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A special journey
My trip to North Korea was a truly unique experience. Much of the information shared through the media about North Korea led people to believe it was a dangerous place. I also felt apprehensive about going there alone, so I decided to seek advice from a friend who had been to North Korea before. It took me three months of planning before I could begin my journey.
The quickest and most convenient way to get to North Korea is to fly to Beijing (China) and then connect to Pyongyang – the capital of North Korea. But because of my passion for exploration, I chose a different, more complicated route to begin my trip. From Ho Chi Minh City, I flew to Guangzhou, then connected to Shenyang, and then transferred to a train. Taking a taxi to Shenyang station, I boarded the 5:30 AM train to Dandong (China), completing the final leg of my journey on the China-North Korea railway line connecting Dandong with Pyongyang.
The train journey from the Chinese border to Pyongyang was a beautiful one, and I witnessed firsthand the lives of the North Korean people. I was fortunate to arrive in North Korea during the rice harvest season. The vast rice fields, stretching for tens of kilometers, glided past the train windows, captivating my attention. The local people may not be wealthy or affluent, but they lead peaceful and serene lives.
At the end of my six-hour train journey, I was greeted by two beautiful North Korean girls as soon as the doors opened for passengers to disembark. What particularly impressed me was that one of them spoke Vietnamese very well, making this place very interesting to me.
Pyongyang: Clean and disciplined
According to North Korean regulations, all tourists are required to purchase a tour through a local travel company, and that company will handle the entire itinerary. The tour company in North Korea assigned three people (a driver and two guides) to take care of the two of us.
Our exploration of North Korea began in Pyongyang. In my eyes, Pyongyang seemed a bit old-fashioned but still exuded a sense of order and high discipline. The streets of Pyongyang were extremely clean; there wasn't a single piece of trash anywhere. Early mornings were bustling. On the main thoroughfares, people were exercising in some places, while children formed groups, beating drums and blowing horns to signal. People hurried from high-rise buildings to the streets and train stations to go to work. Their clothing wasn't world-fashionable, but it was all very polite. However, the city was much quieter at midday.
Kim Il-sung Square is the largest square in Pyongyang and North Korea, and is the venue for major national events such as mass performances, parades, and National Day celebrations. Opposite the square is the Juche Ideology Tower, representing North Korea's socialist ideology. From there, we reached the giant statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il – a place where North Koreans often come to bow, pay respects, or lay flowers in remembrance. Many people come here to bow and lay flowers every day before going to work.
Not far from there is Mansudae Park, where North Koreans frequently take wedding photos. Although they use outdated equipment, their wedding photos are very fun and intimate, often involving multiple generations of the family. They will playfully pose for photos, such as the bride and groom pretending to play tug-of-war with the groom falling into the bride's arms, or both sitting on a swing, strolling around... or somewhat resembling traditional Vietnamese wedding photos from the past. The groom's wedding attire is usually a suit, while the bride wears traditional Hanbok in vibrant colors.
In Pyongyang, we also visited many interesting places such as the Stamp Museum, which exhibits a large number of postage stamps from various periods in North Korea. The Pyongyang Children's Cultural Palace is where children in the capital can enroll in all subjects, from sports, entertainment, music to science and technology, in an environment with better supporting equipment. We also watched a children's concert at this cultural palace with many unique, fun, and colorful performances. Notably, we discovered that North Korea uses the Kim Il-sung calendar, which has a completely different year system from the world calendar.
Panmunjom, the North-South border.
After having lunch in the historic city of Kaesong, in North Hwanghae Province, we continued our journey to Panmunjom – the border separating North and South Korea. Along the way, we passed numerous security checkpoints before reaching the border area. There, after completing formalities with the military personnel, we, along with several other Chinese tourist groups, entered a room where a soldier explained the historical context of the area. We were then transported to the border by a military vehicle.
After driving for about five minutes, crossing barren grasslands, we saw rows of gray and blue buildings constructed on the border between South Korea and North Korea. This is where the Korean War Armistice Agreement was signed in 1953. The building where the agreement was signed still stands today, located within the Korean Demilitarized Zone and considered one of the last remaining relics of the Cold War.
