A tour of Cuba in 10 days.

Old Havana

Cubans mostly walk; walking 4-5 km is commonplace here. When I heard the owner of the casa particular (the Cuban term for homestay) where I stayed say that, I also wanted to "live like a Cuban." My first stop was the vast Plaza de la Revolution, with its highlight being the monument to José Martí and the Government Office, whose facade features steel portraits of Che Guevara and Camilo Ciènfuegos – two national heroes of the Cuban Revolution. This place was once the site of many political demonstrations led by Fidel Castro. Today, the square hosts major national events such as the May Day parade and the July 26th National Revolution Day parade.

Nearby is El Capitolio, whose design reminds me of the U.S. Capitol Building in Washington D.C. El Capitolio served as the Cuban National Assembly before the successful Cuban Revolution in 1959, so many still refer to it as the Cuban National Assembly. Currently, it houses the Cuban Academy of Sciences. In front of El Capitolio, you'll easily find many drivers lined up in the parking lot offering classic car rides. Although they quote 80 CUC (approximately 1.6 million VND) for an hour, you can easily negotiate for less than half the price. If you're not ready to leave immediately, you can walk a short distance further to Havana Vieja – the center of Havana's Old Town.

The hallmark of the Old Havana is its streets paved with evenly spaced, square cobblestones and the vibrant sounds of street performers. Old Havana always has a reason to captivate tourists, from the dilapidated old apartment buildings where generations of Cubans still live to the magnificent Baroque architecture: the Plaza de la Cathedral; the places where Ernest Hemingway once stayed, lived, and drank... Not a single moment went by that I felt bored wandering through Old Havana.

As evening approached, I headed towards Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, the starting point of Havana's famous 8-kilometer-long Malecón coastal boulevard. One of the defining features of this road is the fishing activity of the local Havana men. The rest gather to watch the sunset, as this is considered the best place to see the sun set in Havana.

After spending the next half day admiring the ancient architecture along the road from the Casa Particular to the center of Old Havana, and stopping at La Bodeguita del Medio for a classic Havana Mojito, I took a ferry to the Casablanca district. The highlight here is at the top of the hill, where you can see the house where the national hero Che Guevara once lived and the giant statue of Jesus Christ facing towards Old Havana. Walking along that beautiful road for another 2 km, I arrived at Fort Saint Charles – also known as La Cabaña, built around the 18th century. This is the best spot to admire the panoramic beauty of Havana, from the Old City to the high-rise hotels in the new town.

I enjoy sitting by the fort in the afternoon, watching the sunset with a bottle of Cuban Cristal beer in hand and some chill music playing from my speaker. At this time, Havana is even more magnificent with its streetlights and the glow from the old apartment buildings. And, to mark the end of a peaceful day, they fire a cannon from the nearby San Carlos Fort every night at 9 PM. This is a unique experience you shouldn't miss when visiting Havana.

Viñales is peaceful.

When talking about Cuba, you have to talk about cigars. While wandering around Havana, you'll receive many offers to buy cigars from Cuban locals. About 150 km from Havana is a village in the town of Viñales that grows and produces cigars.

Life in Viñales is quite peaceful, not as bustling as Havana, but that doesn't mean it lacks vibrancy. The rows of houses displaying "Casa Pariticular" signs and the numerous restaurants interspersed throughout show me that Viñales is also an attractive destination that could entice visitors to stay for a few nights.

The most enjoyable way to get to the tobacco plantation was by horseback. With just a few basic instructions from the horseman, I easily hopped onto my horse and spent over an hour traversing the rough dirt roads. When I saw the thatched-roof houses nestled among the green gardens in the distance, I knew I was very close to the tobacco farm.

The farm owner led me to see the tobacco garden and the tobacco drying shed, explaining the harvesting time, drying methods, and flavoring techniques. Then he sat down, placed a worn wooden board on his lap, and began rolling a cigar. In less than five minutes, from a handful of leaves, a beautiful cigar was formed by his skillful and steady hands.

