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A dream come true
At first, when my best friend told me about her dream of conquering the Mongolian steppes on horseback, I laughed and thought to myself, "Wow, that's amazing, but also incredibly far-fetched!" But then, every time we met, she would talk endlessly about her journey, about the information she had gathered, and it sounded so fascinating and realistic. It didn't seem as far-fetched as I had once thought.
Gradually, I, along with my two friends, became unknowingly drawn into that "wild dream." Together, the four of us turned our shared dream into reality in the fall, marking our 40th birthdays in spectacular fashion.
Even now, I still remember the feeling of galloping across the vast prairie, surrounded by the colors of autumn and close to the clouds. It was such a feeling of exhilaration, so boundless!
From a Knight Apprentice
Registering and paying a deposit six months in advance for the tour, despite having no prior knowledge of horses or horseback riding, was a testament to our determination for this trip. We started researching where to learn horseback riding in Saigon, but with the city practically overflowing with traffic, where could we possibly find a place to ride? Should we really go all the way to Da Lat? Luckily, there was a horse riding school in District 2, primarily catering to children of foreigners living in Vietnam. So, for those six months, every weekend, we gathered there to learn how to be horse riders.
From the basics like leading horses, feeding them, and holding the reins correctly, to mounting and dismounting, everything was new to us. We were excited as we gradually learned to control and manage the horses, from walking slowly and trotting to galloping and jumping over hurdles. Most importantly, we learned to "communicate" with them using body language, such as gripping their manes to signal a gallop, nudging their flanks to encourage them to run faster, or patting their hindquarters to praise and thank them.
The bruises, the falls, the aches and pains gradually subsided. Instead, there was joy and excitement at learning new skills. As the departure date drew closer, we felt more confident, ready both physically and mentally to conquer the Mongolian steppe.
To the true knight and new friends
After days of waiting, the trip officially began. The destination was Gorkhi Terelj National Park, located east of the capital Ulan Bator. Covering an area of over 2,800 square kilometers (larger than Ho Chi Minh City) and situated at an altitude of 1,600 meters above sea level, the park is famous for its majestic mountain scenery, towering granite rock formations with unique geological structures and shapes. Interspersed are vast grasslands full of wildflowers and endless pine and cypress forests.
Besides nomadic families, the park is also home to countless species of birds and animals, mainly weasels, squirrels, wolves, and foxes. Our 8-day trip only covered a very small part of the park, but it was enough to experience the beauty and wildness of Mongolian nature.
After a day of free time exploring the capital Ulan Bator, we were picked up by van and taken to the Darkhid Valley, about 40 km from the city center. There, we met the other members of the group, including four other tourists (a Japanese woman, an American woman, and a Belgian couple). Keith and Sabrina, owners of the Stonehouse travel company, were also the main guides for the tour, and two Mongolian men were in charge of horse care and logistics for the trip.
We got to know each other quite quickly and realized that the four of us were the least experienced horseback riders in the group. After a brief introduction to Gorkhi Terelj National Park, safety regulations, environmental protection guidelines, and the upcoming 8-day itinerary, we began receiving our personal equipment and packing our luggage from suitcases into plastic bags for transport by the pack horses.
The moment of suspense and excitement finally arrived when we met our new traveling companions. Mongolian horses, with their neatly trimmed manes, glossy coats, and sturdy bodies, were peacefully grazing in the shade of the trees. Horses were assigned to each person according to their height, skill, and experience. My friend, Zay, was the most "handsome" horse in the group because of his impressive golden-brown mane. He was also known for being calm, well-behaved, and obedient.
The first two days were quite difficult as we were still getting used to our new companions. What we had learned at school were only very basic skills. In addition, we had never ridden a horse continuously for more than two hours, only practicing in a small yard. Here, we sat on horseback all day, for 6-8 hours. The world was vast, the path was winding uphill and downhill, through forests, and across streams. Maintaining balance on horseback while climbing and descending steep mountain slopes was incredibly stressful and exhausting. My body ached after the first two days, as I hadn't yet found a good posture on horseback. My friend Zay was a wonderful guy, very well-behaved and gentle with someone as inexperienced as me. There were times when I let him choose his own path when I myself was unsure how to get through.
Day by day, my body gradually adapted to the new conditions. Although the pain didn't completely disappear, I felt more comfortable, more relaxed, and began to confidently enjoy the scenery with Zay. We had moments of joy and exhilaration as we trotted through endless pine forests or galloped across vast grasslands; and moments of tension and concentration as we traversed muddy paths, climbed steep mountain slopes, or crossed large rivers where the water level reached above Zay's waist.
Throughout the journey, Zay never disappointed me. We also became closer and understood each other better. I knew he liked the grass next to the red wildflowers, so I proactively veered off the trail to find them. He seemed to know I liked to stop and take pictures, so every time I held on tight, he would stand still and steady. When we needed to gallop, he and I were always at the back of the group, partly because he wasn't as fast as the others, and partly because I liked capturing images of the whole group and didn't want to push him to go faster.
I feel incredibly lucky to have such a trustworthy and like-minded travel companion like Zay, who makes me feel like a true knight.
Live a nomadic life, fully immersed in the vibrant colors of autumn.
