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Man proposes, God disposes.
It wasn't until I arrived in Kyoto that I started researching how to get to Ine Village. I'd always thought that getting around tourist attractions in Japan was convenient and quick, but this time it was different. Ine is about 130 km from the center of Kyoto, but traveling by public transport can take over four hours. Day tours only last about 40 minutes – a superficial experience I didn't enjoy. At one point, given the long distance and the limited time available, I even considered giving up.
Luckily, a friend of mine was also in Kyoto at that time. We decided to hire a private car driven by a Vietnamese driver to get to Ine. The travel time was reduced to just over two hours, the cost was quite reasonable, and most importantly, we could stay in the village for as long as we liked. From that moment on, the trip took on a completely different spirit: unhurried, unconstrained.
Most tourists visiting Japan choose spring with its cherry blossoms or autumn with its golden and red leaves. I, however, arrived during what is considered the "worst time of year," when most of the leaves had already fallen and winter was just beginning. I practically chose a day to go at random, and surprisingly, it happened to be the day the first snow of the season fell in Kyoto.
The fishing village of Ine on a winter morning stands out with its centuries-old wooden roofs.
As we got closer to Ine, the roadsides were gradually covered in the white of freshly fallen snow. The Vietnamese driver was still amazed, as just a few days earlier the weather had been sunny and dry. When we finally set foot in the village, the mountain chill seemed insignificant. Before us was a pristine, silent landscape, so beautiful it surpassed all our initial expectations.
The seagulls' welcome
In Ine, there are boat tours around the bay to see the village from the sea. We were among the first in line to buy tickets that day. As the boat started to leave the dock, more and more seagulls appeared, circling around, some even boldly perching right next to the window, as if "begging for food".
The tame seagulls circle around the boat, becoming indispensable companions on every tour of Ine Bay.
Amidst the crystal-clear sea, the sky blanketed in white snow, birds soaring in the air, and in the distance, wooden houses faintly visible through the falling snow—the scene was so beautiful it felt like stepping into a real-life fairy tale. No one said much, just silently gazed and marveled. For me, this was perhaps the most unexpected and wonderful moment of my entire trip to Japan.
After more than 20 minutes floating on the water, feeding the seagulls and enjoying the peaceful scenery, we returned to land and walked deeper into the village. It was New Year's Day, so many houses were closed, making the village even quieter, with only the sound of the wind and gentle waves lapping against the shore.
If you've ever visited many ancient villages in Japan, you'll notice that Ine has a very different feel. There are no crowded streets, no rows of souvenir shops, or pre-arranged "check-in" spots. Ine is like a village still living its traditional life, slow and peaceful, seemingly unaffected by tourism.
The most distinctive feature of Ine is its funaya (houseboats) – the iconic symbol of Ine. These two-story wooden houses are situated right at the water's edge, facing directly out onto the bay. The first floor is used for mooring and storing boats, while the second floor is the living space for the fishermen. There is no clear boundary between the house and the sea, between human life and nature. To this day, more than 230 funaya houses remain almost perfectly preserved.
Funaya houseboats – a unique symbol of the Ine region – feature a distinctive two-story structure: the first floor serves as a mooring place for fishing boats, while the second floor is the living space.
Walking along the small path bordering the village, I felt as if time slowed down with each step. Everything in Ine was so gentle: the soft sound of waves lapping against the houses, the wind rustling through the old wooden roofs, and occasionally the sight of a local quietly repairing a boat or sweeping the porch. No one was in a hurry, and no one tried to create anything special; it was this very simplicity that made Ine so unique.
One of my favorite moments here is sitting in a small café renovated from a Funaya houseboat. The café is right by the sea, with glass windows opening onto the calm water. I order a hot coffee, sit by the window, and quietly watch the boats drift by and the snowflakes falling outside. I don't need to do much, I don't need to talk, just sit there and feel. The feeling is so peaceful that I forget I'm in a tourist spot; it feels more like visiting a familiar home somewhere far away.
Unlike the ancient yet bustling Kyoto, Ine emerges as a rare haven of tranquility. There are no shopping malls, no large stores, and no crowds of people. Just wooden houses nestled between mountains and the sea, and a pace of life slow enough for one to pause and listen to oneself.
Ine isn't a destination to just "visit briefly," but rather a place to linger a little longer – to breathe in the sea air, to stroll slowly up the small slopes, and to let everything in your heart naturally calm down.
From Kyoto, visitors can reach Amanohashidate by train. The most popular option is to take the JR Limited Express Hashidate or the JR Kyoto Tango Railway to Amanohashidate, then take a local bus for about an hour to Ine (check bus schedules beforehand as there aren't many buses). For groups of 3-5 people, renting a private car or driving yourself is more convenient and offers more flexibility, with a travel time of about 2-2.5 hours. Alternatively, you can book a day tour from Kyoto, which often combines visits to Amanohashidate and Ine.
Along Ine Bay, there are many ryokans (traditional Japanese inns) and small guesthouses run by locals. Some rooms offer direct views of the water and the "funaya" (traditional Ine-style houseboats). Reservations are recommended, especially during peak seasons (cherry blossom season, autumn foliage, and crab season). For a truly immersive fishing village experience, an overnight stay is recommended – early mornings and sunsets are the most beautiful and peaceful times in Ine.
Ine captivates travelers with the simplicity of the fishing nets drying in front of the houses and the quiet demeanor of the local people diligently going about their daily lives.
Ine is a genuine fishing village, not a "staged" tourist spot, so its cuisine is closely tied to the daily fishing season and local seafood resources. Menus at small eateries along the bay often change depending on the catch of fishing boats arriving each morning.
The cuisine at Ine is closely tied to the rhythm of the day's catch, from slices of fresh fish sashimi to the renowned winter delicacy, Tango snow crab.
Dishes you should try include fresh seafood sashimi, with freshly caught fish boasting a sweet and firm texture; kaisendon (rice bowl topped with raw seafood) or teishoku seafood sets presented in a family-style setting; Tango snow crab – a famous winter delicacy from the northern Kyoto coast, with its rich, sweet, and firm meat; and various traditional dried squid and fish often dried right on the porch overlooking the bay. In addition, don't miss Ine sake, brewed using local methods, with a light and easy-to-drink flavor, especially suitable for pairing with seafood.
If you visit in winter, the snow crab is the most worthwhile culinary experience. In summer, the menu is more diverse with a wider variety of fresh, seasonal fish and seafood.
