The vibrant heart of Africa

28/02/2019

Driven by the adventurous spirit of youth, I set foot on the soil of Burundi. If anyone were to ask what it takes to visit the smallest, poorest place in Africa, for me, the first thing is courage. Living in Burundi gave me the opportunity to experience this unique African culture firsthand, and provided me with profound insights into the daily lives of the local people. Unbeknownst to me, Burundi, in my eyes, has become a shimmering, memorable place…

Burundi is a small country but rich in cultural traditions.

The vast cultural differences might make you hesitant when someone mentions the idea of ​​going to Africa. But the incredible experiences in this wild land will reward your courage. Africa will become a symbol of a peaceful and tranquil land when you picture it through Burundi, a country brimming with smiles.

I have a habit of researching the history of any country I visit, and Burundi is no exception. Before the 15th century, Burundi was united with Rwanda and Uganda. From the late 19th century until 1962, Burundi was under German and Belgian rule. Today, it is known as the Republic of Burundi, with a population of approximately 11 million people across an area of ​​27,834 km². After nearly a hundred years of European rule, Burundians use French in official documents. However, the local Kirundi language is still used in daily communication.

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Because Burundi has a very clear ethnic distinction, upon arriving I easily recognized three main ethnic groups: Tutsi, Hutu, and Twa. Their primary occupation is agriculture, farming, and animal husbandry. Some groups maintain traditional crafts such as handicrafts, weaving, and jewelry making. Although an African country, Burundi has very little wildlife due to soil erosion from forests and hills. Burundi's rich culture is mainly based on local customs and influenced by neighboring countries. Throughout Burundi, the culture of the capital Bujumbura, Gitega province, and Ngozi is implicitly recognized as the main representative variations of the nation. Due to the very low literacy rate, storytelling, fables, and oral poetry are highly encouraged. In addition, the main cultural forms that Burundians are striving to preserve are drum dance and handicrafts.

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Royal Drum Dance Performance Art

In Burundi, there are no schools for arts and culture; cultural preservation is done through hereditary tradition, passed down from father to son. I had the opportunity to visit the ancient home of Baranshakaje, a royal drummer for the last king of Burundi. Standing in a mushroom-shaped thatched hut on Gishora Hill, my guide explained the wooden drums that the Burundians are so proud of. As a modern young person, I was immersed in a different space, a world so unfamiliar to me. Everything became even more fascinating because I am a lover of history and culture. I imagined the glorious ancient scene of Burundian kings in their colorful processions accompanied by the resounding drums. After visiting the traditional drum preservation area of ​​Burundi, I gained a profound understanding of the culture of this country, as well as of East Africa, a region where drumming is a traditional art form.

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In 2014, UNESCO recognized Burundi's drum dance as a World Cultural Heritage. Mr. Baranshakaje is revered by the Burundians as an artisan who played a key role in passing on and preserving the royal drum dance culture. On Gishora Hill, I also saw the D'umuvugangoma tree – also known as Cordia Africana, meaning "drum-making tree." The locals highly value this tree because it is a precious type of wood, unique to it, which produces the beautiful sound for drums. The D'umuvugangoma tree grows deep in the forest and produces a particularly beautiful and resonant sound; drums made from this tree can last for over a hundred years. I excitedly stood next to a local friend to hear about how the people cut down the tree and make drums. They say that large pythons love to live in the canopy of this tree. Therefore, if they want to cut down a D'umuvugangoma tree to make a drum, they must spray a special herbal essential oil compound to repel the python before felling the tree. Because of the many arduous steps involved in making a drum, the local people cherish this traditional cultural practice even more.

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In Burundi, drum dances add solemnity and grandeur to royal ceremonies, coronations, welcoming heads of state, weddings, and other events. The size of the dance troupe varies depending on the scale and circumstances. The drum dance begins with a group of people carrying spears and decorative shields leading the processions, gathering at the performance area, singing and dancing traditional dances. Then, the main group of dancers forms a semicircle, with the largest drum at the center. The drum dance offers a classic and captivating rhythm, symbolizing strength and joyful energy. Interspersed with this heroic and majestic atmosphere is the mystical and alluring quality of a warrior dance, from the costumes to the loud, rhythmic shouts accompanying the resounding drumbeats.

