The American Southwest and the Hoodoo Forest of Bryce Canyon
23/09/2019
In my twenties, I never dreamed of the American dream because in my mind, I only pictured a country full of boring high-rise buildings, crowded roads and strange people. But one fine day, fate and work brought me here. Everything about America rushed before me, telling me to stop imposing my prejudices on a land I had never set foot on.
The Wild West
Indeed, America is not what I imagined. The cramped streets of my imagination have been replaced by wide, straight avenues. American culture is a bit different from Europe, but most of the people I met were kind. And the skyscrapers are not so suffocating. And compared to the vast nature around them, they are like small islands in the vast ocean.
At first sight, the lush green patches of high mountains, deep forests, rolling plains, interwoven with colorful deserts, awakened in me an adventurous soul. I told myself, if there was a place in the world that was suitable for endless wandering, it would probably be this country. At that moment, I knew I would return one day.
And I did. Almost immediately. I chose the Grand Circle in the southwestern United States for a three-week road trip. At that time, I had never traveled far, just wandering between a few bustling cities and quiet villages. So that road trip was the starting point, paving the way for me on the journeys that would follow.
The desert is vast, dry and desolate.
Through American cowboy movies, the four words "Wild West" have become familiar to many generations. But only when I actually set foot here, I could feel the wildness and loneliness of this land. It is a vast desert, arid and deserted, completely different from the richness of the eastern plains. Over an area of millions of square miles, large cities are scattered, interspersed with small villages, with only a few dozen to a few hundred wooden houses. When night falls, the roads connecting the small villages are immersed in a dark space. At that time, I am alone, facing the cold night, with the distant and near echoes of nocturnal animals and a starry sky like in a dream.
Sunrise at Bryce Canyon
Bryce Canyon was in the middle of my three-week journey through the Western Desert. Bryce Canyon, located in Utah, covers an area of 145 km² and is one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States, with a landscape that is quite different from the surrounding desert. The bright orange rock columns, often called hoodoos, are the result of millions of years of water freezing on the surface of the rock layers, forming cracks. Rainwater flows through these cracks and over the years erodes them into stone columns tens of meters high. The columns stand close together, creating the unmistakable beauty of one of the most famous national parks in the United States.
The bright orange rock pillars are commonly called hoodoos.
I still remember the moment the sun rose, the rays of light passing between the fiery red stone pillars, it was truly wonderful.
Hiking down Bryce Canyon
Despite its name, Bryce Canyon is not a canyon, but a series of giant natural amphitheaters on the east side of the Paunsaugunt Plateau in Utah. A paved road runs along the highest slopes of Bryce Canyon, at elevations ranging from 8,000 to 9,000 feet. Along the road are a series of scenic viewpoints, located next to the tourist parking lots. From these viewpoints, as the sun rises in the east, one can enjoy watching the hoodoos glow orange and yellow, the cold morning light piercing through the forest of stone pillars.
Viewpoints are clearly marked on the map, and they are often the start and end points of short hikes down into the valley floor. Bryce Canyon hikes are short and easy, most only take a few hours to half a day, making them suitable for both young people and families with small children.
Lots of beautiful view points along the way
The deeper you go down, straight into the forest of stone pillars, the more enchanting Bryce Canyon becomes. Here, the space is so quiet and silent. Many times I wonder, if I just stop for a moment and listen, will I be able to recognize the whispers of the ancients in the legend?
Standing in the middle of the desert of Bryce Canyon, watching the first rays of sunlight rise from the green mountains on the horizon, I felt so small. The vastness and vastness of nature changed me every day. I overcame my initial fears, fear of deserted roads, the dark sky, and even nocturnal predators, and gradually I grew up. I enjoyed immersing myself in the sunrise and sunset, in front of the majestic and ever-changing landscapes. That space was so vast and generous. This land helped me realize my American dream, the dream of freedom and adventure on long, open roads.
Suggestions for a Day in Bryce Canyon
1. Watching the sunrise
As mentioned above, you definitely cannot miss the sunrise in Bryce Canyon. It is the most beautiful time of the day here. Of all 13 viewpoints on Route 63 that runs along Bryce Canyon, Sunrise, Sunset or Inspiration Point will give you the most glorious sunrise. From Sunset Point, you can look to the left to see Sunrise Point and Queen's Garden trail; look to the right to see Navajo Loop Trail and Silent City, and further away to Inspiration Point and Bryce Point.
Sunrise at Bryce Canyon is the most beautiful time of day
2. Hiking
After watching the sunrise at Sunset Point, try a short hike to get closer to the hoodoos and appreciate their beauty. Bryce Canyon hiking maps are available free of charge at the visitor center in the park.
Of Bryce's hiking trails, the Queen's Garden Trail (just over 1.5 miles) and Navajo Loop Trail (2.2 miles) are the easiest. If you have more time, you can combine both trails into a 2.8-mile loop, which takes about 2.5 to 3 hours.
If you combine the Queen's Garden trail and Navajo Loop trail, you can start from Sunrise Point or Sunset Point. But in my opinion, the route starting from Sunrise Point is easier. The hoodoos of Bryce Canyon connect to each other in winding paths like in the jungle. That's probably why Ebenezer Bryce (who named Bryce Canyon after himself) said: "It's a miserable thing to lose your cow here." Hiking in the desert is hot and dry, so don't forget to bring enough water and some food.
You should try a short hike to get closer to the hoodoos.
3. Drive along Panoramic Road
It would be a shame to come to Bryce Canyon without seeing all the viewpoints here, especially when they are located right on the main road, you can drive all the way there. The 25 km distance from Fairyland Point to Yovimpa Point is very beautiful, you should not miss it. The viewpoints are all on the left side of the road if you go from the entrance, so it is much more convenient to drive all the way to Yovimpa Point and stop to admire the scenery on the way out.
The view points at Bryce Canyon are located right on the main road, within driving distance.
More information
Time:The Grand Circle has mountainous and desert terrain, and the weather is quite harsh. Spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) are the two best seasons to road trip.
Entrance fee: National parks and reserves, including Bryce Canyon, all have a certain entrance fee, from 5 to 10 USD. This fee can be calculated per person or for everyone in the vehicle. If your itinerary includes about 5 or 7 national parks, reserves, or structures, you should buy an American The Beautiful Pass for 80 USD, valid for 1 year from the date of purchase and effective immediately upon payment. This card is valid in all areas under the management of the US government (not including each state or Native American), and covers 1 vehicle and 7 people.
Reference cost:
- Round-trip airfare from Vietnam: 800 - 1,000 USD/ticket
- Hotel: 50 - 100 USD/day
- Food: 10 - 20 USD/person/meal
- Rent a 5-seat car with driver: 40 - 50 USD/day
- Total cost is about 5,600 USD/2 people for a 3-week trip
