Autumn in paradise in Hunza Valley

Paradise is real.

Pakistan means "pure land" in Urdu and Persian. The country lies at the crossroads of South Asia, Central Asia, and the Middle East. In ancient times, Pakistan was a melting pot of Vedic, Persian, Indo-Greek, Turk-Mongolian, and Islamic cultures. Today, Pakistan is known for its dangers, wars, and violence. However, in reality, only the south and west (bordering Iran or Afghanistan) are unsafe. The northern part, along the Karakoram Highway and especially the Hunza Valley in Gilgit-Baltistan, which is under the control of the Pakistani government, is very safe for tourists.

I spent a week traveling along the Karakoram Highway, passing through countless peaceful little villages nestled in the mountains. In autumn, the entire Hunza Valley is like a painting, with many warm colors, yet also poetic and romantic. Ancient apricot trees blaze with golden hues on the stone fences. Apple trees have shed almost all their leaves, leaving only clusters of yellow and red fruit on their branches. Bright yellow pumpkins roll around on the rooftops. Pretty children and friendly women with indescribably beautiful smiles fill the air. A carpet of golden leaves covers the ground, and clumps of vibrant red wild berries grow abundantly along the roadside…

I will always remember the moment when the first rays of sunlight began to spread from the snow-capped mountain peaks, illuminating the entire hillside. The whole valley seemed to brighten in the early morning sun, shedding its gloomy appearance from the night to don its most beautiful and vibrant attire of the day. The yellow and red of the leaves seemed even more brilliant against the gray of the mountains and the white of the snow under the early morning sun. Baltit Fort, majestic and imposing, emerged in the morning light. Over 700 years old and the palace of the former emir of Hunza, Baltit Fort was built on a superb strategic location in the Hunza-Nagar valley, atop the highest hill, nestled against a mountain with a panoramic view of the entire valley. I don't know how many times I could only exclaim, "Oh, it's so beautiful!"

These moments are truly priceless. I just wish time would stop right here and now. I long for the day I grow old, to be here, witnessing all four seasons of the year.

If the sunrise in Karimabad had already left me in awe, then arriving in Hoper Valley was like stepping into a fairytale, a true paradise. I was left speechless, my mouth agape, because the scenery was so breathtaking. Hoper Valley comprises seven prosperous villages nestled in the valley, surrounded by towering mountains. It truly is a magnificent tapestry of colors.

The Hoper Valley, also known as Hopar, is part of the Nagar Valley, situated at an altitude of approximately 2,438 meters, and is one of the most beautiful valleys in Hunza. Surrounding the Hopar Valley are many famous landmarks such as Rush Lake, Bwaltar Peak, Kapldongs, Shaltar Peak, Hispar Muztagh, Spantik, Barpu, Bualtar, and permanent glaciers.

The road to Hoper Valley was rough and rocky, so I had to travel by specialized Jeep. The vehicle glided past countless bends covered in golden and red leaves, and ancient apricot orchards ablaze with yellow. Green, red, purple, and yellow bushes clung to the gray-white slopes, in many places cascading down the mountain like a vibrant stream. Stopping at a corner of a small village, we all just wanted to lie down on the grass under the ancient apricot trees, take a nap, and savor these peaceful and relaxing moments forever.

The entire Hunza Valley could be described as a giant orchard. I imagine the apricot blossoms in March and April; the apricots ripening to a golden yellow from July to September; red apples, green apples, and cherries hanging everywhere… If this place isn't paradise, then what is?

A hospitable land

Over 90% of Hunza's inhabitants are Shia Ismaili Muslims – the most moderate branch of Islam. They are not extremist or strict; they do not require women to cover themselves from head to toe, and women and men are treated equally. Girls are especially highly valued here. The Shia sect has the most liberal and innovative ideas in Islam, so Hunza places great importance on education. Despite the harsh and rugged terrain of the Hunza Valley, the literacy rate is 77%, while the rate for the rest of Pakistan is only 58%. In some towns within the Hunza Valley, such as Karimabad and Passu, most young people under 30 are literate and can communicate well in English. The first primary school in Hunza was established in 1913 by British settlers in India. To this day, education in Hunza is a dream for many other regions.

