, but for flights departing from Brunei, an airport tax of 12 Brunei Dollars or 12 Singapore Dollars is required. Only banknotes are accepted; coins are not.
By road:
- From Miri Airport (Malaysia), buy a taxi to Long Distance Bus Terminal; it costs 26 Ringgit for one taxi ride (Ringgit is the currency of Malaysia).
- At the Miri Long Distance bus station (Malaysia), there is only one PHLS Express ticket counter selling tickets for buses to Brunei. The buses are high-quality, air-conditioned, and the fare is 25 Ringgit. There are two trips per day, at 7:00 AM and 3:45 PM.
- At Bandar bus station (Brunei), only PHLS Express sells tickets from Brunei to Miri (Malaysia), with fares ranging from 18 Brunei Dollars to 18 Singapore Dollars.
+ Getting around in Brunei:
Means of transportation:
Taxis are quite rare in Brunei, with only about 50 in the entire country. A taxi ride from the airport to the city center takes 20 minutes and costs around 25-30 Brunei dollars.
- Buses in Brunei don't have designated stops; just stand on the street and a bus will arrive within 5 to 10 minutes. Tell the driver your destination. The bus fare is 1 Brunei Dollar.
Bus routes:
Traveling to distant locations:
- Brunei International Airport: Bus numbers 23, 24, 34, 35, 36, 38
- Kuala Lurah: bus number 42, 44
- Kuala Belait/Tutong District (via Proposed Rimba Terminal): Bus no. 22, 57
- Kianggeh Jetty: Bus number 39
- Labuan/Kg Menumbok (Kota Kinabalu) via Muara Passenger/Car Ferry Terminal: bus no. 33, 37, 38, 39
Visit the following attractions:
- Brunei Royal Regalia: all buses
- Jame Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque: Bus numbers 01, 20, 22
- Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque: all buses
- Tasek Lama Recreational Park: Bus number 01
- Museum: all buses
- Jerudong Park: Bus number 55
Accommodation:
Hotels priced above 80 Brunei Dollars:
- Julibee Hotel (2 stars): Jubilee Plaza, Jalan Kampong Kianggeh, BS 8111 Bandar Seri Begawan
- The Brunei Hotel (3 stars): 95, Jalan Pemancha, BS8811 Bandar Seri Begawan
- Palm Garden Hotel Brunei (3 stars): Lot 45328, Simpang 88, Kampong Kiulap, BE1518 Bandar Seri Begawan
- Orchid Garden Hotel (4 stars): Lot 31954, Spg 9, Kg. Anggerek Desa, Jalan Berakas, Bandar Seri Begawan
Cheap accommodation for 10 Brunei Dollars:
- Pusat Belia (Youth Center Hostel): Simpang 336-17, Jalan Kebandasan, Bandar Seri Begawan
- Harmoni Ria Guesthouse: 21 Jalan Medewa, Km 7, Jalan Tutong, Bandar Seri Begawan
Notable tourist attractions:
- Istana Nurul Iman – Sultan's Palace: The Sultan's palace, photography is only allowed from the outside gate. This place is only open during Hari Raya (the Islamic New Year, around August each year). After people have eaten and left, they are also given a box of delicious pastries.
- Royal Regalia Building: The royal museum, housing gifts, artifacts belonging to the royal family, and the biography of the current monarch.
- Kampong Ayer: The oldest floating village in Brunei, with a history and culture spanning over 600 years. The village is still home to the Big-nosed Monkey and features simple houses along the river. It has a school, mosque, administrative offices, gas station, and market. Wooden boats are available to take tourists on sightseeing tours.
- Chinese Temple: This temple is located in the city center and is a place of worship for the Chinese community in Brunei.
- The Empire Hotel & Country Club: Brunei's most famous 6-star hotel, spanning 180 hectares with 443 luxurious rooms. It is one of the most upscale hotels in Asia and one of the ten most beautiful hotels in the world.
- Jerudong Park: the largest amusement park in Southeast Asia, located about 10km from Bandar.
- Pasar Malam Gadong: Gadong Night Market sells relatively cheap food and is quite lively.
- Tamu Kianggeh (Open Market): An open-air market selling meat, fish, and vegetables, located right next to the bus station to Miri and serving as a gateway to the city center.
- Billionth Barrel Monument: A monument commemorating the significant event when Brunei exported 1 billion barrels of oil.
Customs and traditions you should know:
Brunei is a relatively strict Muslim country, so it's important to dress respectfully, behave politely in public, and avoid staring at women.
- Thursday and Friday are the two main days of prayer in Muslim countries, so you should avoid visiting mosques on these days.
- When visiting mosques, you will be lent a shawl to wear that covers you from head to toe.
During Ramadan, if you are here, out of respect for Muslims, you should avoid eating or drinking in front of them.
- Do not use your index finger to point; instead, use your right thumb and clench the other four fingers underneath.
When giving a gift or food to a Muslim, you should use your right hand to offer it.
Cuisine:
- Bruneians primarily eat Halal food, with beef, buffalo, chicken, and seafood as the main ingredients, and use many spices such as curry, cinnamon, and star anise.
- Restaurants serving Indian and Chinese cuisine with suitable flavors and affordable prices.
Brunei's specialties include: Grilled fish (a traditional, unique, delicious, nutritious, and unusual dish); Daging Masak Lada Hitam (tender beef stew with potatoes and beans); Udang Sambal Serai Bersantan (fried rice with prawns in coconut milk); Serondeng Pandag (grilled chicken with garlic wrapped in pandan leaves); and Nasi Ayam Goreng Penyet Sari Wangi (grilled chicken with rice).