Our tour was quiet and solemn. The soldier acting as our guide was very serious, never joking around during his explanations or conversations. When he heard we were from Vietnam, he changed completely, showing a strange joy and a friendly warmth. He asked many questions about Vietnam and seemed very knowledgeable about the wars that took place during the Vietnam War. As a rule, North Korean soldiers never take photos with all tourists, but this soldier was very enthusiastic and willing to take a commemorative photo with us.
Panmunjom no longer evokes anxiety or fear of war in visitors, but it still gives me a feeling of remembrance of a time of fierce warfare between the two Koreas, and a lingering sadness remains from the unreunification of the two sides. I left Panmunjom with a slight melancholy, because I sensed that the Korean people are very gentle, and they also cherish peace so they can live well.
"Korea's first mountain"
The following days were dedicated to exploring Mount Kumgang (meaning "Diamond" in Vietnamese) – the mountain known as "Korea's most beautiful mountain." Standing at 1,638 meters high, stretching along the northern end of the Taebaek mountain range on the East Coast of the Korean Peninsula, Mount Kumgang boasts unique vegetation, beautiful scenery, and captivating waterfalls. Spiritually, both North and South Koreans consider Mount Kumgang a sacred site and a holy mountain. Today, despite numerous difficulties with immigration procedures, millions of South Koreans still visit Mount Kumgang every year.
Mount Kumgang is located near the border between North and South Korea, so the area is very tightly controlled by the military. I had to pass through many layers of military security before reaching the foot of the mountain. The path up Mount Kumgang presented me with a magnificent natural landscape. My guide told me that the beauty of this place changes with the seasons: spring with a hundred flowers in bloom; summer with romantic clouds drifting over the steep hills and lush greenery; autumn with maple leaves covering the mountain in a vibrant red; and winter with white snow on the summit. And I was truly impressed by the beauty of Kumgang. Not only that, Mount Kumgang also has many famous and sacred temples such as Kwanum Temple, the Myogil-sang Buddha statue, Phyohun Temple, as well as beautiful lakes and natural rock formations.
My mountain climbing trip gave me the opportunity to meet many North Koreans, who were also tourists admiring the natural scenery. It was surprising to meet foreign tourists here who, despite not speaking much to us due to language differences, still showed friendliness and cheerful attitudes. When I gave them some oranges, the two children – the offspring of a North Korean couple – seemed shy and hesitant. It appeared they had few opportunities to meet strangers from outside the country. To my surprise and delight, I saw many Vietnamese products sold in shops along the way up Mount Kumgang, such as Saigon beer, snacks, dried jackfruit, etc.
At the mountaintop, I encountered a group of Koreans dancing and singing, and I joined them. It was a moment I will remember deeply, because we—people from two different countries—had the opportunity to be so close to each other, as if there were no geographical or cultural distance between us.
Epilogue
My trip to North Korea made me realize that the information we receive from the media doesn't entirely match real-life experiences. While there are still many rules tourists should be aware of, North Korea is peaceful, not as dangerous as many people imagine. And I can assure you, exploring North Korea will give you many unforgettable emotions.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
ButVisa:To travel to North Korea, most tourists must travel from China and are required to have a passport and visa or travel permit to enter. North Korean travel companies can assist you with this procedure.
ButTour:According to North Korean government regulations, tourists are not allowed to travel independently in the country and are required to purchase tours from travel companies. In Vietnam, there are many reputable travel companies such as Vietrantour, Saigontourist, Fiditour, Viet Global, etc., that offer all-inclusive tours to North Korea for Vietnamese tourists. The cost for a 5-day, 4-night trip is approximately 33,000,000 - 38,000,000 VND per person.
ButMoney:Visitors are not allowed to use North Korean currency (the North Korean won), so please bring Euros or Chinese Yuan. Remember to bring enough cash for your trip as there are no ATMs or foreign exchange services here.
ButCuisine:It's quite similar to Korean cuisine, but it also has many traditional dishes unique to North Korea. The food here is delicious, and the restaurant service is always enthusiastic and attentive.
ButThings to note:
Most visitors are asked to bow and place flowers before the statue of the late President Kim Il-sung when visiting national historical sites.
Tourists are not allowed to freely chat with all locals.
+ Do not take photos without permission. Do not take pictures freely as you wish; follow the tour guide's instructions. Areas to be aware of include airports, government buildings, military zones, transportation hubs, and locations outside of tourist areas.
+ In the evening, you are not allowed to leave the hotel and must be accompanied by a tour guide wherever you go.