In Cuba, after harvesting, each farm must sell 90% of its produce to the state, keeping only 10% for personal use or to sell to tourists. If you've made the effort to come all the way here, don't hesitate to buy some cigars to take home; they cost only about 1 CUC (approximately 25,000 VND) per cigar, which is 1/3 to 1/4 the price of other branded cigars.

Trinidad is vibrant.

Trinidad is about 320 km from Havana, and it took me almost 8 hours by bus to get there. It was one of the first towns settled by the Spanish and quickly prospered from sugarcane farming, livestock raising, and tobacco production. Much of the colonial architecture, including the palaces and colorful houses, is still well-preserved. This makes Trinidad one of the best-preserved historic towns in North America and earned it UNESCO World Heritage status in 1988.

The town of Trinidad is likened to a wildflower blooming on a mountainside, with its rows of red-tiled houses, colorful walls, and polished cobblestone streets stretching from the slopes of Mount Candelaria all the way to the azure Caribbean coast.

I visited the Museo Nacional de la Lucha Contra Bandidos (National Museum of the War Against the Invaders) – a symbol of Trinidad – to learn about the war against the invaders that took place in the 1960s, and climbed to the top of the bell tower to get a panoramic view of Trinidad from above. Near the museum is Plaza Mayor, a place where many transactions involving sugarcane, sugar, and slaves took place during the 18th and 19th centuries. The square is surrounded by colorful houses belonging to the landowners of that era – most of which are now used as museums.

Next to Plaza Mayor is Trinidad's most vibrant area – The Steps. When you don't know what to do, just come here, order a Mojito, and watch the people go by. It's safe to say that visiting Trinidad without sitting on these steps is a major oversight. There's a live band playing from morning till night. However, after 8 PM, the area transforms into a spectacular outdoor Salsa dance club. Barriers are erected all the way to the last step, and you have to pay 1 CUC (approximately 25,000 VND) for entry. Once inside, you order what you want, but it's guaranteed to be a lot of fun. If possible, take some Salsa or Disco dance classes before going to Cuba; dancing and socializing at The Steps will be a lot of fun.

Despite its rich history and numerous old houses, music can be heard on every street corner. It might come from a loudspeaker used by young Trinidadians gathered on a street corner, or from a tiny house with a massive sound system, and of course, from street acoustic bands.

Trinidad offered me another delightful experience: sitting on a rooftop, sipping chanchara (a signature Trinidadian cocktail made with honey, lime, and rum), eating grilled lobster, and watching the sunset while listening to salsa, disco, and chachacha music played live by a band. It's safe to say that just one afternoon here was enough to experience all of Trinidad!

Another option for panoramic views of Trinidad is to climb to the summit of Loma de Vigia, about 3 km from the center of Trinidad. The climb is fairly easy, just a little steep, but once you reach the top, the view is well worth the effort. This is where Trinidad's communication antenna station is located, guarded by a security guard, and... they sell beer and other drinks to enhance your sunset viewing experience.

Cienfuegos - The Pearl of the South

In 1819, the colonial town of Cienfuegos was founded to become a center for trading sugarcane, tobacco, and coffee. And in 2005, UNESCO recognized the historic Cienfuegos urban center as a World Heritage site, recognizing it as the best example of urban planning from the early 19th-century Spanish Enlightenment.

Unlike many cities in Cuba, I noticed that the streets here are wider and quite tranquil, lacking the bustling corners filled with music. My first stop was José Martí Park, surrounded by several notable architectural landmarks such as the Museo Provincial (Provincial Museum) with its neoclassical architecture, built in 1893 to serve as a casino; the Cienfuegos Cathedral, built in 1833; the Tomas Terry Theatre, built in 1888; and the Ferrer Palace, built in 1918…

Next to José Martí Park is Santa Isabel Street, lined with souvenir stalls, leading directly to the Muelle Real pier. Here you can sit and enjoy a beer or a Mojito at the pub nearby, or simply dip your feet in the water and watch the sunset.