In Hunza, everyone exudes a friendly, kind, and amiable aura. Everywhere I went, I was greeted with warm smiles and friendly welcomes. Children chattered excitedly, asking me questions in English, their adorable smiles melting my heart. As I wandered through the charming villages, a family invited me into their home. They offered me plenty of fruit, made me tea, and chatted with me like old friends. I was truly touched, as I was just a stranger passing through Hunza for a few short days, yet I received such a warm and sincere welcome.

My days in Hunza Valley passed like a dream I never wanted to wake from. The peaceful, romantic scenery and the warmth of the Pakistani people captivated me, making me reluctant to leave. On my last day before parting ways, I quietly tried to absorb the landscape, gazing at the majestic Passu Cones mountain range, which I had only seen in photographs before. The silence was broken only by the gentle calls of people in the village. I think this place will haunt me for a long time to come.

Additional information:

Visa:You can apply for a Pakistan Evisa through the website https://visa.nadra.gov.pk/. You will need to prepare a passport photo, a scanned copy of your passport, and an invitation letter (which can be purchased from travel agencies) to apply for the evisa, with a fee of 25 USD.

A Pakistan tourist visa can also be applied for at the Pakistani Embassy in Hanoi. Required documents include: passport, two passport-sized photos, proof of employment, proof of financial means, travel insurance, and an invitation letter from Pakistan.

Trip:There are no direct flights from Vietnam to Pakistan. You will have to transit through a third country such as Malaysia, Thailand, China, etc. Round-trip airfare ranges from approximately 500 to 800 USD, depending on the time of year.

Means of transportation:

Public buses, taxis, and rickshaws are quite common in large cities like Islamabad. For inter-provincial travel, there are long-distance buses and airplanes. If you're traveling in a group, the best option is to rent a 12-24 seater vehicle with a private guide to ensure your health and safety.

From Islamabad, there are public buses operated by NATCO that go through Chilas and Karimabad all the way to Sost for about 2,000 PKR per person. Tickets can be purchased at the Rawalpindi bus station. To save time, you can fly from Islamabad to Giglit or Skardu for about 100-130 USD per way.

Money:The currency in circulation in Pakistan is the Pakistani Rupee (PKR). The exchange rate between USD and PKR is 1 USD = 100 PKR, which is quite easy to remember. However, there aren't many places in Pakistan where you can withdraw cash from a credit card, so the best option is to carry cash.

Cuisine:Pakistan shares many similarities with India and other South Asian countries, such as the extensive use of spices, curry, and oil. Most dishes are made with lamb, beef, or chicken. Chai – a type of milk tea – is as popular as iced or hot tea in Vietnam. Notably, Pakistan is a paradise for delicious fruits like apricots, apples, persimmons, and pomegranates, all at surprisingly low prices.

Other notes:

- There are many checkpoints along the way, and you will have to stop to register. Therefore, when traveling in Pakistan, always carry your passport, and keep several copies of your passport and visa with you.

Pakistani people are very hospitable and friendly, but in some areas, women and children do not want to be photographed. So, before taking pictures, please ask their permission first.

- Some areas still lack grid electricity and rely on generators, so power outages are quite common here.

Estimated cost:Approximately $1,000 per person for a 7-day, 6-night trip; this includes about $500 for round-trip airfare, $400 for the land tour, and about $100 for food and other expenses. Costs in Hunza are relatively cheap, although services aren't very developed. If you're traveling in a large group, consider purchasing a land tour that includes transportation, meals, a driver, and a local English-speaking guide, costing between $40-50 per day per person. If you travel independently using public transport and cover your own food and accommodation costs, you can easily travel in Pakistan for under $20 per day, sleeping in a private room and eating three meals out.

Ngoc Tran