"That's gold, that's copper too
There are morning glory flowers, there are West Lake lotuses...”
Lotus tea is not only a drink, but also an art, a quintessential cultural practice of Hanoi people. The magical blend of the light, sweet aftertaste of green tea and the pure, gentle fragrance of lotus has created a "specialty" imbued with the soul of the capital.
In the past, Hanoi families often hand-picked lotus tea to give as gifts to entertain guests during the traditional Tet holiday. Now, lotus tea has become a symbol, a unique gift that encapsulates the flavor and spirit of Hanoi, sought after not only domestically but also internationally.
It is no coincidence that Hanoi lotus tea is known as the number one tea.
Cultural quintessence imbued with ancient scent
No one knows exactly when the art of lotus tea perfuming took root and became an indispensable part of Hanoian culture. The elders often say that the West Lake area, especially Tay Ho district, used to be a vast lotus garden. It was from these vast lotus ponds, along with the ingenuity of the people, especially those living in wards such as Quang An and Nhat Tan, that the art of lotus tea perfuming was formed and developed. They chose the famous Thai Nguyen green tea to combine with the hundred-leaf lotus (also known as hundred-petal lotus) typical of West Lake, thereby giving birth to the "Thien co de nhat tra" called Ho Tay lotus tea or Tay Ho lotus tea.
To make 1kg, the artisan needs 1000 lotus flowers and must go through 7 times of marinating with a very elaborate and meticulous process.
Although there are many places that make lotus tea today, no region can recreate the unique and distinctive flavor of West Lake lotus tea. It seems that all the quintessence of the earth, the climate, the water source and the soul of Hanoians have converged in each tea leaf and each lotus scent of this land.
West Lake lotus tea is a blend of the rich flavor of Tan Cuong tea (Thai Nguyen) with the fragrant aroma of Bach Diep lotus rice. Through the skillful hands of the artisans, a delicious and elegant tea has been created.
Around June, when the lotus ponds begin to bloom, it is also the time when the lotus tea artisan families in Quang An ward, Nhat Tan enter their busiest season. According to the sharing of long-time artisans, to create a batch of premium West Lake lotus tea, requires a huge investment of time and effort. The lotus chosen to infuse the tea must be the lotus flowers grown in Quang Ba village pond, with the characteristics of light pink petals and buds just blooming to ensure the most intense aroma.
Lotus flowers are picked early in the morning, when there is still dew, to ensure freshness and preserve the lotus fragrance.
The lotus tea brewing process is a series of meticulous steps. The lotus is picked early in the morning, when the flowers are still fresh and covered with dew, then brought back, each layer of lotus petal is peeled off to get the lotus rice - the part that is likened to a "fragrance bag" containing the essence of the flower. Getting the lotus rice is the most difficult step, requiring quickness and extreme dexterity so that the lotus rice does not break, losing its precious aroma.
Extracting lotus rice is the most difficult step. The artisan must be skillful and quick-eyed so that the rice does not break and retains the characteristic aroma of lotus.
On average, it takes 1,000 to 1,400 lotus flowers to infuse one kilogram of tea using the traditional method. Each batch of tea is sprinkled with a layer of lotus rice, then steeped for about two days and then dried. This infusion and drying process is repeated 5 to 7 times, lasting from one to two weeks, to ensure the lotus fragrance permeates each strand of tea, creating a premium drink with a long-lasting flavor.
To ensure quality, the artisan only steeps the tea in the morning.
The elegance of Hanoi people
Because of the elaborate and complex processing method, West Lake lotus tea is considered one of the most expensive teas on the market. A kilogram of premium lotus tea can cost up to 7-10 million VND, while tea directly scented in lotus flowers (also known as "quick" lotus tea) is more affordable, ranging from 30-50 thousand VND/flower, equivalent to 3-5 million VND/kg. However, due to the manual and time-consuming method, the quantity of traditional lotus tea is not much, becoming a rare gift. "Quick" scented tea is more abundant and more accessible on the market.
To infuse lotus tea, you must do it 7 times. One layer of rice is followed by one layer of tea. After infusing the tea, it is dried.
Drinking lotus tea is also an art, requiring sophistication and delicacy as the way it is created. The ancients often used rainwater or morning dew on lotus leaves to make tea, showing absolute respect for nature. When enjoying tea, they often sat under the quiet porch, watching the vast green lotus pond with the wind, to fully feel the flavor and space.
Because of the meticulousness and meticulousness in the production process, all of which are done by hand, the quantity of lotus tea produced each year is not much. The price of lotus tea is therefore also very high in the market and often has to be ordered early.
Nowadays, although the living space has changed a lot, tea connoisseurs still maintain the basic principles. The water used to brew tea is usually tap water that has been left to settle for a day and a night to let it evaporate. The water used to boil tea must be moderate, with just a little bit of fish, and the best teapot to brew tea is a porcelain one to preserve the pure flavor. A pot of lotus tea that is properly infused and brewed will bring a sweet, slightly astringent taste, and the lotus scent will gradually deepen in the palate, spreading in a charming way.
Lotus tea making is a seasonal profession and is complicated and labor-intensive, so currently in Hanoi the number of artisans dedicated to this profession can be counted on the fingers of one hand.
That's why, even though it has the most expensive price on the market, not everyone with money has the "fate" to enjoy this premium tea, considered "the best tea".
During holidays, special occasions or simply the first days of summer, there is nothing more wonderful than gathering with family and friends, raising a cup of lotus tea. Sipping tea, feeling the subtlety and fragrance in each drop, and enjoying the scent of flowers in the spring weather, people suddenly feel relaxed, happy and warm. Lotus tea is not only a drink, but also a cultural experience, a thread connecting people with the beautiful traditional values of the thousand-year-old Thang Long land.
