Going to the Christmas market on the last day of the year.

Christmas markets then and now

Christmas markets have a tradition and history originating in Germany during the late Middle Ages, then spreading throughout Central Europe to German-speaking countries or those with close cultural, political, and historical ties to Germany. They later spread to Roman Empires, and eventually throughout Europe. Although originally called Christkindlmarkt in German, literally meaning "Christ's Market" in English, Christmas markets have little religious significance and are simply outdoor markets, usually in central squares or market plazas, selling food, cinnamon liqueur, and other Christmas-related goods.

Traditionally, Christmas markets would open during the first Advent season. Advent encompasses the four Sundays before Christmas and is often marked by a candle. Each week, people would light a candle, one after another, for the four weekends, and look forward to Christmas. Nowadays, many famous Christmas markets begin opening around mid-November each year to attract more tourists. However, smaller markets in remote rural areas and other corners of Europe still maintain the tradition of opening during the first week of Advent.

A traditional Christmas market, besides being held in a large square with wooden stalls and a towering Christmas tree in the middle, would certainly be incomplete without a nativity scene depicting the birthplace of the infant Jesus, a few stalls selling candied roasted almonds, some stalls selling carved and painted wooden nutcrackers in various shapes, and of course, a stall selling glühwein – the classic Christmas drink in cold climates.

Nowadays, modern Christmas markets often feature a carousel decorated with sparkling yellow lights, sometimes balloon and stuffed animal stalls to attract children, or a row of arcade games where people can test their dexterity in grabbing prizes or try their luck at the jackpot. Besides locals strolling through the market to shop, there are also groups of tourists eagerly taking selfies with a smiling Santa Claus. That's what modern Christmas markets are like – full of fun, vibrant colors, and a range of emotions in an increasingly interconnected world.

Shopping at home

Unlike most people, I don't usually travel during the winter to visit other Christmas markets. This is somewhat similar to how Vietnamese people don't travel to other provinces or cities during the days leading up to Tet (Lunar New Year) to visit Tet markets. Tet markets, or Christmas markets, always evoke a deep sense of nostalgia for home, especially for those living abroad. To ease that longing, I started a habit of strolling through the Christmas markets in Oslo, the capital, which is only a little over 30 minutes by train from where I live in the suburbs.

Large European cities often have several Christmas markets scattered throughout the city. Oslo is no exception. But I only visited one market located right on the main road, Karl Johans Gate, which leads directly to the King's Palace at the end of the street. By going that way, I could easily notice the changes in the stalls, the decorations, and sometimes even unexpectedly encounter familiar faces from the previous Christmas.

The market is located in a small square next to an artificial lake and has a rather amusing name: "Spikersuppa" (Spikersuppa). This name originates from a Norwegian folk tale about a poor woman who went around announcing that she was cooking a pot of nail soup. People were curious and asked to try some. The poor woman said she was happy to share, but anyone who wanted to could contribute some potatoes, carrots, cabbage, etc. At the end of her tour, the poor woman had enough ingredients to cook a hearty meal. The folk tale accurately reflects the poverty of the Norwegian people at that time, before oil was discovered off the coast of Norway!

In the summer, "The Nail Soup Lake" is the ideal place for city dwellers to cool off. In the winter, the lake freezes over, transforming into an outdoor ice rink for everyone. Couples glide hand-in-hand on the ice. Children giggle with delight, even those unfamiliar with the craft needing adult guidance. The teenagers are the most enthusiastic, showcasing their graceful gliding and spinning skills, rivaling professional athletes. Occasionally, some children play a game of "dragon and snake" ice skating; if one loses their balance, the whole group tumbles, yet they still burst into laughter.

A Christmas market in Norway would probably be just like any other in Europe if it weren't for three things that set it apart: reindeer, elves, and Christmas trees. Reindeer are closely associated with Santa Claus and the snowy landscape. While many other Christmas markets sell products made from reindeer fur or antlers, the Christmas market in Norway even has a reindeer food stall offering two famous dishes that many Norwegians eagerly await Christmas to enjoy: reindeer steak and reindeer hamburger!