Mornings in Cienfuegos start quite late. Shops and restaurants stay open late. After having Cuban-style apple pie for breakfast, I took a taxi parked nearby to Playa Ranchon beach – one of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean.

Here, you can participate in scuba diving at the nearby Diving Center. There are two dives daily, at 9:00 AM and 11:00 AM. You need to arrive 15 minutes before the dive starts to register and prepare your diving equipment. The waters around Cuba generally don't have a lot of fish but are famous for their beautiful coral reefs.

Varadero seaside city

The last two days of my trip were also spent at the beach. Varadero is known as the largest seaside resort in the Caribbean because it boasts about 20 km of continuous coastline with blue sea, white sand, and golden sunshine. The beaches in Varadero are even more beautiful than those in Cienfuegos; the water is a stunning blue, and the water level is so low that I walked almost 2 meters from the shore and the water was only chest-deep.

Varadero is typical of a seaside city with vibrant nightlife. During the day, it's quite quiet and peaceful, mostly filled with tourists sunbathing or swimming, while others relax on the lush green grass in Josone Park to read. If these activities don't appeal to you, you can book a day trip to Cayo Romero Island for swimming and snorkeling.

Ten days is hardly enough to explore the whole country, but at least I had many experiences and opportunities to learn about Cuban life, from cities to the countryside, to remote towns and even beautiful beaches. On the flight back, the melody and lyrics of the song "Havana" by Cuban-American singer Camila Cabello kept repeating in my mind, as if it were a message I wanted to convey:

“…Havana

Half of my heart is in Havana

He took me back to East Atlanta

Oh, but my heart is in Havana…”

Additional information

Visa:You need to apply for a Cuban visa (also known as a Tourist Card) before flying to Cuba, which costs $20. Remember to carefully check the transit visa information in your planned transit country.

Trip:Cuba is located halfway around the world from Vietnam, close to the US, Mexico, etc., so to get there you need to take at least two flights and transit through another country. From Vietnam, you can fly with a layover in France, Canada, Mexico, etc. I found the cheapest, most convenient route and flight times to be with Aeroflot and a layover in Moscow (Russia). The total journey time is 34 hours, including transit time.

Time:Cuba has a tropical climate with two distinct seasons, so the best time to visit is from December to April, the dry season, when the sky is blue and there is plenty of sunshine. Conversely, the rainy season is from about May to November. Cuba frequently experiences hurricanes from around August to October.

Means of transportation:

In Cuba, most people walk if the distance is around 4-5 km.

- When traveling within the city, you can negotiate the price with taxi drivers as they rarely use meters. Cuba has local buses, but they are always crowded and you have to wait in line for quite a long time.

- For travel between cities, you can choose Viazul bus company as you can book tickets online in advance, or go to the bus station to buy tickets before your trip.

In many smaller cities like Trinidad, Cienfuegos, and Vinales, you can also get around by horse-drawn carriage.

Money:Cuba has two currencies in circulation. The Peso (also known as the CUP or MN - moneda nacional) is the currency used by Cubans for transactions among themselves. The CUC is the currency used by tourists in Cuba. Reference exchange rates: 1 CUC = 23,500 VND, 1 CUC = 25 CUP.

Cuisine:Cuban cuisine is heavily influenced by Spanish flavors and styles. Most Cubans cook at home, so there aren't many street food options. You'll need to eat at state-run restaurants or at Paladar eateries opened by Cubans to supplement their income.

Other notes:

- Internet access is not widespread in Cuba, and 4G SIM cards are not sold to tourists. To access the internet, you need to go to a Wi-Fi hotspot in the city you visit, buy a prepaid card, and log in to use it.

- Keep plenty of 1 CUC coins on hand to tip whenever you eat at restaurants, go to pubs, or when you have luggage on the bus, etc.

Be wary of offers to buy cigars from locals.

Estimated cost:A round-trip plane ticket costs around $1,500, and the average daily living expense is about $45.

Vinh Le