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After watching a drum dance performance at an event attended by the country's president, even as a foreigner, I was deeply moved by the sense of connection, joy, and national unity that the performance conveyed. Watching the drum dance, I witnessed a powerful and moving spectacle: a harmonious blend of dance, poetry, traditional songs, and music. The drum dance troupe consisted of healthy young men, usually fifteen or more, with an odd number. I couldn't contain my emotions; at times I gasped in admiration, and at other times I was startled to see the dancers skillfully balancing and juggling a wooden drum covered in cowhide, weighing approximately 100 kg.

Looking at the handicrafts reveals the identity of Burundi.

I think a country's culture is expressed through many different things, but the simplest is the souvenirs that the country makes to give to tourists. When I first came to Burundi, I often confused the images and handicrafts of Burundi in general with those of other African countries. It's like Vietnamese and Chinese cultures when they go to the West; those unfamiliar with them might mistake them for each other. But after living in Burundi, I realized the unique cultural differences of this land – known as the "heart of Africa" ​​– compared to other African countries.

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What I enjoy most are browsing the handicraft markets; I'm sure to bring home a few pretty things. Among the traditional handicrafts, the lidded baskets woven by Tutsi women are the most popular with tourists. They are made from the roots of sedge, reeds, and banana plants. The dyeing process is quite complex, involving a blend of natural colors from various plants. The baskets look very pretty and are used to hold food, fruit, and spices. You can also find images of these baskets in most paintings depicting Burundian women in their daily lives. But in this poorest country in the world, the handicraft that moved me the most was probably the Christmas nativity scene made from banana tree trunks. Here, Christmas isn't about showing off glittering, industrially produced, sophisticated products, but rather simple nativity scenes made from banana stalks and leaves – the most common plant in Burundi.

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If you're interested in African art, the craft market on Rue Rwagasore in Bujumbura won't disappoint. Within the complex are several small shops selling wooden statues, masks, warrior-style shields, wicker baskets, and other items. A few groups selling fresh flowers and plants also gather there. You can also visit the shops at the National Tourism Office, located along the Prince Memorial Park, to see the handcrafted art.

Burundi is a small country with sparse forests and trees. Aside from birds and monkeys, there are virtually no large or rare animals in its wildlife. The capital city itself borders Lake Tanganyika, which is home to only one crocodile and one hippopotamus. Since then, these two animals have become symbolic figures, often depicted in sculptures on souvenirs, printed on fabrics, and painted.

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Additional information

- TripThere are no direct flights from Vietnam to Burundi. You should fly Kenya Airways; after arriving in Nairobi, the airline will have a 30-minute layover at Bujumbura Airport, the capital of Burundi.

- Means of transportation:The most common modes of transportation are private rental cars, taxis, and buses. However, the vehicles here are quite old, not very safe, and often overcrowded. A word of advice: don't take the bus.

- Currency:Burundi uses the Burundi Franc (BIF) currency; 1 USD is equivalent to approximately 2,600 BIF.

- VisaCurrently, Vietnam does not have an embassy in Burundi. Upon arriving in Burundi, you can apply for a tourist visa at Bujumbura International Airport (the country only has one airport) for a fee of 50 USD. However, in Burundi, requests for additional visas are common; simply politely decline.

- Weather:Burundi has a particularly pleasant climate, with average daily temperatures around 24-26 degrees Celsius. It's sunny, cool, and has little rainfall throughout the year, with the rainy season lasting from August to October. Even if you visit Burundi on rainy days, it's not a problem. Showers in Burundi come and go quickly, leaving the ground dry and free of mud.

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- CuisineBurundi offers diverse and affordable cuisine. You can visit the famous Kiriri Garden Hotel restaurant with its city views or the Ubuntu restaurant, known for its grilled lamb, ribs, and Hawaiian pizza. Drinks start from $5, and food from $15.

- Skin:Burundi is a Christian country, and its people have a fairly liberal, Western-style mindset, so you can wear whatever you want.

- Note

Since Burundi is a relatively small country, you can combine a visit to Burundi with other East African countries such as Tanzania, Kenya, and Congo.

Burundi does not recognize same-sex relationships. The country's harsh laws regarding same-sex relationships carry the penalty of imprisonment or death.

Hoang Mai Linh
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