Reindeer meat is classified as game meat, so it's usually very tough and has a strong, distinctive smell; those unfamiliar with it may find it difficult to appreciate its deliciousness. Basically, the preparation of reindeer meat is similar to beef or other red meats. However, in terms of flavor, juniper berries are essential for marinating the meat, and cranberry jam (lingonberry jam) is indispensable to reduce the richness of the meat, potatoes, and sauce. Without juniper berries and lingonberry jam, reindeer meat loses half its appeal! And because these two fruits aren't readily available everywhere, reindeer dishes in Norway, and Northern Europe in general, have a unique flavor that's hard to find anywhere else or at any other famous Christmas market.

Besides reindeer, trolls are another iconic image of Norway. In ancient Norse mythology, trolls are a race of dwarves who lived in deep caves, high mountains, and remote areas in western Norway, where the land was fragmented by fjords. Snow-capped mountains or pine forests were often the trolls' favorite dwelling places, separating them from the world of humans and gods. Today, in modern Norwegian, many place names and nouns still have the element "troll" added to them to indicate their difficulty or mischievousness. The famous "Trolltunga" mountain trail in western Norway is one example, with its sharp, protruding rock formations likened to the tongue of a troll; or the "Trollstigen" pass – the "devil's pass" – with its 11 extremely sharp curves, also carries a similar meaning.

But the Trolls at the Norwegian Christmas market are different, with their gap-toothed, grinning faces, the old Troll reading a newspaper, the old Troll knitting next to a mischievous cat, the mother Troll in a red apron beside a table overflowing with meat and fish, and the father Troll with a Viking shield and horned helmet. For a long time now, the image of Trolls has ceased to be associated with spooky stories of princesses abducted by demons, and instead, we see "reformed" Trolls who are friendly to humans and… the wallets of tourists.

The final reason I always go to the Christmas market is to buy decorations for my Christmas tree. Like the apricot and peach blossoms during the Vietnamese Lunar New Year, the Christmas tree is indispensable in countries with a Christian tradition. Although people in Northern Europe are becoming increasingly atheistic today, the old traditions and customs passed down from our parents and grandparents are hard to abandon. Decorating the Christmas tree is one of them.

I started buying real pine trees from a truck parked near the train station where I live. Buying a real pine tree is actually much more environmentally friendly than buying a fake one made of plastic. The amount of water, electricity, and energy used to create a fake tree, plus the carbon dioxide emissions from the processing plant, are many times higher than cutting down a real pine tree – the kind specifically grown for Christmas trees – and planting one or more new ones. And did you know that after each season when pine cones fall, many elderly people gather the fallen cones from the streets or yards, wait for the pine needles to fall out, then take them into the forest and scatter them on moist soil, sowing a new crop of pines for the northern forests?

The freshly bought Christmas tree is placed in a tray of water, secured with screws to keep it upright. Once the tree is in place, everyone in the family begins decorating. Children are usually given plastic baubles or other non-breakable items to decorate the base near the trunk. Adults typically string tinsel on the tree and place twinkling lights outside the windows. Finally, everyone eagerly competes to place the most dazzling decoration on top of the tree, usually a star, a red bow, or an angel figurine. By the time the decorating is complete and the first presents are carefully placed under the tree, the Christmas spirit has filled every home and every street in the city.

To prepare for my sixth Christmas abroad, I feel like a child again, going to the Tet flower market with my grandmother, eagerly waiting for the small truck carrying fresh pine trees still smelling of resin to arrive in front of the train station, eagerly anticipating going to the "Nail Soup" Christmas market with my small family on the second Sunday of Advent, and then eagerly decorating the new Christmas tree together with sparkling ornaments.

And another joyful Christmas season is almost here.

Ngoc Quyen