Autumn paradise in Hunza Valley

Heaven is real

Pakistan means “pure land” in Urdu and Persian. The country lies at the crossroads of South Asia, Central Asia and the Middle East. In ancient times, Pakistan was a crossroads of Vedic, Persian, Indo-Greek, Turko-Mongol and Islamic cultures. Today, Pakistan is known for its dangerous, war-torn, and violent regions. In fact, only the southern and western regions (bordering Iran or Afghanistan) are unsafe. The northern part, along the Karakoram Highway and especially the Hunza Valley in Gilgit-Baltistan, which is under the control of the Pakistani government, is very safe for tourists.

I spent a week on the Karakoram Highway, passing through many small, peaceful villages nestled under the mountains. In autumn, the Hunza Valley is as beautiful as a painting with many warm colors but no less lyrical and romantic. The ancient apricot trees are bright yellow on the stone fences. The apple trees have lost most of their leaves, leaving only a few yellow and red fruits on their branches. The golden pumpkins are rolling on the roofs. The pretty children and the friendly women have indescribable smiles. The carpet of yellow leaves is scattered on the ground, the wild red berry bushes grow on both sides of the road...

I always remember the moment of waiting for the rays of sunlight to begin to spread from the snowy mountain tops, gradually spreading, illuminating the entire hilly area. The whole valley seemed to light up in the early morning sun, the scene seemed to shed its gloomy appearance at night to put on the most beautiful and brilliant coat of the day. The yellow and red of the leaves seemed to be even more brilliant against the gray background of the mountains, the white of the snow under the early morning sunlight. Baltit Fort proudly and majestically appeared under the morning sun. Over 700 years old and the palace of the emir of ancient Hunza, Baltit Fort was built on a wonderful strategic location in the Hunza-Nagar valley, located on the highest hill, leaning against a mountain with a wide view of the entire valley. I don't know how many times I just exclaimed: "Oh, so beautiful!".

These moments are truly precious. I just want time to stop right here and right now. I wish that when I grow old, I will be able to witness all four seasons in a year.

If the sunrise in Karimabad made me exclaim, then coming to Hoper Valley, I felt like I was lost in a fairyland, lost in paradise. I could only open my mouth and look at it, speechless because the scenery was so beautiful. Hoper Valley consists of 7 prosperous villages, nestled in the valley and surrounded by mountains. This place is truly a perfect picture of color.

Hoper Valley or also known as Hopar, is a part of Nagar Valley located at an altitude of about 2,438 m and is also one of the most beautiful valleys of Hunza. Around Hopar Valley there are many famous places such as Rush Lake, Bwaltar Peak, Kapldongs, Shaltar Peak, Hispar Muztagh, Spantik, Barpu, Bualtar and the eternal glacier.

The road to Hoper Valley was rocky and rocky so I had to use a special Jeep. The car passed many curves of yellow and red leaves, and ancient apricot gardens that were bright yellow. The green, red, purple, and yellow bushes on the gray-white mountain slopes, in many places even flowing down the mountain like a brilliant stream. Stopping at a corner of a small village, all we wanted to do was lie down on the grass under the ancient apricot trees, take a nap, and enjoy these peaceful and comfortable moments forever.

The whole Hunza Valley can be said to be a giant fruit garden. I imagine that in March and April it is the season of apricot blossoms; from July to September the apricots are ripe; red apples, green apples, cherries are everywhere… If this place is not paradise, then what else is it?

Land of hospitality

More than 90% of Hunza's residents are Shia Ismaili Muslims - the most moderate sect of Islam. They are not strict extremists, do not force women to cover from head to toe, women and men are equal. In particular, girls here are highly respected. Shia has the most liberal and innovative ideology of Islam, so Hunza highly values ​​education. Although Hunza Valley is harsh and the terrain is difficult, the literacy rate in Hunza is 77%, while this rate in the whole of Pakistan is only 58%. In some towns in Hunza Valley such as Karimabad, Passu... most young people under 30 years old can read and write and can communicate well in English. The first primary school in Hunza was founded in 1913 by the British in India. Up to now, education in Hunza can be said to be the dream of many localities.

In Hunza, everyone exudes friendliness, gentleness, and amiability. Whenever I walk on the road, I always receive smiles and warm greetings. Children chatter and ask me questions in English, their lovely smiles melt my heart. When I wandered in the pretty villages, a family invited me into their home to visit. They offered me a lot of fruits, made me tea, and chatted with me like old friends who had just met again. I was really touched because I was just an unfamiliar traveler passing through Hunza for a few short days, but I was welcomed very warmly and sincerely.

The days in Hunza Valley passed like a dream that I never wanted to wake up from. The peaceful, romantic scenery and the affection of the Pakistani people made me reluctant to leave. On the last day before saying goodbye, I quietly tried to take in all the scenery in my mind, looking at the Passu Cones mountain range that was still standing proudly, which I had only seen in pictures before. The space was silent, only the voices of people calling each other in the village. I think this land will haunt me for a long time.

More information:

Visa:You can apply for Evisa Pakistan through the website https://visa.nadra.gov.pk/. You need to prepare a photo, scan of your passport, and an invitation letter (available from travel agencies) to apply for an evisa with a fee of 25 USD.

Pakistan tourist visa can also be applied for at the Pakistan Embassy in Hanoi. Documents required include: passport, 2 portrait photos, employment certificate, financial proof, travel insurance and invitation letter from Pakistan.

Trip:There are no direct flights from Vietnam to Pakistan. You will have to transit in a third country such as Malaysia, Thailand, China... Round-trip ticket prices range from 500 to 800 USD, depending on the time.

Transportation:

Public buses, taxis, and rickshaws are quite popular in big cities like Islamabad. To travel between provinces, there are long-distance buses, planes, etc. If you are traveling in a group, the best way is to rent a 12-24 seater car with a private tour guide to ensure health and safety.

From Islamabad, there are public buses by NATCO via Chilas, Karimabad to Sost at a cost of around 2,000 PKR/person. Tickets can be purchased at Rawalpindi bus station. To save time, you can fly from Islamabad to Giglit or Skardu at a cost of around 100-130 USD/way.

Money:The currency in circulation in Pakistan is Pakistan Rupees (PKR). The exchange rate between USD and PKR is 1 USD = 100 PKR, which is quite easy to remember. However, there are not many places in Pakistan where you can withdraw money from a credit card, so it is best to carry cash.

Cuisine:There are many similarities with India and other South Asian countries such as the use of many spices, curries and a lot of oil. Most dishes are made from lamb, beef, chicken. Chai - a type of milk tea - is as popular as Vietnamese iced/hot tea. In particular, Pakistan is a paradise of delicious fruits such as apricots, apples, persimmons, pomegranates... at surprisingly cheap prices.

Other notes:

- There are many checkpoints along the way, you will have to stop to register. So, when traveling to Pakistan, always carry your passport, keep a few copies of your passport and visa with you.

- Pakistani people are very hospitable and friendly but in some areas women and children do not want to be photographed. So before taking a photo, ask them first.

- Some places still don't have grid electricity and have to use generators, so power outages are quite normal here.

Estimated costs:About 1,000 USD/person for a 7-day, 6-night trip; of which, about 500 USD for round-trip airfare, 400 USD for a land tour, about 100 USD for food and other expenses. The cost in Hunza is quite cheap, the service is not very developed. If you travel in a large group, buy a land tour including car fare, food, driver and a local English-speaking guide with prices ranging from 40-50 USD/day/person. If you travel by public transport, pay for your own food and accommodation, you can easily travel in Pakistan for less than 20 USD/day, sleep in a private room and eat 3 meals outside.

Ngoc Tran