VI
EN
Text and photos:Le Thang
Unlike other places in Myanmar I've visited, Yangon is a diverse and unique city. My first impression of Yangon was its architecture and its people. The blend of Buddhist culture and capitalist civilization, brought by the British during their rule, has created a strange city, old yet modern. I saw diverse architectural styles here. The religious diversity, including Buddhism, Islam, and Christianity, along with the buildings and cultural aspects intertwined with the lives of the local people, is remarkable.
The blend of Buddhist culture and capitalist civilization, brought by the British during their rule, has created a city that is both strange and ancient, yet also full of novelty.
The hotel where I stayed was on an old street in Downtown Yangon, on a walking route described in a travel guide. I began exploring Yangon along that route. Yangon mornings were strangely peaceful; pigeons were everywhere, flocks descending onto the streets to eat the food locals gave them. When a car passed, the birds would fly up again, filling the old sky.
The neighborhoods have a very unusual naming convention; each parallel street is numbered sequentially, making it easy to remember where to go. Markets are everywhere, offering a wide variety of everyday goods and, especially, street food and drinks. I walked the entire route on a bright, sunny Yangon morning, stopping at a square next to the Sule Pagoda. This is the administrative center, with buildings retaining their original British architecture, along with other distinctive structures.
Heading downstream, past well-preserved buildings, I reached the ferry terminal to the suburbs. I bought a ticket to cross the river; it was a little strange that the tourist fare was 20 times higher than for locals, but still very cheap compared to transportation services in Vietnam. More importantly, I got to travel amidst a seagull flock, and see a peaceful, simple village not far from a huge city.
Yangon's transportation system is also considered a unique feature of this historically rich city. Besides the colorful modes of transport, the British left behind a legacy: the inner-city railway that circles the city. Yangon residents still consider it an efficient means of transportation, especially for the working class, while tourists find it an ideal way to experience the daily life of the locals. Like ferry tickets, train tickets for tourists are slightly more expensive. A journey like this, circling Yangon's daily life, takes about four hours.
I'm heading to the Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon's architectural masterpiece, a structure I saw the moment I arrived. Almost every Myanmar person dreams of making a pilgrimage to this legendary pagoda, the thousand-year-old pride of Yangon and the entire country. The golden spire of Shwedagon is 99 meters high, surrounded by 1,000 smaller pagodas with vibrant and unique architectural features. I heard that the pagoda is adorned with a total of 90 tons of gold and tens of thousands of diamonds and precious stones… This is truly an amazing feat, almost unimaginable.
I arrived at the Golden Pagoda in the late afternoon, wandering around and taking photos until my arms and legs ached, until sunset. Even with the pagoda illuminated by golden lights, I still hadn't explored all the spaces inside. Pilgrims had already filled the area around the main tower, praying. I was engrossed in photographing a group of Buddhists lighting candles when I was startled by a strange voice saying, "Hey, what are you taking pictures of!?" Clearly, I was in Myanmar. I snapped back to reality, put down my camera, and looked up. I was met with the gentle smiles of monks from Vietnam who had come on pilgrimage. They recognized me as a "fellow countryman," asked where I was from, and my answer was "Hanoi." It was wonderful to unexpectedly meet someone from my homeland in such a magical place.
Bidding farewell to the monks, I left Shwedagon; the clock had already struck 9 p.m. Yangon was strangely peaceful at night; the bustling city of the day seemed to be asleep, the streets were deserted, and only occasionally did a car whiz by.
Yangon was the former capital of Myanmar, from 2006 onwards. Along with the ancient streets of Downtown, Yangon boasts skyscrapers and vast commercial areas. I'm in Yangon, on my last day, after wandering around and shopping for souvenirs at the famous Bogyoke Aung market, where tourists can buy everything Myanmar has to offer, from industrial products and antique colonial-era items to exquisite handicrafts produced throughout the country.
Myanmar also has another side, with a modern feel like other young cities. These are the skyscrapers, and in Yangon, often luxurious bars with stunning views. Of course, I couldn't miss the opportunity to enjoy a drink and admire the city from such a spot. I spent my last afternoon on the rooftop of Yangon's tallest building. From there, you could see every corner of the city. It was a special feeling to be able to see everything from such a vantage point; I could see every neighborhood, every temple, the river, the harbor. I even relived the routes I had traveled during my days of wandering and exploring Yangon.
The sun gradually set, its rays fading from the old buildings, the golden Sule Pagoda rising high against the deep purple backdrop of Downtown. On this side, the Shwedagon Pagoda gleamed in the afternoon light, then shone brightly through the light mist on the horizon. Goodbye Yangon, goodbye Myanmar, see you again on another journey.
Additional information:
+ Means of transport:
There are several options for traveling to Yangon by air:
- Fly with Vietnam Airlines from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
- Flying with Air Asia, with a layover in Bangkok.
+ Transportation:
- Traveling to Yangon from Inle, Mandalay, Bagan, etc., by bus costs an average of 20 USD, equivalent to 22,000 Kyat.
- Getting around the city by taxi costs approximately 350-400 Kyat, equivalent to 7,000-8,000 VND.
- Get around the city using public transportation, such as buses, motorized rickshaws, tricycles, and various types of boats and ferries.
+ Currency: 100 USD is equivalent to approximately 9,000 Kyat. USD can be used in Myanmar, but it must be new and undamaged. Lower denomination USD bills have lower value.
+ Accommodation:
- Hotels and guesthouses in Yangon are quite expensive compared to Vietnam, with the cheapest costing around 30-40 USD per night, equivalent to 27,000-35,000 Kyat.
- Luxury hotels in Yangon can cost around $1,000 per night, equivalent to 9,000 Kyat.
+ Cuisine:
There are all kinds of restaurants in Yangon, from upscale to budget-friendly, from European to Asian cuisine…
Yangon's street food is quite interesting, especially in the small markets in Downtown.
+ Shopping: Bogyoke Aung Market in Yangon has all kinds of Myanmar products at very cheap prices, but don't forget to bargain.