I've traveled to many places around the world in autumn, but experiencing autumn on horseback in a setting almost completely isolated from the outside world was a completely different feeling. (Never before had the autumn scenery been so vast, stretching as far as the eye could see, unobstructed by anything. Towering pine forests on the mountainside blended with the clear blue sky and white clouds, creating a perfect backdrop that highlighted the wildflowers with their yellow, orange, and red hues below.)
We thought the autumn scenery would become boring after spending eight days just in the national park. However, each day brought new surprises as the natural landscape changed with every step. Once, the horses galloped through a field of reeds, the reeds swaying in the wind, creating a breathtaking scene. Another day, we decided to race across a vast meadow. While everyone else had already started, my horse Zay and another horse absolutely refused to gallop, instead leisurely making their way to a nearby patch of tender grass and devouring it with great enthusiasm, despite our urging.
There were also days when we tied our horses at the foot of the mountain, climbed a high peak, and gazed at the panoramic view of the valley, a vibrant symphony of colors. The most fun was when the group of horses encountered a park patrol checking papers as usual; we joked among ourselves that we were probably going to be stopped for speeding!
For the first time in my life, I was so close to nature, gaining some understanding of the nomadic lifestyle of the Mongolians. Eight days without electricity, telephone, or internet, I rode my horse around in the mornings and returned in the evenings to find a flat patch of land by the river to set up camp and pitch my tent.
My favorite moment of the day is living slowly each early morning. Waking up to the biting cold wind as I step out of the tent, slowly watching the thin layer of frost on the tent roof gradually melt in the early morning sun, then opening my lungs to breathe in the fresh mountain air, brewing a cup of hot tea, and listening to the birds singing and the gentle murmur of the nearby stream. Those moments are so precious, and sometimes, in modern life, I never notice them.
Bathing and personal hygiene in this wild natural environment was a huge challenge for us. I still remember the shivering feeling of wading into the icy stream to bathe after a "record" three days without bathing. "Nature" as a way of relieving ourselves was our playful way of enjoying the natural scenery. More importantly, we always carried a lighter to burn the used toilet paper and waited to make sure it burned completely without any embers. It was a simple but effective way to protect the environment because otherwise, in just a few years, this park would become a giant mountain of garbage.
The fifth day of our journey was the happiest, as we got to stay in a yurt – a traditional Mongolian dwelling, with comfortable beds and a fireplace inside. Never before had I felt so happy simply to have a proper hot bath, something so commonplace in modern life.
And only experiences that transcend ordinary boundaries like these help us understand that nomadic life is not just about breathtaking natural scenery. It is truly a harsh environment only for those who know how to appreciate and cherish what they have.
Additional information
+ Visa:
- The procedure for applying for a Mongolian visa is not too difficult. The only important thing is that you must have an invitation letter from Mongolia. If you are on a tour, this is an invitation letter provided by the travel company (as in our case). If you are traveling independently, you can obtain one through a service at a cost of approximately 30-50 USD per invitation letter.
- The application process is quite simple, requiring only a passport, a 3x4 cm passport-sized photo, a visa application form (available at the Embassy), and a fee payment receipt (after depositing the fee into the Embassy's Vietcombank account). Applications can be submitted to the Mongolian Embassy in Hanoi or the Mongolian Consulate in Ho Chi Minh City. The processing time is one week, and the tourist visa is valid for 90 days from the date of issue, allowing for single entry.
+ Journey:
- The flight from Vietnam to Ulan Bator takes 8-12 hours, but there are currently no direct flights; you have to transit in Hong Kong, China, or South Korea. We bought tickets from Cathay Pacific, transiting in Hong Kong, because it was the flight with the most reasonable travel time and the cheapest fare at the time, around 705 USD/round trip.
Other airlines you could choose from include Mongolian Airlines, Air China, or Korean Air.
Essentials for an expedition on horseback:
- The autumn weather in Mongolia has a large difference between day and night, with both hot and cold spells. Furthermore, since all our transportation was by horse, packing and selecting essential but lightweight items took quite a lot of time.
- The equipment provided by the tour company for each traveler includes a helmet; a water bottle; a three-compartment bag for daily necessities, which each person will carry on their horse; and an 8kg plastic bag for personal belongings for the entire trip. These bags will be collected and transported separately by pack horses along with sleeping bags and tents.
+ Personal items to bring:
Long pants and a long-sleeved shirt, with a slight stretch to allow for easy mounting and dismounting of the horse and also to prevent scratches when passing through bushes.
Trekking or hiking clothes are suitable. Heat-tech sleepwear is also recommended because the temperature can drop below 0°C at night.
Flat-heeled boots (they don't need to be professional riding boots, but they must have a heel, not too high to hold onto the stirrups)
Gloves to prevent scratches from holding the reins continuously.
Socks: made of linen, both warm and lightweight. Lightweight jacket, rain suit with separate pants and jacket.
Hat, multi-purpose scarf (can also provide sun protection when needed), sunscreen.
Sandals for wearing at night while camping.
Headlamps are more convenient to use.
+ Other items:
A camera and plenty of spare batteries (enough for 8 days); personal hygiene items; insect repellent; tea, coffee, and dry food.
+ Cost of the trip:
The total cost for the 10-day trip was $3,800, of which $2,950 was for the 8-day horseback riding tour at Gorkhi Terelj Park and $705 for round-trip airfare. The remainder was for other personal expenses.
