Coffee in Vietnamese life

10/03/2019

In Vietnam, coffee is not just a drink, it is a way of life. Vietnamese people appreciate and consider drinking coffee an indispensable part of their daily life. In fact, there are probably not many countries in the world that have a rich coffee drinking culture like the Vietnamese.

For a long time, the slight bitterness on the tip of the tongue, along with the rich aroma that coffee creates, has always made us ecstatic and intoxicated. People enjoy coffee while working, meeting partners, chatting with friends, relatives… and even when alone.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF COFFEE

In the 19th century, the French invaded Vietnam and brought many Western cultural features into the colony, including coffee. Through many historical ups and downs, coffee still has a firm place in the lives of Vietnamese people.

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The thick, dark, bitter, yet refreshing drink was popular with many people at that time, especially the feudal officials and aristocrats. There was a time when drinking coffee was a measure of a person's sophistication and class.

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In Vietnam, the Central Highlands is considered a fertile land associated with coffee trees. This place has been exploited and become the largest coffee growing region in the country with top quality coffee. There are many big producers here, most notably Trung Nguyen, Vinacafe and Highlands Coffee. Besides, some international names including Nestle, which has been involved in the coffee industry in Vietnam since the economic opening period in the 1990s.

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Since the early 20th century, coffee production has been a major contributor to the country’s economic growth. By the late 1990s, Vietnam was second only to Brazil in coffee production. However, production was primarily focused on Robusta beans. In recent years, there has been more focus on improving coffee quality with the widespread cultivation of Arabica beans, and in particular the famous civet coffee.

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How do Vietnamese drink coffee?

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The way coffee is roasted, brewed and enjoyed in Vietnam is different from the rest of the world. Here, coffee is roasted slowly by hand for 15 minutes at low temperature while in the rest of the world, machines are used for the roasting process. More differently, coffee in Vietnam is poured into a filter to brew instead of the coffee machine that is common in the world.

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Before, during and after work, Vietnamese people often drink a cup of nau (coffee with condensed milk) or den (black coffee). In the North, when winter comes, people often have nau nong or den nong. But in general, den da (iced black coffee) and especially nau da (iced coffee with condensed milk) are the more popular choices. When the French colonists first introduced coffee to Vietnam in the late 19th century, because fresh milk was not available, the French and Vietnamese started using sweetened condensed milk instead. Gradually, this special ingredient became a signature when mentioning Vietnamese coffee.

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One of the most famous coffee variations among both locals and international tourists is egg coffee. This is a drink made from coffee (coffee vối) with chicken eggs (with honey added) and sweetened condensed milk. "Giang Coffee" is the oldest and most famous coffee shop in Hanoi that serves this drink. According to the current owner of the shop, egg coffee was born in the 1950s in Hanoi, stemming from the scarcity of fresh milk at that time, so his father, the first owner of the shop, used egg yolks as an alternative, later, this became a specialty of Hanoi.

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Egg coffee looks a lot like a cappuccino, with a mixture of eggs and milk whipped into a light, creamy foam. Many cafes now add a version of egg coffee with butter and cheese to "strange" this already familiar drink.

"toad" coffee culture

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When talking about Vietnamese coffee, it is impossible not to mention the "toad" coffee culture. The word "toad" is used to describe coffee shops nestled on the sidewalk with small tables and chairs just enough to sit. And every time a police officer passes by, these "mobile" coffee shops "jump, jump and jump". This somewhat humorous image has unexpectedly become a unique coffee drinking culture, deeply imprinted in the minds of Vietnamese people for many generations. As a typical signal, people can see a civil servant in neat clothes sitting next to a motorbike taxi driver in loose clothes every time they enter "toad" coffee shops.

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On many streets in Saigon and Hanoi, it is not difficult to come across nameless coffee shops with a few wooden chairs arranged haphazardly enough for people to sit or use as tables for a couple of cups of coffee. Vietnamese people love "street" coffee not only because of the affordable price, friendliness, and convenience, but also mostly because of the habit and need to gather information. People can sit for hours, sipping coffee with friends, even strangers, just to chat a few stories...

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And whether in luxury shops, on quiet street corners or on busy streets, when sitting with a cup of coffee, people still unconsciously calm their hearts.

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Now, when the "big guys" in the world's coffee industry are coming to Vietnam, people are worried about the decline and disappearance of authentic Vietnamese coffee. However, one thing can be believed that anything that is attached to culture and history is hard to shake before "strange but quickly forgotten flavors", especially when the rich, thick, and distinctive drink of the Vietnamese people is so attractive and unique.

Nga Nguyen
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